I think my Differential module is bad, so I removed the 2 hex bolts.
I have no idea how to fully disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses.
Do I just yank on them as hard as I can?
Is there a release tab somewhere?
Ok, here is a picture of the 2 clips.
Notice that tab/latch looking thing near the top of the harness base.
I tried pressing and pulling on it, but it didn’t budge at all.
So, I can’t even tell if that tab thingy is a latch or not.
It looks like there is a clip that holds a protrusion on the cable clip to the module. There Is a pull at the top of the clip. I usually use a flat blade screw driver to open the clip and pull the cable away from the connector at the same time. The connectors are water-tight and you might have to rock it to loosen it up. Once the locking knob on the cable side gets past the clasp you are pryin up, you can release the screw driver and pull the connector off. It looks like a screw driver might not fit easily given the location. Maybe you can pry the clasp back with a finger or a different tool.
Both have a locking tab and in the photo it shows up best on connector “A”.
It is the red tab shown above the arrow that you show. Just push up on the red tab towards the direction of the wires.
Are you saying I need to pull UP on the upper hole tab? This would expose the red band, to indicate that it is unlocked? I do NOT press the latch in, correct? Because it didn’t budge when I pressed it IN.
Push the red tab up.
In the photo you would be pushing it towards the wires. it will go about 1/4 inch and it’s unlocked, then grasp the plug…not the wires… and pull off.
There is no red tab. I assume the red tab only becomes visible once the latch is lifted up.
Regardless, I broke the tab right off when trying to pry it up with a screwdriver.
Now, I think the car is F’ed.
Even if I tow it to a mechanic, how can anyone ever lift the tab now?
Does this mean the car needs to be junked?
If you can not ever disconnect that wire now, do you need to rewire everything leading up to that connection, including getting a new module ?
“Does this mean the car needs to be junked?”
Is that a real question . . . ?!
Do you have a real answer? How can the wire be disconnected when the tab is broken.
Sounds to me that it can never be removed, which renders the car a very large paperweight.
Pull the connector out. The tab held It in place, and it doesn’t serve that function anymore. You may be able to hold it in place with electrical tape.
No, the wire is still firmly seated in the plug. The tab was not moved, it was only snapped at the very top. The top edge does not retain anything. But, the bottom part of the tab is intact, underneath the housing. If that makes sense. It’s like I ripped the handle off a suitcase. That doesn’t mean the suitcase can now open. What an absolute joke of an engineering. Borderline scam.
A guy breaks off a wire connector and now the whole car is an engineering scam? Really? Get your pocket screwdriver or pick out, and take a close look at the connector and retaining tab after cleaning all the dirt and debris out. You’ll see how to release it. It’s that simple for anyone with some mechanical aptitude.
Look at the picture that you copied from a book. The red tab is clearly visible there, so follow along with my explanation pertaining to that picture.
The Red tab on connector “A” is what pulls up the 1/4 inch. If that is broken off on your connector you will have to fish the rest out with a pick or bent wire, or something.
The tab is an upside-down “U” shape.
You may have to bend a small stiff wire,. place it in that square hole, and try to push the two sides of the broken clip up. If that top is broken off, both pieces will have to be pulled up separately.
But yea…the cars junk!!! I’ll give you a dollar for it.
Not sense going into Red Alert just yet. It will come loose and broken lock tabs are common; unfortunately. New plastic is not so bad; aged brittle plastic and/or hardened rubber can be.
If there’s concern about putting it back together with a broken tab and you don’t want to venture into connector replacement, soldering, etc then bind it with a nylon tie wrap.
Have you checked that there aren’t two tabs on each plug that have to be squeezed together to release the plug? Also, can you confirm that the smooth black plastic parts should remain while the inner rubber parts are pulled out?
One thing I’ve found through experience about many automotive connecting plugs is that they needs to be pressed together while pushing the release tab in. The tabs actually have a “hook” end on the tab to prevent them from working loose. It operates like the spur on the end of a fishhook. Pushing the connector together disengages the hook so the tab can be pushed in and the plug disconnected.