Does it have a mode where you let the CVT take over and you can ignore the shifter?
Yes, it is fully automatic. The shifter has two positions for Drive, automatic and manual. In manual, you can use the paddles for shifting, as long as the arrows in the dash say it is OK. Even then, you just change the range, the transmission is still CVT in that range. If you exceed the parameters for that range, it will shift without your input.
In automatic, it will respond to the downshift paddle only and only temporarily.
So you can ignore the paddle shifters and let it shift on it’s own?
That’s the way I drive it.
Oops, I’ve been away from the forum for a day or two. . . SO. . . the consensus seems to be. . . CVT transmissions aren’t proven to be as “robust” as an oldschool automatic transmission? Or so say the seasoned veterans on this forum? (Regular oldschool automatic transmissions seem to be disappearing from vehicles nowadays, its all CVT or [very hard to find] manual transmissions).
Yeah, a few decades ago 4 speed was standard for manual, like my '87 Chevette. Then we got the 5-speed manual. Nowadays, 6 speed manual seems to be the norm. Well, if they’re going to give me that 6th gear, they should make it a “tall” gear for highway cruising for maximum fuel economy . . . . (but who cares what I want. . . I buy a car what, every 10 or 20 years or so, and have YET to buy my first NEW car, so obviously the manufacturers aren’t making their profits off of folks like ME. . . heh heh 
)
The Honda Fit with the CVT has an “econ” mode to increase fuel economy, the manual doesn’t.
I’ve never driven a car with CVT transmission, I understand some of you say it can create the impression of the transmission ‘slipping’ because the engine revs up before the car accelerates.
Hmmm, I don’t know, this is an interesting discussion - some of the posts went over my head, technically speaking- I’m going to at least test drive one with a CVT to “see for myself” as it were.
I’m encouraged by those who say they can ‘beat’ the EPA #'s with a manual transmission, and I’m just confident enough in my skills and technique to believe I can do so as well.
OK, just to ‘change gears’ for a moment, if you’ll pardon my pun. . . Is the following valid logic, OR, am I rationalizing. . .
IF one were to assume a 20 year “Service Life” for a car, and (using ballpark numbers) a 7 year old car cost $13,000 and a brand new one can be bought for $19,000 (I’m talking “on the road” prices here) THEN the brand new car is a better value than the used one.
In the first example, one is buying 13 years of “service life” for $13,000 or $1,000 a year. Buying the brand new car, one is paying $6,000 more for an additional 7 years of “service life”, or $857.14 for each of those years, arguably the BEST 7 years of the car’s service life. Additionally, one gets the new car warranty, the assurance that the car doesn’t have flood or frame damage, and the assurance it hasn’t been neglected / abused for 7 years.
With your numbers, you’re right. But your numbers aren’t consistent. I don’t think a 7 year old car that cost $19,000 new would cost $13,000 after 7 years. Should be less than $10,000. Then it’s the better buy. Depreciation is greater in the early years.
Oh man, I just wrote the most concise post, then it suddenly highlighted and disappeared, I hate these oversensitive touchscreens. Aaarrgh! Gotta remember to click “Save Draft” after every sentence or two. . .
Yes, I agree, a 7 year old car should be less than $10,000. But those aren’t the prices I’m seeing. Granted I’m doing my shopping so far by looking at prices online. I haven’t actually gone toe-to-toe with a sales(person) at a dealership to see how much those prices can be chiseled down. I’m seeing post prices for '08 - '10 cars, 70k - 90k miles, $10,999 - $11,999 figure time you add tax tags title, $299 dealer ‘bs’ fees and whatever else they try to tack on I’m estimating $13,000 by the time you get out the door, of course I could be way off.
Frankly I’m insulted by how much money they want for half used up cars these days. I guess there’s just not much money to be made in the sub-$10,000 used car market.**
Man my original post was so much better, now I can’t get it out of my brain and onto the page. . . darn it!
**Edit to add: yeah I know, there IS big money in the sub-$10,000 used car market, the big money is in the financing (buy here pay here) but that is a different discussion we have from time to time here. Should go without saying (which is why I have to say it) I am a cash buyer.
I built a 2016 Honda Fit on the Honda website, configured how I want it with the accessories I want (within the confines of what you can order on that car) and the printout says Total MSRP as built $17,709. That includes “destination”, but it says “Installation cost for accessories is not included”. Of course the $17,709 is what is referred to as the “Insult Price” and I assume that can be chiseled down a little. Add in 6% state sales tax, title I think is $25 or maybe $50 now. $135 or $168 for registration. I believe I could make it out the door for just under $19,000 or preferably $18,500. 'course if the manuals are hard to find and they realize I want one they won’t want to negotiate. My advantage is I live in a major metropolitan area and there are 4 Honda dealerships within a 40 mile radius, so I could make them bid against each other.
