May be time to give up on my old 1997 Ford F250 Light Duty

I am thinking the end may be near for my old 1997 F250 Light Duty. I took it into a shop for some clunks and growling from the drivetrain, figuring it might be something like U joints and/or motor mounts. The shop called and said it needs a new transfer case and that the rear bearing is completely shot. They say you can grab the driveshaft and rattle it quite a bit.

I had taken into a shop for similar symptoms several years ago. It was U joints but the shop at the time found the transfer case to be mostly full of water. They said the bearings were really howling until they changed the fluid, then it seemed fine. They warned me this likely shortened the life of the unit but couldn’t justify replacement on a truck of this age and condition. They said it could run for years and that something else might fail before it ever became a problem.

The current shop is going to lookup the price for both a new/reman unit as well as a used unit that appears to have tight bearings from external inspection but have suggested this might be the time to move this truck along.

The truck came to me with 279,xxx miles on the odometer like 13 years ago. That number has never changed so I have no idea how many miles are actually on the thing. It came to me in rough rusted condition and that certainly has not gotten any better. I have spent some money on this thing that I didn’t plan to do during the pandemic when used car prices were so high as that was more cost-effective than replacing the truck. The front-end, at least two tires, and clutch were all replaced at this time. I have also tried to keep up on the basic mechanics so many other parts are new.

Besides the overall very rough and rusty condition, I do feel that the engine may be loosing compression. It fires right up and runs well down the road, no matter if it is hot or freezing cold outside. I have noticed it beginning to creep and roll in gear. You can tell that the cylinders are uniformly down on compression as it will never hit a good cylinder and stop rolling. It just pauses and then keeps on moving. I have been careful where I park and put it in low-range and use a wheel chock if I am concerned about it rolling. There is also some oil consumption and smell but nothing terrible. I might not need to add any oil between changes or it might need a quart. I figure the engine could run a few more years in this state or drop a valve, have a timing chain break, or some other catastrophic failure. I see no reason this would happen as the engine sounds great when running, except for lifter tick at times on startup.

I kinda like having such an old beatup truck for certain things. You don’t care to use it for dirty jobs since a new dent or scratch will not be something you care about. I throw junk, firewood, lumber, or whatever in the bed and don’t care.

I figure that if I can get a good used transfer case for $1000 installed, it might not be a bad idea. I would be happy with another 2-3 years out of the truck. At that time I figure the engine will be even worse as far as the compression is concerned. I know it might be a gamble and this could make me more likely to dump more money into if it needs work in the near future.

Any opinions? This has been a great old truck for my uses but know it is getting old and eventually won’t be worth it. Also, what should something like this bring if it runs and I put it up for sale? A buddy said any truck that runs with 4WD is worth AT LEAST $1500 even in poor condition.

Run a compression test and see how close to original the readings are. I suspect that the body and complete drivetrain are worn out and you should shop for a replacement now.

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Yeah, sounds like all major systems are knocking on heaven’s door…

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I drove my riviera to 520,000 miles before I junked it. Looking back at my repair records I would have been ahead of the game if I would have dumped it at 350,000. Hind sight is great. Fore sight not so much. Rarely do you have the opportunity to have everything wear out at once.

Wouldn’t a competent shop replace the worn bearings in the transfer case and put it back on? I assume there isn’t much in there.

Another thought…

It could leave you stranded, far from home, in the middle of doing chores, with a bed full of “junk”.

Change horses now, on your terms, and reduce the chances of getting stranded randomly. This situation isn’t going to improve, even with a new to you transfer case.

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Where is the difficulty in making a decision about this vehicle that is past it’s sell date.

Just bail and find something else

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It is time to say goodbye to your old friend and look for a new one.

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If you’re getting a newer Ford, be sure to check out the bottom of the frame for rust.

