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Lost a few circuits, what's the connection

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante ES and someone backed into the drivers? door. I bought a replacement door online and replaced it myself. One thing that slightly complicated the door replacement is that the car came with an aftermarket remote starter which has some wires that are hard wired thru the drivers door to the drivers door switch control module. It all went well until a week after the repair. Then the first sign of a problem was the blower fan stopped working but the blower control and display show it should be and beeps as you adjust the speed or turn on or off. It appears the switch is working fine but not the blower fan.

Then I discovered other things stopped working too.

There is a number of seemingly unrelated electrical circuits are now not working, the gas cap door release, the drunk lid release, the brake lights, and the power door locks. There is a clicking sound that happens when I either actuate the lock or unlock button on the door switch control panel or the remote key fob. I have checked all the fuses at both panel locations and there are no blown fuses.

Initially I clipped the 3 wires that were hard wired and had no problems. After the problems arose I put the original wire harness in the new door and reconnected the 3 wires back to their original connection.

I have tried unsuccessfully to ?reset? the system by disconnecting the battery a few times.

Any suggestions to get these circuits working again? I appreciate any help you could give.



Why don’t you take the wiring from the original door and put it into the replacement door. I think that might work.

I did put the original wire harness into the replacement door thinking that it would do the trick but no luck.

What is the common link between all of these non-working circuits?

It’s a kind of a weird problem. I’m thinking possibly a weak battery, but more likely a poor power or ground connection that affects a lot of circuits. I think the first step would be to find something that is not working that is easy to get to – a brake light maybe. Measure the voltage to the device when it is off (should be zero) – when it should be on (should be very close to the battery voltage) and at it’s ground terminal when it is on (should be very close to zero). Most likely either the voltage when the device should be on will be positive, but low or the voltage when the device should be on measured at the ground terminal will be well above zero. In the first case, you have a power distribution connection problem. In the second case, you have a ground problem.

I don’t think the problem is a weak battery because the first symptom of a weak battery is usually starting problems. But I have had cars where the radio and some other gadgets dropped offline before the starter acted up.