@juniorMint, I can take front wheels off with the car on stands and the wheel unbraked. The impact wrench doesn’t spin the wheel at all. That is another thing I like about it. With a breaker bar, I have to break the nuts loose while the car is on the ground, then lift the wheels.
I bought the Impact wrench at Sears, and they didn’t try to sell me a compressor. Even if they do, it’s still your choice whether to buy it or not! I’m just saying that you don’t need much of a compressor to take wheel nuts off with an impact wrench. A pressure regulator may help you use air more efficiently, and a good 3/8" ID hose can help. I notice a little difference when I use one of those 1/4 ID coil hoses.
I have a VERY small compressor/tank, and a small impact wrench, which worked fine for swapping out wheels each winter. It did make my re-decking project (nail gun) a bit slow, but it’s not like I was in a rush.
As for the impact driver, I used one years ago on my motorcycle. I may have used it once in 30 years since…
before I start discussing this in another thread - what would you all do, buy an electric impact wrench with medium torque, or a high torque impact wrench with 2 or more scfm’s (e.g. the IR 231C) above your air compressor?
If it’s just for occasional use, and I already had the compressor, I’d get the IR. CFM means nothing for short interval use. You’ll just need to wait every so often for the tank to refill (as others have said).
I’ve got a little portable compressor and a larger stationary one. I like the portable because I can take it with me to run an air tool or two. With the portable, I can run a crown nailer or brad nailer all day long without a problem. With either the finish nailer though or the framing nailer, its good for maybe 3 or 4 nails before it has to catch up again. No big deal either way as long as you know your limitations. I’ve even used the air tank for a small job where there was no electricity and didn’t want to bother with the generator. Adding an air tank to a little compressor can add capacity pretty cheaply but will take a while to gain pressure again.
I just did a brake job on my 97 Nissan truck today and I removed the caliper brackets (19mm bolts) using a breaker bar, in my driveway on jackstands. I think you will find that the only angle that you can get the breaker bar on is about horizontal so all the pressure is applied downward, no force forward or backward. Set your hand brake and use chocks for the rear wheels.
BTW, I do have an electric impact wrench from Lowes, 400 ft lbs torque. If you use an impact wrench, be sure to use impact sockets too. The breaker bar was faster and easier. BTW, the caliper bolts to the caliper bracket via the caliper pins, the caliper bracket bolts to the steering knuckle.
I’ve used both types - and choosing which to use depends on the situation.
I use the hand driver on Phillips head screws and the like - stuff where a screw driver or nut driver is used to install the screw or bolt
For stuff where a wrench is normally used, I use a pneumatic driver. I’ve only used electric drivers when others are supplying them - and they’ve worked OK, but torque is limited.
Oh, and PB Blaster is your friend. Use a day before you start the project (if you can) to give it time to soak in.
And one last thought: I don’t have impact sockets - and I’ve only broken one socket using a pneumatic driver. It was a Craftsman, and they replaced with no hassle. No question a pro would need dedicated impact sockets, but the home mechanic can get by without (provided he can afford the time it takes to replace a broken one).