Gots’ed (own) the early GM, points and condenser super dependable conventional ignition that made America a super power. Have about 5 in my old trucks, then blew a knee, so getting to the back of a GM/V8 hurts now. If I had a Ford, I could just lean forward. I hated the newer electronic replacements after hearing about the impossible breakdowns. No way, but now because of the bad knee, I want to put one (5) of these in, then forget about them for the next 20 years. Is that possible?
I have heard of HMI, EFI, BFD, DMCser and the ones that the cleany boys talk about on the weekends at the “horsepower” channel, where nothing is dirty. What a lie. Funny tennis shoes too.
What do I have to go buy from an auto parts store or speed shop that I can install - Remove and Replace to get the spark back, but is dependable and fixable along the road if necessary. I know there is a module or something you should carry (so I heard) if it fails, so as not to call a tow. So what do you think, it is a ????_ or what? I am after something that I can fix so as to never, ever, ever, not make it home and have to call a tow.
I know these newer things are nice in many respects, but once they fail, dumb dumb, call a Tow. Dumb. I have never had to call a tow truck because of a failure of the old points/condenser ignition systems. Does anyone know of the best, dependable system I should look for? HEI per the neighbor Thanks Woody
I think any of the HEI distributors will just drop in with the one wire connecting to it. You can buy an extra one and take it with you when you travel. It saves you from disassembling it to change the pickup. The pickup almost never just quits, it’s usually the module that does that. Parts are cheap and you can get them anywhere new parts or junk parts are sold. 74 thru 76 should do it.
I second that. Early HEIs are just about bullet proof and tune-up parts are more common than the point type distributors.
I think any of the HEI distributors will just drop in with the one wire connecting to it.
It’s important to mention that the power wire for the existing points distributor is a ballast resistor wire meant to drop the voltage to the points. HEI needs the full 12 volts so you have to run a new wire from the fuse box to the distributor for it to work reliably.
Thanks all, epecially twin turbo. I will be on the lookout for a few HEI’s. Say, what do you thing about just taking the resistor out of the loop to get the full 12 jolts. Or does the HEI require a bigger wire for a bigger amp draw? I have taken a short jumper to jump around this resistor for cold starts and I does really help there, Iknow it is bad long term to leave this jumper in place. Sure starts hot though. thanks again to all. So what, a new wire from the the ign switch at 20 amps, or just take the resistor out of the loop and let sit there for prestidigiousness and sloppy looks for the old junker car shows.
Thanks, woody
I know on the older systems like you currently have that the resistor is normally bypassed in the START mode and then used in the RUN mode. I’m not sure if the HEI system needs that resistor or not. Bypassing the resistor on the old system in the RUN mode will damage the coil due to excessive current draw.