Contorting myself to access the passenger compartment fuse box again, I found that the starter fuse is as noted earlier, intact, also has continuity. But there is no power in either of the slots that accept the fuse. I took the ignition harness off the ignition switch (key barrel), used my test light and digital meter to find the following.
----------Run/Start
Red 1 — On/On Red 2 — Off/Off (No response)
Yellow — Off/Off
Pink ----- On/On
Orange - Off/Off
Brown — On/Off
On the ignition switch harness, I tried jumping the Always Hot Red and the other Red, as well as other combinations, but still, no, crank…!
I believe you have a push-on blade connector for the “other Red” connection on the starter. Pull this off and jump from the battery connection to the starter to this blade. This should directly energize the starter solenoid and starter.
It’s not clear which red, yellow, pink wires you are referring to in the schematic above, as there’s multiple wires with that color.
If you mean you jumped with a low resistance connection from the s terminal of the starter motor to the B terminal (where the two red wires that connect directly to the starter motor in the lower left, B being the one directly connecting to the battery, and “s” the one near the word “starter”) and it didn’t crank or at least click, there’s either a problem with
the starter motor itself
the starter motor case isn’t properly grounded to battery ground
bad or no connection from battery to B
Suggest you redo that experiment. If it still wont’ crank that way, that’s the place to focus. Some ideas towards figuring that out
Disconnect the “s” wire from the starter motor and try it that way (as suggested above)
While doing the hard jump, measure the voltage at both B and s, with the negative lead of the meter on the starter case.
Disconnect the battery, and measure the resistance from s to starter case, should be quite low, less than 10 ohms probably.
Try the same experiment with your other starter motor, connect it up on the bench.
Note: Caution is required when jumping high current connections. Sparks, etc. Wear appropriate safety gear.
There are a series of push-on blade connectors within the harness that attaches to the ignition switch (key barrel). I ended up taking this off and then did the jumping I mentioned earlier. I also put my meter to the Always Red Hot and measured full 12.4v, before connecting to the “other Red”, and didn’t get a crank. I guess I could connect “other Red” directly to the battery, would there be much of a difference though?
I did try that again and was able to get the starter to crank. Ive already confirmed that the starter is working though. The problem is getting the key to activate the control side.
Is time a factor in this repair? If so, it sounds like you’d be better off getting some pro help with this.
If you don’t care how long it takes and are just interested in seeing if you can do it yourself, no worries, continue to post your progress. Suggest to expedite the process you post a marked-up version of the schematic with some type of numbered Test Points so it is clear which part of the circuit you are talking about. Be aware of the heat and spark risks when messing around with high current wiring, likewise the potential damage to other circuitry. Some wiring insulation on my Corolla was heat damaged when I was dealing with what turned out to be a faulty starter motor one time. Also be aware that if the starter motor suddenly starts and cranks the engine, the resulting motion could cause the car to fall off the jack-stands.
No time’s not a factor. Id just like to finally get it running. Ive put a lot of time trying to figure out the problem and its getting a bit frustrating.I think I might be closing in on the problem though.
Those colored wires are referring to the Ignition switch harness. The “other Red” wire there is not being energized when key in Start, this I suspect is why there is no power to the starter fuse in the “passenger compartment”(?)
It looks to me like if you take the always hot red and jump it to the yellow wire. This should make the engine crank, but not start. If the engine cranks, the ignition switch is the issue. If it does not, leave the jumper in place and start down the circuit with your voltmeter checking for 12v all along the way. When you lose it, there is your problem.
I have 12.4v at the 86 slot for the relay, but not going into the Neutral Safety Switch, which is strange because I assumed the NSS was working due to reverse lights turning on when in R, and power only provided to 86 when in P & N. Although that last statement suggests that the NSS provides power to the relay and not the other way around. I’m going to have another more thorough look at it in a few mins. I’ll upload a simpler diagram marked with voltages ive measured