OEM parts vs. aftermarket parts. It's a complicated story, it seems

Some of those OEM Ford tires look like little more then airbags,I remember the tires that came standard on a new Escort wagon and a new Focus,wasnt hard to upgrade from there,these Ford products have pretty much soured me on Ford Autos in the foreseeable future.Ford trucks may be a different story,have to wait and see how the 2015s are.Hopefully Kelsey Hayes doesnt make Ford brakes anymore,I dont like to take a dig at manus,but I know Ford would have sold more trucks if they would have had more reliable brakes-Kevin

I want to echo what Same Mountainbike said.

The parts supplied to an OEM have to go through a rigorous qualification program before being accepted - and that includes tires. Put another way, the vehicle manufacturers don’t buy the cheapest products out there. They buy what meets their specs and their purchasing department beats the price down. So contrary to popular opinion, the OEM’s don’t buy cheap tires. They happen to be cheap (for them) because they buy so many and they get shipped to the same place on a regular schedule (The logistics departments love those kind of arrangements.)

So long as the vehicle is in production, the dealers should have the OEM part.

But so should the aftermarket parts outlets. Identifying which part is the OEM part is problematic.

BUT - when the vehicle goes out of production or gets changed such that the part is no longer supplied to the OEM, then all that goes out the window. The parts suppliers may or may not change the part. There’s just no way of telling. Obviously if it looks different, it’s different, but if it looks the same, you still can’t be sure that maybe the materials used are different or the processing is different (such as heat treatment).

So it’s hard to make blanket statements about OEM vs aftermarket parts. But it is likely that the dealer is going to stock either the OEM part or its replacement when the OEM part is no longer available.

Of all the parts you mentioned…Only internal engine parts are made by the auto manufacturer. Everything else is outsourced…And even many internal engine parts are outsourced.

Things like spark-plugs - the aftermarket are the EXACT SAME PART as the OEM plugs (as long as you buy the same brand as the manufacturer does). Shocks/struts - in many cases the aftermarket ones are BETTER then the OEM.

Not sure where you’re buying your bulbs at…but there should be no reason the aftermarket bulb won’t last as long as the OEM bulb. Auto manufacturers do NOT make light bulbs. They are made for them by one of the manufacturers you lists.

As the same mountainbike pointed out…not all aftermarket parts are made the same. I’ve seen a big difference in certain parts from places like ADAP and Pep Boys compared to the local parts store I shop at.

In conclusion…you should NOT have any problems what-so-ever with good aftermarket parts. They should be just as good or better.

My only problem with aftermarket parts has been with “Chinese” made parts. I still have a box of fuses that will melt instead of blowing as a real fuse should. My brother sent a new set of floor mats to the dump because they smelled like a dead water buffalo after a few days. I could go on…but most people know about these parts and avoid them already. I’ve never had a problem with “name brand” aftermarket parts and I’ve been replacing parts for a very long time.

Replaced my very FIRST set of front brakes on my 08 expedition this week…at 100,000 miles.
So, What did I buy to put on next ? …yep, O.E. Ford ( not even Motorcraft ).
The Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator.
The Motorcraft oil comes frome a Conoco refinery.
Ford / Motorcraft does not make their own belt, hoses, bulbs , wipers etc.

Yet I have mechanics who insist only on O.E. engine gaskets.


It’s quite a shell game accross the industry and the hardest part is the massive secrets kept about true sources.
The worst of all ?
transmission fluids !
Which are truly campatable or not ?

Many of the OEM parts ARE the aftermarket parts. KYB and Monroe (Tenneco) are OEM suppliers as are Bilstein, Sachs, Boge (Sachs) and Koni to name a few damper manufacturers. Denso and Bosch are OE suppliers for sensors and sell aftermarket parts. Same for brake suppliers Continental (TRW, Teves and Kelsey-Hayes), and Bosch.

That said, some don’t supply the same quality part to the aftermarket so it can be sold cheaper for a car that won’t last all that much longer.

Some aftermarket parts exceed OEM performance but many don’t. If you can buy $9.95 brake pads and $39.95 pads for the same car, which do you think will be a better part? I call the cheapies “drugstore” auto parts because CVS or WalGreens sell them. Pure junk. Very often you get what you pay for.

