Movement in stator?

1978 Ford pickup, won’t restart after 30+ minutes driving in town if it sits for more than 5 minutes (like filling the gas tanks). Once it sits for 20-30 minutes, it will restart. Distributor seems very hot, and should there be any movement or play in the stator, or should it be stationary all the time? How difficult is it to replace the stator assembly if is going bad? Thanks.

I think you should be looking at a fuel problem because tihs sounds like a hot-soak restart problem. Check your fuel pressure and the quality of gas that you buy

It could be one of several things. Ignition module, Hall generator in the distributor, or even vapor lock; the latter of which may get worse with hot weather coming on. Or already there if you live in the desert SW.

If you have concerns about the distributor remove the cap and note if there is any sideways movement in the distributor shaft. There should be none but a teensy amount is tolerable. If it moves a lot then you need a complete distributor because the bushings are worn out.

If vapor lock is a suspect remove the top of the air cleaner housing about 5 minutes after shutting the engine off. Look down in the carburetor throat and see if there is any gas dripping from the discharge nozzles, etc.
This problem can also be made worse by a leaking power valve in the carburetor. It’s a common problem with age and mimics vapor lock. Hope that helps.

Maybe related or not, but what do the two condensers (one on the coil, one on an electrical box) do in relation to an electronic ignition? I know the old points and condenser setup had to have one, but is this like an appendix, not really necessary? Seems I saw a post about removing them to get the vehicle restarted. And what is a hot-soak restart problem? I buy top tier gas, and the carb doesn’t seem to be too dry or too wet, not flooded, etc., and gas flows thru the fuel line readily if I disconnect it at the fuel filter. And what is a power valve in the carb?

The capacitors at the coil and the module are there for electrical noise suppression. It’ll run without them, but the radio may not sound too good, and the ignition module may not last too long. The ignition module would be a cheap part to throw at it, and is due if not already replaced. Another thought is, next time this happens, pour some cold water on the ignition module, the coil, and the ignition pickup. See if cooling one of these things makes it work again. If so, replace that part. By power valve, does he mean the check value in the accelerator pump? (The part that pumps in a little extra gas as you move the throttle open.)

Agreed about the condensers and the power valve is a separate part from the accelerator pump circuit. The power valve is in the bottom of the carburetor float bowl.

My recollection is hazy, but I remember that many fords of that vintage had temperature sensitive electronic ignition modules. They would fail when they got too hot and work after they cooled off. try cooling yours off and see what happens.


Naw, never mind.