quick question i have finally flared and connected the new lines but its still leaking brake fluid threw the fittings can I just put telfon tape on the treads and reattach them or is there something else i should try the fluid is flowing but it leaking threw the treads or the side where the fiting flares
Start all over.
These are called flare fittings.
Which means once they’re tightened they can’t leak.
How’s that $200 sounding now?
Tester
To Caddyman and GSC. If you need new brakepipes anywhere in Europe and buy them readymade - you get them in copper. For longer than I care to remember, we’ve always replaced steelpipes with copperpipes, then you don’t have to worry about them ever again. The copperpipes on my Minor was already fitted, when I bought it 23 years ago and they are still perfekt. You can also buy copperpipe in lenghts and get the correct fittings in brass for any vehicle. Easier to work with, cheaper, easy to flare and never rusts. Off course, its not the same “type” tubing as you would use in a house.
Big mistake to try and do this. This is NOT a project for a first time DIY’er. Your safety and, more important, MY safety depends on you having good brakes. Asking if Teflon tape would stop the leak indicates you need a pro to do this. Please!
You are probably jst doing a single flare and these need to be a double flare.
if your kit does not contain the adapters…like the 5 shown on the left…then you are doing a single flare.
Brake lines are a double flare.
Yosemite
Asterix; Those were most likely copper plated to try to protect the steel line from rusting.
Yosemite
You cannot patch leaks using tape. You either messed up the flare (not a double, not square to the end) or the line split or some other defect occurred when you did the flaring.
There is nothing quite so frustrating as to do a double flare on original lines up tight against a frame rail or chassis. Forget about that. Just strip it back to the first accessible connector and replace it all the way to the next one. The line is cheap in comparison. Eliminate the need for flaring by taking up slack in premade lines by s curves or looping. You must support the replacement line either through existing clips or new ones. You can buy the clips if you need them. Do not coat anything with undercoating, that will just promote more rust because you will never get it clean enough or properly covered. If the line is exposed where tires can kick up debris, you need gravel guard (wire wrapped around the outside of the line) to protect it.
the pre flared lnes of various lengths and sizes, that are available at parts store work very well.
I for one applaud your efforts, but you have to get these right.
Teflon tape will not help. cleanng the fitting that the flare goes over will help. the flares have to be done right and the fitting that they compress against must be in good shape and clean.
cheap flaring blocks do not work as well as good ones, i would suggest buying the pre fabbed lines
the poster obviously cares about getting his brakes right, and has done much work so far to accomplish this. he will figure this out.
I think his determination and willingness to do this for himself are admirable. he is asking for help, which shows wisdom. I don t think we should discourage him in his efforts.
yes the 200 bucks was a good deal. if he can do this on his own he will benefit monetarily as well as n self confidence and the acquisition of knowledge. saving a 100 bucks is a big deal to a lot of us, and worth the effort.
@Yosemite.
No, they are made only of copper. Trust me (well, if You don’t, it’s okay with me).
yes the 200 bucks was a good deal. if he can do this on his own he will benefit monetarily as well as n self confidence and the acquisition of knowledge. saving a 100 bucks is a big deal to a lot of us, and worth the effort.
I agree his determination and willingness are admirable. On the other hand by now haveing to do the job 2x he has actually saved nothing, and maybe even spent more after taking into consideration time spent either doing the work or getting replacement/other parts, lost vehicle time, buying parts, buying/renting tools. I guess it all comes down to how much is your time worth to you. Me personally, I would have paid the $200 just for the peace of mind, no aggravation, and getting the car back on the road quickly. Even though I am familiar with line bending and flaring.
yes, I agree. now that I m older I would prefer to pay others to work on my car every time. it s not worth the pain, even tho the feeling of accomplishment is nice. I was at the point where I could do that. a few misfortunes changed every thing. now, every dollar counts
even if he only saves a few bucks in the end, those bucks might be very important to him, as they now are to me.
there are also long term benefits to learning things and acquiring tools. the knowledge and experience and tools he gets from this may serve him and save him money for many years to come. he may also end up helping someone else in a jam one day. the intangibles are hard to measure.
I think we basically agree. we should just remember that what makes sense for one person may not for another because they may be n different circumstances and lead a different life.
@asterix, how is galvanic corrosion prevented where the copper meets steel?
That’s why the brass fittings. That’s preventing any interaction/galvanic corrosion at the joints. Also you have to isolate the pipe from steel along the route to comply with the law. The car will fail the biannual inspektion if not done so. Pieces of rubber hoses cut lenghtwise and placed on the right places or plastic clips are the usual methods. That said, I’ve seen my share of cars where those preventative measures had not been done, and there were still no galvanic corrosion, I do not know why, But I have also seen stainless steel welded to ordinary steel and that should cause the same problem. Again, no corrosion at all. With regards to copper versus steel, I’ve been told that the brass fittings works like an “inhibitor” (I don’t know if that’s the correct word in English), like the aluminum rod in a waterheater to prevent corrosion. If this is true, I don’t know.
Those “copper” lines are more than likely Kunifer (Cunifer tm) tubing which is a copper/nickel alloy. The nickel adds some hardness to improve fatigue performance which is an issue with pure copper. They have been around since I can recall and were gaining popularity until the price of copper went through the roof…
@twinturbo
You sent me on a mission and I believe You are correct, Sir. I found an add with the description on copper brake pipe with the formula Cu/NI.
Kunifer tubing - okay, learnt something new today. That’s good.
Seems that the roof is at a somewhat higher altitude over here.
By the way, they are still not harder other than you can easily bend and shape them with your fingers.
Some might wanna take a look at this Swedish pic.where you can see all the different brakepipes for a Volvo P1800:
https://www.google.dk/search?q=cu/ni+bremserør&sa=N&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=F4XFU4_pDcjnywOfqoCgBw&ved=0CDYQsAQ4Cg&biw=1440&bih=795#facrc=&imgdii=&imgrc=BfQX48Qf9KQjrM%253A%3B6D0OsthWseaOPM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F4.bp.blogspot.com%252F-jUk1mFvMQtM%252FUoIHLmR6c0I%252FAAAAAAAAAaQ%252FJ7bCGUqUgJE%252Fs1600%252FIMG_4263.JPG%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fvolvop1800-hymoeller.blogspot.com%252F2013_11_01_archive.html%3B1600%3B1200
Oopps, that was a long link.
To Asterix- I have seen on Wheeler Dealers brake lines being replaced with copper and I was agast. Steel is the only brake line used in the US and it is the only brake line legal in NY state except for short flexible sections at the wheels or at the rear axle.
@Oldtimer
I know, but I don’t understand why??. Can someone enlighten me.
Just did a quick look at bursting pressures, copper up to 800 psi, brake line lowest was 2300 psi bursting pressure. Copper is not strong enough, my guess. Internet average seems to be 9 to 1200 psi for the calipers to work properly.
I do have to admit that I did once repair a brake line with copper and a couple of compression fittings…it was a temporary fix until I got home to the shop and the proper tools. Now in the a truck toolbox, I keep a couple of compression fittings and a piece of brake line.
The only problem, is that I set that up when I drove a Ranger and my Dakota may have a different size line.
Yosemite