Unfortunately, studies have shown that a very large percentage of those Chinese brand tires are crap

I realize that some of major tire brands have tires produced in China

However, I am only talking about the tires sold under a Chinese label

Bottom line is that brand name aftermarket parts are fine and if the OP is going through bulbs on a yearly basis then those bulbs are being done in by something not related to their quality.

It might be noted in regards to Sylvania for instance that they not only manufacture bulbs but also produce the various housings (headlamp, taillamp, etc) that those bulbs go into.

Years ago, when money was tight, I had to put a new fuel pump on my 1954 Buick. The pump at Western Auto was half the cost of a AC fuel pump at NAPA. I installed the Western Auto pump and it worked well–it was still working 50,000 miles later when I sold the car. On the other hand, I tried the Western Auto spark plugs and they were very poor. These Western Auto plugs had twin electrodes and I had trouble within 1000 miles. I finally replaced them with the AC 44 plugs that were specified and had no more problems. I cleaned up the Western Auto plugs and tried them in my lawnmower. The plugs didn’t even work very well there.
I wasn’t very happy with the Firestone tires that came as original equipment on my Toyota Sienna. I kept them inflated and did the rotation every 5000 to 7500 miles and they were worn out after 35,000 miles. The original equipment Goodyear tires on my Chevrolet Uplander made it to 55,000. The battery on the Sienna started outgassing after about a year and the terminals and cable clamps kept corroding. I kept cleaning the terminals and used the spray and red and green rings under the clamps, but I finally bit the bullet and bought a new battery. My advice to Toyota is to equip their products with better tires and batteries.
Today, I leave it to my independent shop to do the work. I don’t know what replacement parts they use, but I’ve had no problems.

OK4450, it’s entirely possible that while they were selling these as Ford replacement bearings, they’re not a supplier to Ford. The aftermarket is well populated with parts from manufacturers that aren’t OEM suppliers. Most are good, but choose not to make the investment in the controls, some aren’t so good.

That gets back to my original point. If it’s a critical part, the best way the average consumer can ensure that the parts will meet the vehicle manufacturer’s standards is to get it from the dealer. The dealer is obligated by their franchise agreement to use only part supplied through the vehicle manufacturer’s supply chain. This does increase cost, often doubles it, and while for the overwhelming majority of parts it isn’t worth the extra cost, for critical items it can be.

Your situation might even emphasize the importance of the suggestion. You have the expertise and equipment to properly check the parts before installation, as well as the knowledge to know how to determine the problem if a part doesn’t fit properly. A lot of backyard guys out there don’t.

Hey Dag, thanks for the compliment, but moving to Florida is much more tempting than moving to Maine! :slight_smile:

My advice to Toyota is to equip their products with better tires and batteries.

New Toyota’s usually have a Panasonic battery. Many consider them to be the BEST battery on the market. You are the first person I ever heard of who had a problem with a Panasonic battery.

I find ALL manufacturers seem to put cheap tires on their vehicles. My Pathfinders came with Bridgestone…which were worn out by 35k miles. My GMC pickup had Continental…and had to replace them at 25k miles. My 4runner came with Dunlaps and only got 40k miles.

@thesamemountainbike those bearings are produced according to Ford specs and they are an OEM supplier to FOMOCO.
That’s what they actually told me while I was on the phone with them. The bearings I buy in a single box are the same ones being supplied to Ford by the truckload.
That bearing manufacturer also provides bearings, valve train parts, and you name it to countless other car manufacturers.

I’ve got another situation going on right now with an engine and won’t go into that one right now. Let’s just say that there’s a Plastigage issue (made by the same company that produces the bearings) and one has to wonder about variances on the Plastigage… :frowning:

The original battery on my brother’s 2008 Toyota barely lasted 4 years

I got the replacement battery at Costco . . . made by Johnson Controls, I believe

Than someone screwed up. What can I say? The one weak link in most chains is human.

