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Kia With Broken Timing Belt

2003 Kia Optima, 2.4L, 111K. Picked this car up dirt cheap because of the broken timing belt. I’ve already pulled the head off and having it worked on. The #1 cylinder has 2 small nicks from the collision and what would be the best way to smooth the top of the piston out? I have the complete timing kit to put back in once the head is ready which should be Mon. or Tues. While looking up parts for this project, I did not realize that Kia and Hyundai are cousins. Also one last question…Should I use copper Kote on the head gasket?

Use a dremel to knock down any high points and emery cloth to smooth out the rough edges. High points and sharp edges create hot spots that can lead to predetonation (knocking). I personally have not used copper sealant on any head gaskets I’ve replaced. I just use good quality gaskets, like Felpro. Just make sure the head surface and deck surface are clean and flat. I uee acetone on a lint-free cloth for final cleaning.

Bustedknucles is 100% don’t put anything on the head gasket unless it is called for.

I use Copper Coat on a lot of gaskets because it works to hold in liquids of all types. I would never think of using it on a head gasket however.

You sure motor is “robust” enough to handle broken timing belt? Most comments I get here says its better to find good used motor. But than a overheated motor is different than a beat up, timing belt issue.

@Cavell… ??


"The #1 cylinder has 2 small nicks from the collision "

I hope you don’t mean the #1 cylinder wall itself has 2 small nicks . . . ?!

I realize you most likely mean the #1 piston, but that’s not exactly what you wrote

In regards to the “complete kit” . . . does that include the water pump, idler, tensioner, and the seals?

If not, I’d highly consider doing all that stuff. Now’s an excellent time to do it, when everything’s exposed. You’ll probably get a new cam seal anyways, when the head is back.

By the way, what’s the deal with your valve lash? If you don’t have hydraulic lash adjusters, make absolutely sure that the machine shop adjusts the valve lash, especially if you use shims. If the repair order doesn’t specify, ask them.

Personally, I’ve used aerosol Copper Coat on head gaskets for decades with no problems whatsoever. The epoxy and suspended copper particles are just a little extra insurance against leaks, gasket disentegration over time, and helping to fill in minute nicks and scratches in the head and block surfaces.

I got in this habit a long time ago when Subaru started recommending it due to the number of head gasket issues they suffer from. I use Copper Coat rather than the recommended at the time Fuji Bond. The CC is a few dollars; the FB is considerably more than a few dollars and does not work any better.