Also, from what I hear, when they get you in the so-called “F&I” office is where they really throw everything up to and including the kitchen sink at you. (Extended warranty, VIN etching, nitrogen for the tires, scotchgarding, rustproofing, simonize, turn signal fluid, plaid paint, rubber flag to fly on rainy days, and a bunch of other crap I’m not aware of because its been many years since I’ve dealt with a car dealership. . . )
@Ed Frugal - As obsessive you are it might be entertaining to watch you shop for a coffee maker at Walmart.
Well, I used to drink the instant coffee at home but these days I have the atrial fibrillation and my Doctor tells me to stay away from the caffeine although I do enjoy a Diet Soda from time to time.
I have changed my preferred brands of soap, ice cream, etc on more than one occasion because the product keeps getting smaller. . . . and smaller. Remember when a standard bar of soap was 5 oz? And ice cream came in a half-gallon tub?
"I have changed my preferred brands of soap, ice cream, etc on more than one occasion because the product keeps getting smaller. . . . and smaller. Remember when a standard bar of soap was 5 oz? And ice cream came in a half-gallon tub? "
Don’t get him started on candy bars!
@“Ed Frugal” You mentioned that a couple of decades ago, the four speed manual was standard. When I started driving, the three speed manual with the shifter on the column was standard. If you wanted more forward speeds, you bought a car with the Borg-Warner automatic overdrive. With the overdrive engaged, you had five forward speeds: first, second, overdrive second, third (direct drive),_and overdrive third. Overdrive third was a tall gear ratio for highway driving. To engage that gear, you got the speed up over 28 mph and let up on the accelerator. The transmission would shift to overdrive high.
@“Ed Frugal”
That 1987 Chevette . . . how long did you keep it?
A college roommate had one . . . the fuel tank rusted through :naughty:
As far as beating epa estimates . . . I did that also. On my 1995 Corolla 5speed, I typically got 37mpg, and I had the ac on all the time. I also had the headlights on at all times, because they would shut off with the key. I did that for visibility, and so I wouldn’t have to remember to turn them on. I never did have to replace the bulbs. I replaced one headlamp because of “road debris” and the other one because some kind of chemical had damaged the lens, and I wasn’t able to buff it out, and it wasn’t putting out much light
I also wasn’t a little old lady type of driver, so all things considered, 37mpg was pretty darn good
I thought I saw a new Toyota Tacoma with a manual on display outside my local Costco. It was an SR5 model. I went over to look at it, it appears that SR5 no longer means 5 speed manual. At least the automatic was a 6 speed.
@“Ed Frugal” I think you are better off with a weaker coffee than a soda, even if it is diet soda. It should not affect the A fib much, check with your doc though.
Have you tried doing an inventory search on edmunds.com for a new manual Fit within a 100 Mile radius of where you live? I ask, because if you found one, you might actually be able to buy it at a low price because most buyers don’t buy manual any more.
Ed, I had rented a honda civic hybrid and I wouldn’t call the sensation a slip. When you push on the gas, you can feel the immediate push behind your back. At least relative to an automatic with a torque converter. It is similar to a airliner taking off. You would hear increase noise and feel the push. And the sound stays constant as the plane speeds up.
But it is not the sensation of slip that I’m concerned with. It is actual slip, in the sense that some parts are sliding past each other while under the huge amount of pressure necessary to create the friction that transmit thrust. It is the nature of the machine and the manufacturers just have to make sure that the transmission doesn’t grind itself to dust while it’s under powertrain warranty.
To put things in perspective, ZF the German company that makes automotive components including transmissions, partnered with ford to build a CVT for the five hundred last decade. Rather than continuing the development of CVT, it released its famous 9 speed automatic for passenger cars.
That Civic Hybrid also had an electric motor to help with the initial ‘push’. Poorly designed CVTs are known for rapid rpm increase, then followed by speed gain. Dodge and Jeep compacts are know for it.
"To put things in perspective, ZF the German company that makes automotive components including transmissions, partnered with ford to build a CVT for the five hundred last decade. Rather than continuing the development of CVT, it released its famous 9 speed automatic for passenger cars. "
And by “famous” do you mean “hated”? Edmunds does.
@“Ed Frugal”, have you and your doctor talked about cardioversion? I had a-fib 3 years ago and my Cardiologist did that procedure on me, the a-fib subsided and it hasn’t returned. I do take one or two drugs to regulate my heart beat too. Bottom line is I feel great. I got the twilight sleep treatment and didn’t feel anything.