Nope, not much there at all with the Borg Warner 1356 T-case…

T-case build shops are getting rare, most shops just swap or send out to a specialty shop to have them built… remember that all that bearing material may have gotten into the gears, planets etc etc and already damaged them as well…

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A coupe of things:

  1. Inertia. He has the truck and it often is useful. Getting rid of it requires some work including deciding how to dispose of it and then executing the plan.
  2. Good feelings. @cwatkin told us how much he likes the truck. Some people have feelings for inanimate objects even if it doesn’t seem to make sense. Feelings are subjective and you are looking at it objectively. Objectivity is where we come in.

And the fees or taxes to title and register a vehicle. In Illinois it is now $275 at the lowest tax bracket to buy a car from someone and get the title in your name. So much for buying that $600 car and driving it for 6 months. A 1997 would qualify for the $45 expanded antique yearly registration instead of $151 regular yearly registration. That’s one good thing. Other States may have similar discounts.

I’d be inclined to fix/replace the transfer case and otherwise keep your truck for occasional use Unless:

  • There is significant body rust, esp in areas that are hard to repair, firewall, floors, rocker panels.
  • There is significant frame , suspension mounts or engine mounts rust
  • You don’t know how water got into the T-case in the first place, and therefore you may also have water contamination damage in progress in the engine, transmission, and/or differentials.

How bad is the body and frame? Have you searched on car-part.com for a replacement transfer case?

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The body is pretty rusted but the frame is actually in OK shape. It isn’t perfect but I don’t worry about it breaking in half when I have more than the rated weight in the bed even now. Keep in mind that I have other vehicles and this is not my only car. I have a small car and other trucks as well so this is not something that my life depends on working.

I am still on the fence about fixing it. My plan is if it can be fixed with a decent used transfer case for around $1000, I might go ahead. If it is going to cost $2500, then no thanks. The shop will call me when they have an idea of what it will cost.

The water got in the transfer case when some brush I drove over pulled the vent tube down and allowed this to happen. That is what the last shop thought as the vent tube was out of place and positioned to where water from splashing could get inside.

My friends and family who know how I use this truck all think it wouldn’t be a bad idea to fix it if it isn’t going to cost a ton of money. $1000 isn’t a ton of money in the grand scheme of things and if it buys another 2-3 years, then it would definitely be worth it. This would probably save at least $1000 of wear and tear on the other vehicles that are in MUCH BETTER shape than this beatup old thing. Another dent or scratch to this one isn’t going to matter.

Also, what does something like this bring on the used market. It is rough but runs and the 4WD does engage. This may plan into my decision to keep. Remember that one of my LEAST favorite things is buying and selling cars so that is another reason to hang onto it. Selling something in such rough shape is sure to bring in the real undesirables.

I’d say you are on the right track. If the fix turns out to cost $2500, more than you want to spend, one option, ask them how much they would charge to simply remove the xfer case & put it in the bed of your other truck, you take it apart & fix it yourself at home at your leisure, return it to them, they then they install it. I expect there are xfer case rebuild kits available for a 97 Ford F250 that would contain most of the parts you need. Unless the case is cracked, rebuilding your own unit will likely yield better results than installing another used unit.

I’d find a recycler with a quality used unit and exchange it with them. I’d rather have one that hadn’t sat filled with water.

So how much should he be excepted to pay for storage while the truck is 100% undrivable and the shop has to store it while the OP takes his time (and business away from the shop) to attempt to rebuild it??

Most shops would say NO due to the fact it might not work when they install a non pro built t-case, plus space is money at a shop, the space a dead in the water vehicle is taken up could be money being made by another vehicle… If the shop sent it out, at least then they would make a little off the job by charging retail (and maybe even mark up) but paying wholesale for the reman unit…

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You mean like this transmission that was bought as a rebuildable core, but the recycler said it came out of a running truck and we could just change the filter and gasket and run it?? :man_facepalming: :laughing:

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Good point about the non-moving truck taking up space at the shop. Easy enough problem to solve though. If the shop charges $200 to store it and the cost to tow it home and back is $150 …

It’s another good point that the shop may refuse to install a unit the OP repairs. If there are no local shops that will do this, then the OP can either install it themselves, or they always can just abandon the project and junk the truck.

Also concur that there’s a good deal of risk with installing a used unit.