it is the fuse for the electronis engine control (EEC) its a light blue one and its a good size and 20 amps. as for the leads. i dont know what color. but i put one end that i think was a ground and the other in the end where there is power when the car is turned on. i dont know if it would help. but one was to the far left and the top one “little and big” of where the relay would plug in. i used a jumper wire. was that a wrong way???
thankyou
Click on this web site url. http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/b3/2d/0900823d801eb32d/repairInfoPages.htm When the page opens, click on Fig 17. It shows you the engine cooling fan relays, the power sources, the pcm, and the engine cooling fans. Your electrician could use the diagram.
I think you’re in a bit over your head on this. You CANNOT randomly plug in jumper wires while not knowing the wire color and where they go.
You’ve popped the EEC fuse and hopefully you have not popped a circuit or two in the ECM.
Since I’m assuming the vehicle is still running at this point I would recommend that you drive to a nearby auto parts house such as AutoZone, Advance, Checkers, etc.
Have them pull the codes for you. They will do this for you free. Post any results back here for discussion.
There are a number of codes that can be set for cooling fan problems; most of them starting in the 400s number-wise.
At this point it would be a good idea to find out which, if any, of those cooling fan codes exist.
can you still get a code if the check engine light isn’t on?? also could the dual pressure switch be bad? the ground wires from both “hi/low speed relays” go to it. someone before had said that with the max a/c on that provides a ground for the fan. could that mean that there is a bad or the switch is bad?
Yes, codes can be present even with the CEL off.
The dual pressure switch only affects operation with the A/C on.
The ground wires that trigger both the low and high speed relays do NOT ground through the dual pressure switch. Their grounds are provided by the PCM internally based on other inputs and this ground is provided by another wire lead. The dual pressure switch only provides a signal to the PCM that the A/C is energized. The PCM then processes that info and activates the fans separately of the temperature related needs.
The fact that the OP disconnected the temp sensor, and the cooling fans came on is a indication that electrically everything is working. That is a fail safe mode. I would strap a temp gauge on at the same location of the temp sensor, and compare those readings against the dashboard gauge reading to see if both are on the same page
Are we missing something here, guys? If he unplugs the ECT sensor, the fan turns on. I guess that the default for a bad or no signal from the ECT is FAN ON. If that is the case, the ECT must be bad or the signal must be getting garbled by the PCM. Since the old and new ECT act identically, maybe it is the PCM.
The PCM reads the resistance in the ECT circuit and cycles the fan on as necesarry. As the coolant temp climbs the resistance increases. Unplugging the ECT or a bad connection in the ECT wiring will increase the resistance further. The ACT sensor also has the same readings as the ECT.
The bottom line is that to figure out where the problem lies the OP is going to need decent schematics, decent diagnostic manual, a VOM for testing resistance and voltage through the ECT, and lacking electrical expertise, the ability to sort it out.
Maybe it’s a PCM fault that is allowing the ECT voltage to become too high and this is driving the ECT resistance down. This is where the VOM and the books are going to be needed; short of swapping a PCM out.
Resistance and voltage checks can be made through the ECT circuit although the wire leads may have to be punctured with a needle to do this. On many vehicles Ford uses a Breakout Box to accomplish all of this, but that’s a pretty pricy special tool for the DIYer.
The OP needs to get the codes pulled. There are a number of fan codes ( 7 or 8 of them?) and it could help in narrowing the problem down.