it sounds like you ve been trying to fix a problem that does not exist. been there done that
Let me get his straight. You had an “oil” light on in the dash board not sure if it was for pressure or level. You replaced the oil pressure sending unit 4 times? Or both the sending unit and the level sensor a total of 4 times? Never had the pressure manually checked, and don’t know how to read a dipstick, so you replaced the oil pump. Do I have that correct? If so I can do no more damage here.
I give up!!!
first it’s the oil pressure light then it’s the oil level light.
The pump repair would be associated with oil pressure, but no manual oil pressure gauge was used to doublecheck the pressure.
You said in the last post…when asked spacific’s …that you replaced the oil level sending unit.
Makes no sense.
Yosemite
This god damn light… The red one… Keeps flashing & i do know how to read a dipstick… Its at a good level
Well don’t get your panties in a ruffle, we’re only trying to understand…we are not there.
But now that you show us a picture!!! It’s clear!!!
Look above that light and a little to the right “OIL PRESSURE”!!! Big enough!!!
So the light is oil level. hint, hint…oil can…drip, drip, add oil.
You were the one waffling from “oil pressure light”…“to oil level light”, and we couldn’t get you to confirm the pressure.
I don’t remember anyone here saying it was the oil pump…they would have asked what the pressure really was with a manual gauge.
You wanted us to throw out possabilities and we did. When you were asked to clear up our questions you went deaf.
If the sending unit was already replaced (The one in the oil pan) then you have a problem with the wiring.
You replaced the pump for no reason
Stick some black tape over the offending culprit and use the dipstick.
Yosemite
That light is the oil pressure light, and the red STOP on the driver information display confirms that the car thinks it has no oil pressure. Before you do anything else, get the pressure checked with a calibrated mechanical gauge. The problem could be in the sensor wiring, but the pressure needs to be measured first to confirm it’s ok.
I agree with BustedKnickles. It’s the oil PRESSURE light. Also the fact that it comes on at low RPMs further confirms this. A low oil level light wouldn’t vary with RPMs. I doubt it’s the wiring since it comes on at low RPMs. As the others have said you need to have the pressure checked with a mechanical gauge.
I must get out more.
I guess I’ve never seen a “low oil pressure light” along with a gauge.
I’ve seen warning displays or flashing lights and chimes, but never just a light that comes on too.
Mt Dakota will chime and a message appears that says “check gauges”. At least that’s what is supposed to happen…never has, because I’ve never let it get that low.!!!
Yosemite
From a gambling money perspective, the safe odds are that your engine is worn out, or getting there.
Replacing oil pumps to cure a problem like this is one of the most ill-advised repairs that can ever be done to an engine. Might as well flush money down the toilet in the bathroom.
As others have said, the oil pump is the last thing to wear out, last thing to get oil starved.
It’s likely worn bearings. Thicker oil is a band aid to postpone a rebuild or engine replacement.
Did they replace the switch?
I think this one got derailed by the OP and the complaint certainly came across as pretty disjointed to me also. A complaint with clarity it was not and replacing the same part 4 times points to not a well thought out situation to keep it in polite terms.
From the pic the engine appears to be running and up to temp so why in the world is it being allowed to run with the oil pressure lamp on and very bold STOP message being illuminated…
So basiacly engine gone??
Maybe, but we can’t tell that from here.
You need to have a competent shop evaluate it. Part of that will be to put a mechanical gage on the engine to manually read the actual pressure. If the pressure is actually okay, the shop will need to determine why the gage is suggesting otherwise. If the pressure actually is low, the shop can make recommendations from there. They might suggest a higher weight oil, they might try evaluating the lubrication system for clogs, they might suggest dropping the oil pan and evaluating a bearing or two, and they might try cleaning the screen if it looks gumped up. A lot might depend upon the shop’s overall assessment of the vehicle.
The only thing we can tell you from here is that you changed the oil pump needlessly.
That was just me trying out my luck… But it didnt go well… But after i got my car out of the mechanic did about 100-200 km on the car, next day after i drove to work it went on and off…
I take it then that you took it somewherev to get the oil pressure read.
What did the mechanic say the pressure was?
Yosemite
Looks like it calls for 5W-30 Synthetic.Is this what you’re using? Some VWs are very picky over oil thickness(Audis too).You shouldn’t use oils that are thicker,especially w/turbo charging.
@Dusenburg, these posts are, like, 2 months old. Please let them rest.
@BustedKnuckles
Not to mention that OP refused to listen to good advice