I’ve never seen or heard of anyone ever using a torque wrench on an oil filter.
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Never used one, just 3/4 turn after first contact of gasket.
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+1 for above…
I have never used or seen anyone using a torque wrench on an oil filter, I am sure some do but I have just never seen it and Firestone has very strict policy on drain plugs and oil filters being double checked by another person and using Yellow Warranty Seal Marker on
on drain plugs, and torquing an oil filter is not mentioned…
If you are doing it cause you don’t trust yourself, good for you, but it is not normal in my part of the world or any FS in any of the 2200+ shops in the USA…
Vehicles come with oil plug/filter torque specs, takes the guess work out…what’s a big deal?
My camry has a cartridge, the spec is stamped on the cover.
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/torque-specs-needed.1668729/
I’m not a mechanic, but every vehicle I’ve owned had the oil filter within reach of a torque wrench with the proper extension.
Torque for the drain plug, yeah. Every set of instructions I’ve ever seen for a spin-on filter, though, utilizes how much of an extra turn to use (e.g., 2/3, 3/4, etc.) For my 2008 Avalon that uses a cartridge, at some point the housing is snug and tight, which has always been sufficient, and it is not located in a spot that would make the use of a torque wrench easy.
Yeah, that works. But for those of us that are OCD, the torque spec is comforting.
Deliberately misspelling/pronouncing a name is disrespect. I’ve cut open a few Phrams…
What did you see?
That’s you?
There’s lively discussion about this topic in the airplane world. As you can imagine, there’s a bit more riding on the oil filter staying put than with a car. What I’ve seen is, it’s all over the place. Some engine manufacturers have angle specs, some torque specs and others also require safety wire as added insurance. Some gaskets are dry install, some are lubricated. At any rate, one guy commented that he marked the can in 45 degree increments and then installed it until the gasket touched and made note of the marks. After torqueing to spec, it was very close to the 3/4 turn mark. So perhaps the 3/4 turn instructions are just an easier way for the vast majority of oil changing peeps to achieve the same result- or at least, good enough. Maybe you could repeat that exercise next time you change yours and let us know what you find. I would be interested…
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I would also advise the OP to do the Oil Change after the engine is warmed up, it does not have to be Hot, but Warm Oil has a lot of the junk suspended in it… The OP should pick up some inexpensive snug fitting Mechanic Gloves or even Garden Gloves with rubber palm and fingers and pick up a box of Blue Nitrile Gloves from Harbor Freight or a similar item in Extra Large to fit over the mechanic gloves.
The gloves protect the hands from the hot oil spilling out of the oil pan as the bolt is removed and the Rubber Gloves protest the Mechanic Gloves for future use…
And a setup like this ensures the OP can get a good grip on the slick old, hot Oil Filter when it’s time to remove it and reinstalling the new filter…
Taking out the drain bolt without burning my hand (proper gloves) is a piece of cake; the filter can wait till the engine cools. For gloves, I have a box of “one size too big” nitrile gloves that I slip over a pair of cheap brown cotton gloves. One vehicle is high enough that I don’t bother with gloves, socket on an extension and my hands stay clean.
At oil change time…when I’m done driving for the day, I pull my car into the garage and immediately pull the bolt. I let it drain out overnight. Next morning I change filter and complete the job.
That’s definitely what it is. I’ll bet many DIY oil changers don’t even know that a torque wrench exists.
Totally unnecessary and I may be wrong but that just not seem like a good practice . What are you going to do If you are really sick and someone starts your car to take you to the Doctor and does not know the car does not have any oil in it.
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I have 3 cars, 3 motorcycles, ATV, 4 electric bikes and a donkey cart…I’ll make it to the hospital. Oh, and my family aren’t morons; hood up, jack out, dirty rags, creeper peaking out from under the car…they’re not going to start it.
Engine off, pull the plug, drain it for 2 minutes, slide an empty pan in and leave over night…see how much more oil comes out.
Edit, for me, it’s about 1/4 quart of glitter oil…all those little pieces the oil filter can’t grab slowly draining down from the top. Next time, I’m going to take a sample of the quick drain and the overnight and look at them in my digital microscope. See which has higher particle density and if there’s any size difference.
Everyone has their own “wisdom”, I guess. I tend to try and tighten a filter with one hand as tight as I can get it. If it seems like that’s not enough because I couldn’t get a good grip I’ll try to get both hands involved. So far, so good.
Why are you asking ? You should know the answer to that question . And since I am not going to do that I will never know.
I change my oil at a military auto hobby shop and the vehicle is on a lift with an Oil Drain Tank (with the funnel like top…) to catch the oil and not all of them have screens and if you drop your pan bolt into your oil drain pan, no big deal, but if I drop my bolt and the passes around the screen and down the tube, then I would be dumping out many gallons of oil and trying to fish the bolt out of the bottom of the tank… I am real careful not to drop that bolt…
Yes, Jersey Gloves are wonderful, but they do not fit tight… I have high quality Mechanic gloves, with knuckle guards, My go to “Garden Gloves” came from Walmart, 3 for $3.95. They are elastic nylon, fit tight, and are cheap enough to throw out when they wear out…
No, I do not use these if I am anywhere near a hot exhaust, they would probably melt.
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