Torque steer is minimized, if not eliminated by making the half shafts equal length and designing the steering axis to pass close to the center of the tire contact patch. And to minimize movement in that steering axis when turning the wheel. 2 front lower ball joints per side on 2 lower suspension links are very helpful which is why we are seeing that more and more.
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Actually the OP wants to “correct” the torque steer on his car at 129,000 miles.
Yep, I had a Dodge Omni based vehicle with the 2.2, lots of torque steer.
When I took driver’s education our school was provided new Oldsmobiles, one was a first generation Toronado. But as students we did not have the opportunity to hit the gas hard enough to experience torque steer, if any. Now I wonder what our instructor did when on his own with that car. One of the customers at the gas station I worked at had the same 66 Toronado, when he pulled out, he smoked both front tires for nearly a block.
We had a Duster 340 w/manual transmission nobody else wanted to drive. So I always got dibs on it. We had a reasonable sized parking lot at the school but not outrageous. Still managed to lay some stripes down with it once in a while… oops, just learning 
That car had a very good FWD design. The engine was located front-rear, not sideways, so it had equal length driveshafts and a double A-arm front suspension with the geometry pretty nicely worked out. Torque steer with that much torque would put you in the weeds pretty quickly.
I had a 1971 Saab 99 with a similar layout… not like the 1.7 liter 4 cylinder had much torque! … It did not torque steer at all.
… unlike my '81 Chevy Citation! This was GM’s first foray into small FWD cars, and–IIRC–the drive shafts were not of equal length. The Iron Duke may not have had a whole lot of torque, but when taking-off quickly with this stick shift, I discovered–for the first time–what torque steer was.
I don’t recall any of my subsequent FWD vehicles suffering from torque steer.
Customer had a very modified 1984(?) Lebaron 2.2 turbo running 19 1/2 psi boost 5 speed manual, talk about torque steer… lol
BTW, it was quicker in the 1/4 mile than a stock ZR1 and Mustang SVT w/supercharger (add-on)… It was stupid when the boost kicked in at 3K rpms…
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I test drove an Omni GLH turbo… That car DEFINED torque steer!
Once it hit boost it dove for the curb. Scary car. Nothing I have ever driven was as bad as that car. Even a turbo Pontiac Sunfire. One year’s version was lazy off the stop but them jumped forward when the boost hit. The next year had a very loose torque convertor that brought boost on so quickly it was hard to leave a stoplight without spinning the tires! Torque steer was manageable though.
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But, aside from the TSB poster above, I would not think an old Nissan with factory torque steer can be cured with aftermarket parts.
My opinion the OP needs to get this car into the hands of a professional.
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The car has torn lower control arm bushings, not “torque steer”.
He was counting on your professional help.
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I did not say his Nissan has torque steer. I said after 129,000 miles he should know the difference. I wasn’t that blunt, but I guess I needed to be.
He first posted Oct 2023.
He wants to know how to fix it. That’s why after this much time I suggested taking it to a professional.
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Better than diving for oncoming traffic!
What’s with all the cars nowadays designed to pull left?
lower control arms on murano replaced…good as new now
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They would pull left or pull right… completely randomly!
They aren’t designed that way and none of my cars ever did unless the alignment or the tires were bad.
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Ever hear of compensating for road crown?
Having a shorter wheelbase on one side of the car can cause a pull toward that side.
That would be called negative caster… And yes all things being equal, a vehicle will pull to the negative caster, normally over 0.5 cross caster degrees depending on vehicle…
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Yep, nonetheless, none of my cars ever pulled left.
Cars are not designed that way… except for a strange French car. Well “strange French car” is redundant!
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Caster can be/is used for road crown, but unnecessary since the effect of road crown varies, and modern roads typically have minimal crown, don’t see a lot or many vehicles running (factory speced) unequal caster much anymore…
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If you never get out of the left lane on the highway the crown rolls off the the left which makes the lead to the left even if the alignment is perfect.
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I’ve been studying alignment printouts for over 20 years, and none of my cars left a shop with more than a quarter degree cross caster, let alone negative caster, or cross camber for that matter.
I guess some of us are so lucky.
I stand by what I said. Any car can be designed to have a staggered wheelbase. all it takes is 2-3mm difference to cause a lead or a pull.
We’ve been picking on the French ever since they gave us that Statue 140 years ago. It’s getting tiring.
Even in the right lane of highways, most of my post-2000-model year cars I had to apply slight right pressure to the steering wheel to keep the car out of the lane to my left.