I’m usually pretty careful not to drop the bolt, but still happens more than I would like. Just falls into the drain pan though and I wear the nitile gloves. There is no good way to avoid a mess sometimes so I just put a big piece of cardboard down on the garage floor.
Can’t imagine spreading a 30 minute oil change out over night though.
I stopped using base hobby shops when, while active duty, I was told to leave because a retiree wanted the space. I don’t even bother driving to the base, about ten miles, to use the commissary.
I rarely wear gloves and have very rarely drop an oil drain plug in oil, I think I dropped more bolts anytime I tried wearing gloves, now I have slung a few hot ones and had to go pick it up… lol
Everyone is different, if it works for you and doesn’t hurt anything, go for it…
Another thing I do is always take my watch off. So that when the hot oil runs down my arm, I don’t have the hassle of cleaning the flex band. Of course that’s because I’m laying on the floor and reaching under the car without the help of one of those fancy car lifts. Not like you pros or my bil that has two of them. Don’t feel sorry for me. In the winter I used to put on my old army jacket to stay warm. Now I just turn the kero heater on a little ahead of time. 
Now that we have beat oil changes to death, vote no on killing owls. These people are nuts.
Every single bolt on every vehicle manufactured for the past 50+ years have a torque spec. REAL mechanics will only use a torque wrench for critical bolts like (head bolts) or bolts on a cast part to prevent warping. The big deal is - Using a torque wrench on every bolt is extremely time consuming and 99.9999% of the time it’s NOT needed. I’ve been wrenching for 50+ years and I’ve never had a problem NOT using a torque wrench. I only used one when NEEDED.
We had a couple great shops at Ft Campbell when I was stationed there after Nam.
Almost all military installations have auto hobby shops… Some are better than others are, but all are acceptable. The best part is that it provides a location where a vehicle can be worked on in relative safety (no bumper jack, bricks, lumber holding up a vehicle). They generally have every tool needed to do the job correctly (ball joint forks instead of banging on the threaded shafts), wheel pullers, torque wrenches, oil disposal tanks (instead of pouring it into a milk jug and dumping it into a dumpster…), and perhaps the best of all, the camaraderie of like minded wrenchers, who will willing lend a hand when you need that “third hand…”
To use these facilities you generally need to be Active Duty, Retired Veterans, Dependents, DoD Employees, and anyone else with unescorted access to the installation (with priority in that order…)
They are not free, we pay to use them, 30-minutes on the lifts is $5.00, the non-lift bays are $50.00 a day, and perhaps the costliest is your signature on the “Unlimited Liability Clause…”
I use new oil on the filter seal after cleaning the mating surface with paper towel. Hand tighten then filter wrench. Wipe down again. Lay cardboard under car. Add oil and run engine. Stop engine and observe cardboard. Check it again next day. Fram filters since 1968 Camaro to 1999 Grand Marquis LS
My wifes retirement fund says Thank You.
FYI, the reason that most cartridge filters use torque angle (number of degrees to turn after a specific torque or contact) is not because most people do not have a torque wrench. It is to more accurately control the compression of the rubber seal.
The general rule of thumb is that rubber seals best with 30% compression. This is taught in engineering schools and has been for the last 100+ years. It has not been updated for newer compounds of rubber as far as I know, but everyone still uses it, again as far as I know.
So to achieve this ideal 30% compression, the designer of the filter knows the thickness of the seal and the pitch of the threads on the oil filter. It is easy from there to calculate the amount of rotation of the filter to achieve the ideal compression, i.e. 3/4 turn after contact or 7/8 turn after contact. It is more accurate than a torque wrench.
The engineers can also (and usually do) determine the amount of torque that normally achieves the desired torque angle and that will be pretty darn close, especially those who cannot determine the point of contact very well.
The effectiveness of the rubber seal has a wide range because of the modulus of elasticity of rubber so hitting the exact spec, either torque or % of turn isn’t that critical. In this case, close is good enough.
You are welcome!
Even if I could figure out a way to fit it where it needed to go, I don’t know how I’d even use a torque wrench for tightening an oil filter. How would you connect the wrench to the filter?
My diy’er method for estimating tightening torque: Say I need 20 foot pounds. I push on a bathroom scale to judge how much force equals 20 pounds. Then I apply that same force to a wrench or ratchet with a 1 foot handle. I suppose something like that could be used for tightening an oil filter.
Do you not own the type of filter wrench that fits onto your ratchet and the bottom of your filter? I’ve got at least five of various sizes. I had to order the odd ball Honda filter wrench. Pricey but chrome plated.
I don’t have one of those. It would be pretty awkward to use for my vehicles. The strap-type oil filter wrenches work best for me.
Yeah I have a couple of those too that I haven’t used in 30 years. No space. The other kind you can use an extension or even a swivel to reach the filter.
I have one of this style filter wrench. It even works when the filter is up in a well and really should be done with a socket. It was cheap. And has been effective on all of my filter set ups.
I never use it to tighten though. As many others have said - snug + about 3/4 turn. For me that’s just a couple of grunts. No tools used to tighten.
I found one of those laying in the road during a walk-a-bout, and have used it several times, where it came in very handy, but never used it for an oil filter. I’ll try it next time I do an oil change, as it looks like it is configured with the correct orientation for my vehicles. One advantage over the strap type, it looks like it would works on most filter diameters. So only need one tool.
Just Google Oil Filter Cup
You asked, I’ve answered… these style Oil FIlter Wrenchs are made for all size filters…
I no longer do oil changes on my car/truck, but I do it on my lawn mower. Had to get this tool to remove the filter at first oil change, I suspect the gasket was not smeared with oil when installed at the factory. I always use fresh oil on the gasket. I just hand tighten, no tools, still need a tool to remove the filter.
This can only be used for filter removal.
