Me thinks this is a joke post.
If the vehicle is still under any kind of warranty, then yes… If not under warranty, then slap it on the ground a few times (dirty side down) and put it back in and save yourself a couple of bucks,…
When you start to see black on it, then change it…
At about $20, I’d just replace it. I’d buy two if you think you will keep the car longer than 2 or 3 years. Then you can check every 15,000 to 20,000 miles, more often if you live in an area with a lot of small road debris.
If you can see light thru the media when you shine a flashlight behind the filter, the filter can still be used.
Did you know air filters become more efficient the dirtier they get?
Up to a point.
Tester
Yeah I’ve been doing the shop light test for 50 years.
Is your 0 to 60 time less than it should be?
That’s how HEPA filters work in cleanrooms. They get better at filtering particles as they fill up but eventually have too much particle burden and the pressure drop becomes too high. For these filters, that’s years and maybe decades.
My Corolla seems to do a little better on its HC emissions tests if the engine air filter has been installed for 10,000 miles or so.
Air filters are cheap. Engines aren’t.
I run my air filters (in my climate/area) 75K miles or more without doing anything to them and when I finally change then, there is no change in MPH or my buttometer… And it wasn’t the cost, cause while still working, my cost for most air filters was normally under $5.00… When you spend $10,000 or more a month with parts houses, you can get your own parts pretty dang cheap… lol
I have seen some vehicles that required the engine filter to be changed much sooner, like every 20K give or take, so…
I have also seen test done on flow benches that a cheap $1.99 and a K&N as well as a few others can still flow 3000 cfm with the filter half taped off, simulating 1/2 clogged, these were typical 60 and 70’s era round 2" x 12" roughly, it was year ago, so basically a mild built big block Chevy 454ci engine could run with an air filter 75% clogged and it would not affect it any performance wise… 1/2 clogged = 3000 cfm, 3/4 clogged = 1500 cfm of air flow… A 502ci engine turning 6,000 rpms needs a carb that flows about 872 cfms assuming it is running at 100% efficiency… So maybe use a 900 cfm carb on it, that is still below the 75% clogged up… meaning that an engine air filter has to be pretty dirty to effect the running and efficiency of the vehicle…
Now my newest family member will get the air filter changed when ever it is recommended by the dealer or whenever the maintenance schedule recommends it only cause of the warranty, once out of warranty, probably not for a long time unless it just gets very dirty unlike my other vehicles…
Just what I have found over the years in my little part of the world, not saying it is right or wrong, your area may/can/will differ…
Compressed air through the filter backwards will make it sorta like new.