New shocks / struts resulting in bouncy ride, can a rear sway bar fix this issue?

I guess you have a real Snafu. LOL

Unlikely, but have you checked the tire pressure? Maybe someone bumped it up too high.

are your shocks adjustable?

Tire pressure is at 31 all around which is within spec.

Shocks are also non adjustable

Are you sure of that ? What does the door plaque read , I think it is 35 PSI .

When I switched from a VW Rabbit to a Corolla, I definitely noticed the VW had a firmer, harsher ride, but held corners well, and the Corolla had a smoother, softer ride, but leaned a little too much in corners. Saying the VW had a more “bouncy” ride is another way to put it.

My guess is that this is a fundamental compromise, and won’t be improved to any significant extent by the OP next modifying the sway bar.

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Front right caster needs attention.
Not officially adjustable, but an experienced suspension tech might know some trick.
Also, rear camber might be addressed with shims.

Having so much toe-in before the strut replacement and now Zero toe. I would think the car would wander more now than before. Tire wear will improve but straight line will wander, maybe add a little toe-in.

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I’ve seen many good aftermarket products that really helped improve the ride of a vehicle. But @Mustangman is correct. The engineers who designed the vehicle know a lot more about it then most of the on-sellers.

I think you can make improvements, but not too drastic. Trying to turn a good computer vehicle into a race car is going to be difficult and expensive. There’s a lot more to it then adding new shocks and springs and tires. If you wanted a race car it would be cheaper to buy one.

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Yeah, I think it’s important to take a balanced approach when we talk about this stuff. Yes, the OEM engineers know more about the car’s setup than anyone else, but you have to consider their intended mission for the car, too. A Honda Civic’s mission is to be a daily driver/commuter car. If the end user wants it to be an autocross demon, they’re gonna have to make some changes away from what the OEM engineers did.

The trick then becomes wading through all the marketing BS and the, often deeper, BS that you find on enthusiast forums, to figure out which hardware you should buy to accomplish your mission.

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Very good comments…

While you CAN improve handling performance, you WILL pay a price in terms of ride quality. Compromises must be made.

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One fact I’ve realized, after reading about all the various “performance upgrades” that people make on their otherwise perfectly adequate cars:

At the end of the day, the only thing you know for sure is your bank account is that much “lighter”. And somebody else has that money.

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