Mazda 3 oil consumption

I stand by what I wrote. I didn’t err when I wrote that. I’ll explain…

Little book - Owner’s Manual… Several hundred pages and it fits in the glove compartment and contains limited information.

Big book - Factory Service Manual
See that little Grand Prix photo next to
common_sense_answer ?
My Grand Prix GM Factory Service Manual has thousands of pages and weighs 13 pounds and contains much more information!

Ignore my advice at your own peril! :grin:
CSA

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My 2011 Outback came with the following booklets:
Owner’s Manual–approximately 350 pages of useful information, in an easily-understood format.
Navigation/Audio/DVD/Bluetooth Manual–288 pages of information that was translated (badly) from another language.
Warranty & Maintenance Schedule–32 pages
Quick Reference Guide–26 pages covering controls, gauges, and other vital info for the new owner.

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Most car owners never even skimmed their owners manuals back when they were a paltry 15-20 pages.

Just because an owners manual consists of 500+ pages does not mean that the owner has to read every single page.
The Table of Contents is there for a purpose.

Exactly! It’s a reference book. Nobody’s going to memorize everything in there.

I will say though, every car owner/operator should spend several minutes familiarizing themselves with the content and lay-out of the manual and some extra time on the “care and feeding” of the vehicle. Then consult the manual again as issues warrant.
CSA :sunglasses:

Precisely!
When I first buy a new car, I spend a couple of days perusing the manual. Some parts, such as the 32 pages on how to use a seat belt (No, I am not kidding! One of my cars–possibly my Accord–actually had 32 pages on that topic.) can obviously be glossed-over. There are always a few a-ha moments, but most of it is not possible to memorize–nor is that necessary.

And, as you suggest, periodically I do refer to specific topics in the manual, as needed. For instance, try as I might, I never seem to remember the correct amount of torque for tightening the lug nuts. And, rather than pore through the book each time, I have written that factoid inside the back cover, highlighted for easy reference.

One of the reasons owners avoid the owner’s manual is that the prose can be difficult for the average owner to understand, or to make it seem simple, there’s important information that is omitted. For example I had occasion to look in my 90’s era Corolla’s owner manual the other day, I guess it is about 60 pages, for instruction how to replace the front side marker bulb. It said to pop the hood, remove the top phillips screw holding the fixture to the chassis, remove the fixture, turn it around to gain access to the backside, which is where you change the bulb. I got to the part where I unscrewed the top screw, and couldn’t go any further. The fixture simply wouldn’t budge, impossible to remove it. It turned out after several hit and miss tries it was held in at the bottom too, by a mushroom shaped pin which went into a plastic bushing. There’s no way a person can remove the fixture, expect perhaps by breaking it, unless they poke a long screwdriver down there and wedge that pin out of its bushing. But the owner’s manual said nothing about the pin and bushing.

You may have a point.
The worst owner’s manual procedure I ever saw was the one for changing the headlight lamp on my daughter’s 2001 Civic. I can sympathize with the poor technical writer who had to write it, however. Whoever designed that lamp retention system must have been a sadist.

Any other nominations for the worst description for a vehicle repair procedure? I’ve seen some doozies, but I think the worst I’ve seen is the FSM description on how to read out the diagnostic codes from the ECM using the dashboard flashing light method on my OBD I Corolla. If a person follows that procedure, I can pretty much guarantee they’ll see no flashing lights.

Interesting question. I think it’s interesting enough to start a separate thread on. I’ll put it under the “General Discussion” category.

Changing a bulb is a service procedure. I don’t think any owners manual ever printed was meant to be a service manual encompassing all repairs.

Sooooo do you consider it a service procedure or a repair?
You said it’s a service procedure, but in the same post you said the owners manuals aren’t meant to cover repairs, implying that the owner’s manual wasn’t meant to describe changing a headlight bulb. But, than, why was it in there? :grin:

Personally, I think of a service procedure as being preventative and a repair as being anything done to fix a problem no matter how simple. I consider a headlight out as being a problem to be fixed.

Says who? I’ve never owned a vehicle in the past 30 years that burned even 1/10 that amount of oil - even with well over 300k miles. My Pathfinder was burning half a quart every 5k miles by the time it reached 450k miles.

I also have not had any engines that used that much oil but that doesn’t mean that is unacceptable. We have no idea how this engine was treated before the OP got the car but we have a hint how the OP’s daughter maintains it. At this point, solving the problem is likely more expensive than the car is worth.

As for “Says who” well, these folks;

http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_consumption.htm

Most of the poster here agree, except you, of course;

And in critical article, BMW says 1 qt in 750 miles is OK…

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You may recall that we had several late-model Audi owners who came to this forum regarding their cars’ high oil consumption rates. According to several of them, they were told by Audi corporate folks that consuming one qt of oil every 600 miles was considered to be “normal” for their engines.
:anguished:

I DO remember that! And those Audi owners’ cars were not high mileage cars, either.

I laugh heartily and roll my eyes at both BMW AND Audi…

Well that’s obvious. All bets are off on everything if you don’t follow normal maintenance. When someone asks a question like this I can only assume that they are following the schedule.

There are many posters who agree that 1 quart every 1000 miles is too much. I think manufacturers post those numbers to cover their but. I’ve never ever seen a properly designed engine burn anywhere close to that much oil - even after well over 100k miles. If a properly designed engine is burning that much oil then something is wrong. May not be anything they can fix without rebuilding the engine, but it’s NOT normal.

Your statement also said it was the high mileage that was causing the oil consumption.

Sorry…I still stand behind my statement…1 quart every 1000 miles on a properly designed engine is not good and not normal.

I do too, except when I am being tailgated by…inevitably…a BMW.
:unamused:

At least when a BMW tails you, he’s not failing to use the turn signals… :laughing:

How would I know when they are too close for me to be able to see the directionals?
:smiling_imp:

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Oh, not necessarily. I’ve had new properly designed 2-strokes that burn that much and more. Also, Mazda, the manufacturer who made the OP’s car, has built properly designed rotary engine cars that approach that level of consumption.

It’s up to the designers to determine what level of consumption is normal. Caveat Emptor! It’s up to the consumers to do some homework and shop carefully if low oil consumption is a priority.

CSA