It sounds like the company is having problems. I remember back in the mid '80’s visiting a precious metals plating company that was approved to allegedly have controls compliant to NASA5300.4. Not only were the processes completely out of control and the thickness measuring equipment out-of-order and dusty, thickness data was being fudged, adhesion tests were being skipped and required microsectioning wasn’t being done. I even found a half-eaten sandwich on a critical piece of measuring equipment. The company did it’s best to keep my off their production floor. They even offered me a hooker for the afternoon (as God is my witness). This company was bidding to do work for microwave components that were going on the space shuttle. Needless to say, they never plated another part for us. I think I know how the got selected for review… the hooker was gorgeous… for a hooker! I won’t comment on the ethics of our procurement agent…

I can’t say that I know much about the whole parts business but I do find myself buying more OEM parts now than before, just because its hard to know what you are getting otherwise. I also believe that the quality of the parts labeled the same might be different at auto parts houses than places like Walmart. Some years ago I was buying AC plugs at a quality auto parts stores. The clerk mentioned that the same plugs available at places like Kmart just didn’t seem to be the same quality. These were all AC plugs but I just suspect he was right so you can’t even depend on the same quality OEM brand depending on where you buy them.

I also find it perfectly understandable that some aftermarket parts would be more durable than OEM, simply because OEM are designed for the general use of the vehicle. If you are using the vehicle for off road, plowing, etc, I can understand where the OEM parts might be less durable simply because that wasn’t the general purpose the vehicle was designed for. There are trade-offs in everything and a vehicle needs to be designed and built to sell for a particular market.

“New Toyota’s usually have a Panasonic battery.”
@MikeInNH–My Toyota Sienna, purchased new with 4 miles on the odometer, had a Johnson Controls battery. The Sienna was assembled in Indiana, so I suppose the battery came from a U.S. plant.
I have no idea what make battery came with our 2003 Toyota 4Runner. I think it was assembled in Japan, so it may have had a Panasonic battery. I think that battery was in the 4Runner for seven years. I had it load tested before the beginning of a winter season and it was marginal. Since it is the vehicle my wife drives, I wanted it as reliable as possible. Our 4Runner also came with Donlap tires and I think I got about 45,000 miles or so. I did have one blow out on the interstate. I put on the spare (fortunately a full size spare) when the vehicle had about 20,000 miles. Our independent tire dealer had taken in trade Dunlap tires of the right size and same tread depth and had about half the tread left. I think he sold it to me for $20 including mounting.
Our Uplander came with Goodyear tires which gave me better service than the Firestone on the Sienna and my 1990 Aerostar came with Michelin tires. My 1978 Oldsmobile that I purchased new had the infamous Firestone 721 radial tires. I had problems with the tires and couldn’t get a satisfactory adjustment. I left the Firestone dealer and went down the road to a Quality Farm and Fleet store and had Duralon tires (made by Dayton tire and rubber) installed and these tires did very well. I probably should have picked another Sienna that had a different make of tire than Firestone, but I though after 33 years Firestone was over its problem tires. At any rate, the Sienna now has Michelin tires and a Delco battery, so maybe I am good to go for a while.

The last generation Checker which came out about 1956 was made with parts from different manufacturers. The steering gear was Ford as the Checker engineers considered it the most rugged available. The engine was a Continental Red Seal. The transmission was from Borg-Warner. Checkers were made to be durable and reliable which was needed for taxicab service.
In later models, Continental couldn’t supply the engines, so Checker used Chevrolet engines which were also known for durability.

I’ve had good luck w/Sylvania headlight bulbs I purchase at my local chain auto parts store. I purchase the least expensive of the multiple versions they sell. Don’t assume that if it costs more, it will last longer. The ones I use cost less than $15 per bulb for the Corolla, even less for the Ford truck. They seem to last about 7 or 8 years, as long as the OEM versions that came with the car. I make sure to wear gloves when installing the non-sealed-beam bulbs is all I do special.

Spark plugs, I only use one of the brands and part numbers recommended in the owners manual. For replacement parts critical to engine performance – O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, throttle position sensor , MAP sensor – I’ll check what all is available, then I’ll ask here what the experienced pro’s recommend for my particular situation. I’d venture a guess it varies from part to part and car to car, make/model/year.

OEM spark plugs is probably my #1 recommendation. I use NAPA for the rest, though I had one strange experience, put in a new starter motor, dragging and binding, sounded bad, pulled it to take it back, then thought well they should hear how it sounds, put it back in and been working flawlessly 2 years.

My Dad ran a spark plug wire plant back in the late 70’-80’s. They made all of the wires for the big three. The wires were sent to the factories and to be sold at parts stores. The only difference was the color of the wire. Ac, Mopar , Mortorcraft and Prestolite all the same at that time. I say buy what makes you feel good and remember you get what you pay for. Also it’s not the deal you got …It’s the deal you think you got.