Nissan Almera 2000 starting problem


I got Nissan Almera 2000 automatic transmission
And the problem is:
Yesterday the car won’t start so today in the morning I came and jump started the car
Then immediately replaced the battery to a new one.
I parked the car and the car again won’t start
So again ( with a new battery) I jump started the car.
Then drove about 120 km (~ 80 miles)
And now as I parked, the car won’t start,
When I try to ignite the car I hear a single metal click that come from the hood ( I guess from the starter?)
I measured The battery And got 12.89 V

I think it’s not the alternator because If it was the alternator I wouldn’t be able to ride 120 km if the alternator was dead.
Some one can suggest what’s the problem or what more should I check in the car ?

Thank you !!!

No you didn’t get that voltage. A conventional car battery is limited to about 13V. So… Did you measure that voltage while the engine was running? If so that was the alternator’s voltage, not the battery.

I’d suggest checking resistance from the negative terminal to a bare spot on the engine block. Is it more than 10 ohms? Clean the cable connection at each end.

Next check voltage at the large starter lug. Does it match the battery voltage? No? Clean the connections.

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Thank you I will try it now
It’s was a typo I meant 12.89

I’ get the starter checked.

The next time it won’t start, take something like a bat and bang on the starter and then try starting the car.

If it starts, the starter is worn out.


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The starter solenoid contacts are worn. Repeat trying to start the engine, usually after 10 attempts the solenoid becomes warm and make contact.

The click noise indicates the ignition switch and safety switches aren’t likely problems. Suggest to ask shop to measure the voltage on the “s” terminal of starter motor during cranking attempt, (key in start). It should be at least 10.5 volts. I have to say while I’ve suggested this manytimes, I don’t think anyone has ever come back and and reported what the voltage was. Instead, just never hear from them again. I presume when their shop makes that measurement the problem becomes obvious and is easily solved, often just by replacing starter motor.

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Where I live the mechanics don’t know to do a lot except change parts randomly,
So I removed the starter

How can I check what u said ? What is the s terminal?

And how do I know if I can fix this starter or I need to get a new one

cleaned all the ends of the cables that goes from the battery but still car wont start and its make the same noise

Where is that ? Don’t you have a Nissan dealer near you ?

Install the starter in the vehicle, measure the voltage on the cable and small wire while the ignition is in the crank position.

Many years ago General Motors marked their starter motors with an “S” for solenoid and an “I” for ignition, you won’t find that on your starter.

Is there an option to do that with jump cables from the battery and not on the car because it’s a hard access spot(under the engine and behind)

Your vehicle is 22 years old. the starter says Nissan on it. It could be an original starter. (Which would be pretty amazing if it is)
Why not just change it being it is out already and unknown age.


The solenoid, not the starter motor may be the problem. Is it on this starter motor, or is it separate? The copper contacts inside get worn, and don’t reliably complete the 12V to the motor. They can be cleaned up or replaced.

No experience w/your particular car, but presuming it is similar to my Corolla at this point, with starter removed, you could still verify the “s” wire (from the wiring harness) is zero volts with key in anything other than “start”, and close to battery voltage with key in “start”. If not, post back here.

If that test passes, the no-crank problem is likely the starter motor itself. Don’t try to bench test it on your own b/c that procedure could be unsafe, very high power device. Many auto parts stores ( in this area at least) have a starter motor test fixture though, so ask around in your area, maybe one of them will test it for you.

When I do that “s” wire test myself, the starter is installed and connected to the wiring harness. I jack-stand the front of the car and attach a pair of long lead fused wires on the “s” and ground terminals. I connect the other end to a volt meter which I can watch while sitting in the driver’s seat, while I turn the key to “start”. The moving-coil type of volt meter is the best type for this test b/c the voltage varies quite a bit as the starter motor turns.

Fails to crank is a very frustrating problem for a car owner. At this point however I think you’ve made pretty good progress towards the solution.

we do have a Nissan delaer here but usually all the shops will advise just throw parts on the car till something will work,
had a problem about a year and a half ago with my sibilings skoda.
the Skoda delear couldnt find out what it is but proposed to change the battery the gas the gas pump the starter and what so ever, but
George_san_Jose1 here managed to understand the problem was a ambient/temperature sensor in the engine without even seeing the car.

'm not living in the U.S and here most of the auto Shops and mechanic not providing many services that are common and normal in the U.S so most of the thing you proposed i will avoid of doing my self as you said its unsafe.

do you think new starter will solve the problem?
because all the parts are much more expensive here in israel,

i will prefer to do that if im 100% sure that the starter is the problem
because all the parts are much more expensive here in israel,
lets say a starter in U.S will cost 100$ here it will cost 300$

Can you identify the solenoid? It may be an appendage on the side of the starter motor. Or it may be mounted away from the starter with thick wire(s) to the starter. If you take it apart, see the copper contacts and the metal disc that should bridge the contacts when the key is turned to Start. That can all be cleaned up. The contacts can be bent and shaped so they make better contact with that metal disc. Or replace the contacts or the whole solenoid. Good luck!

i cleaned with sand paper the starter and all the inputs before,

i tried do the bench test, and found out,

if i do the full test the pion only pops , no rotate,

if i shorten the starter wire and the main battery cable bolt (+) it rotates REALLY slow

i guess its the starter motor is dead,
but just out of curiosity what has gone bad in the starter motor that its turns that slow

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That usually means the brushes in the starter are worn.


If you can take it to an auto electric shop, they can probably fix it.