H11 is the form factor not the power rating. He’s using lamps designed as headlamps in a fog lamp socket if the OP is accurate. Just because a single LED uses less power than a filament lamp does not mean they can’t gang up enough LEDs to draw significant power, perhaps exceeding the design considerations for a fog lamp socket and circuit. I didn’t say it was too high, I said are you sure…
H11 bulbs are also used in fog lights. Look at the link in my previous reply.
Standard halogen bulbs draw 55 watts. I know of no LED replacement bulb that draws anything near that.
@TwinTurbo that was why I only chose a lower lumen h11 bulb comparatively speaking. Most of the ones out there now are 10k+ lumens but I wanted to choose something that had better reliability and reviews from people. I could have chosen one of the dinky right-angled “h11 foglight bulbs”, but they have so little to no power in them it’s not worth replacing stock bulbs with those. I chose the car rover ones because they were brighter than the typical style foglight bulb, but the reviews of them were pretty good.
The concept of the foglight doesn’t need to be just a low power bulb, even a wicked bright bulb wouldn’t blind other drivers where they are located so close to the ground. A foglight housing is designed to be angled downward and cast light in the same regard, just enough to spread outward in the road, but basically it mainly is to supplement between the bottom edge of the headlights and directly onto the road.
So when I installed these car rover h11 bulbs, I made sure they weren’t some super power bulb, and because they’re 8000 lumen, they wouldn’t need as much power and crate as much heat as a 10k or higher lumen bulb. I’d only go up to an 8000 lumen bulb. And just so everyone is sure of this, these car rover bulbs are LEDs. I think some people may have though these were different but they are less with an 8000lumen rating and I believe 6000 kelvin ought tmeprsture rating too. I just am not sure how I’m going to mitigate the radio problems without ripping these bulbs out, especially since they are decent bulbs minus this one problem.
Wanna bet? That idea doesn’t hold water at all.
A bright light is a bright light, and since it’s very unlikely that the light emission geometry is identical between the bulb you’re supposed to be using and the bulb you’re actually using, it’s entirely possible that the reflector isn’t aiming the light correctly any more, making the problem even worse.
You’re not, unless you’re willing to spend lots of money or you get lucky.
That’s all I was pointing out.
Back to the noise issue, it could be solved but you might not like the result. First step is to characterize the noise being generated and whether it is radiated or conducted. Ferrites at the source will stub out conducted noise feeding back from the LEDs but they need to be the right size and form factor for the noise frequency and amplitude. You could guess and might get lucky but I prefer the measured approach as we do this kind of thing everyday for the products we design. Unfortunately, if the noise is radiated, then something along the lines of what shadowfax mentioned would be required and not an optimum solution from an aesthetics or implementation perspective. Maybe you can contact the manufacturer and point out they seem to be interfering despite their claims to the contrary and see what they say.
Other ideas to try first: Make sure the antenna connection to the radio is making a good contact. If you have an external antenna for the radio, make sure its ground is making a good, clean contact to the car’s chassis also. That ground connection is usually made near the antenna base. It’s possible there’s a manufacturing problem with those particular bulbs or their electronics too, a sample defect, so try another set.