The mechanic has checked out all suggestions and still is stumped as to the problem. The car runs fine once you get it up to speed and going. But acceleration is slow and steady. No way you could pull out into heavy traffic. It also sits and idles fine. Any other suggestions???
how many miles does the thing got and what is it?
1997 Mitsubishi Mirage Manual 1.5L 4 cyl with 180000+ miles
I previously posted the problems on the 18th. Got a lot of good suggestions but none were the solution. New computer installed, new plugs and plug wires, checked catalytic converter, fuel pressure, new fuel filter. Those are the things I remember. Trusted and long time mechanic totally frustrated!!!
Refresh our memories. Has a check engine light come on? WAS the fuel pressure checked with the transmission in drive and the rpm held at 2,000 rpm, as advised? Was the throttle position sensor (tps) checked (ohms and volts, dc) at idle and above?
Sometimes, when people say they have checked “everything”, they haven’t. They have checked the easy things, or the things that they agree with. So, specifics would be nice, and helpful.
Check engine light never came on. All possibilities advised last time have been checked. Fuel pressure, pressure regulator. The timing was checked.I’m sure 'everything" has not been checked just “all suggestions” and we are just digging for ANYthing anyone might suggest as not having this car has created a true hardship for us.The mechanic did take ALL the suggestions previously posted very seriously and rechecked the things he had already checked that were suggested. As he also knows the bind we are in to fix this one.
This is just a wild idea to look at, and it sounds stupid-simple, but seeing as the basics have been covered, but has he checked the throttle position sensor? Does it rev up properly by manually revving the engine by hand using the throttle linkage?
That is not something I recall so I will suggest it!!
When we talked this afternoon he had checked all “fuel supply” issues so I am not sure.
It sounds like your mechanic has been throwing parts at it and hoping something sticks. A new computer? Those seldom ever go bad.
JMHO here, but anytime a vehicle has a performance problem a compression test should be performed as Step No. 1. This rules out the possibility of a mechanical fault (worn out engine, etc.).
At 180k miles, and considering the car has the dinky little 1.5L in it, running a compression test would be a no-brainer in my book.
The lack of oomph getting up to speed could very well be a tired engine and a comp. test (about 10 minutes of time) should tell you one way or the other.
Another possibility could be the ignition timing not being set correctly since this model uses a distributor. This means the test connector should be jumped when setting the timing or it will be way off the mark.
Yet another possibility is a slipping clutch since the vehicle has a manual transmission.
Hope some of that helps.
The “smell of flooding”…was that, actually, the smell of gasoline inside the car? Was a leak found?
Without knowing exactly what tests were done, how well they were done, and what the results were, I think we are at a standstill.
If the mechanic would give us a detailed account of the state of the car before, all the tests and results (what behaves differently, or same, and how it’s different), and it’s state now, what can I (or, we) advise?
The original problem was, “the car suddenly lost power when being driven at highway speeds”, correct? You have been acting as the “telephone” for the mechanic, haven’t you? A more direct line of communication needs to be established. You could print these pages out at your public library, or someones computer/printer. Then, take these pages to the mechanic. He could , then, write his responses, and you could transmit those responses.
A sudden change in an engine can be caused by the timing belt slipping a tooth, or two. This timing, of camshaft to crankshaft, can, and should, be checked. If the timing belt slips more, it can wreck the engine. It’s what’s called an “interference fit” (valves to pistons) engine.
As I read this thread, I’m inclined to go back to the question “does the engine rev properly when activating the thorottle linkage by hand”. The answer to this question could help seperate whether the problem is in something related to the mechanics of accelerating from whether the problem is a lack of power. That could help him head toward the right system.
Mechanic was going to check out the throttle position sensor, cable and such this afternoon. But I was not able to speak with him to see how that turned out. The timing belt was brought to my attention this afternoon as a possibility. It was adjusted about 7 months ago. But I dont suppose that matters. It can slip at any time?? And is there usually a reason for this or it is something that just happens???
Yes the car suddenly lost power as my daughter was driving up a small hill. The car eventually made it up the hill but never regained power over a short distance with a small decline. Because the car didn’t regain power she pulled over and called and we had the tow truck come get it.
The new fuel filter helped some as now the car can actually accelerate although it is a long and slow process to get it to hiway speed. At the time of breakdown, it would not regain speed.