How Do I Flush A Gas Tank On A 1968 Camaro
You have to remove it first. Why do you want to flush it? Tell us the real problem and we might have an answer for you.
Well i just retrieved my moms old 1968 camaro 350 that had been in a garage untouched for about 15 years. i siphned out all the old gas, changed the oil and oil filter, changed the spark plugs and spark plug wires. and then put some gas back in her but i have been told that i may need to flush the tank because it had gas in it for such along time and i dont want that old stuff being sucked into the engine. I this is unnessesary please let me know. The crankshaft turns so to my knowledge i am supossed to detatch the coil and try and get it to turn over. please let me know what i am going to need to replace and the process of doing it. Thanks
You have a pretty cool car here and one that will only appreciate in value.
Due to the age of the car and the fact that it’s been sitting 15 years I would advise dropping the gas tank out of it and taking a look inside.
Over time they can scale up with rust and when this happens you will be plagued with chronic fuel filter, pump, and carb problems and may be sitting on the side of the road a lot.
If the tank needs replacement they are easy to find in the aftermarket. I think someone now is repopping them in stainless steel and that would mean kissing rust problems goodbye forever.
Another option might be to borrow or rent a bore scope and take a look inside the tank. You might get lucky.
If its been in a garage for fifteen years, it should be in better shape than one left outdoors for that long. Just the fact thats its a 68 could mean that it has rust and scale in the gas tank.
I think I would look for the largest after market fuel filter I could find and put it in the fuel line and just drive it. If you start having problems, then drop the tank and hose it out, let it air dry and then inspect the bottom most part of the tank for any weakness that my become leaks. If all looks good, put her back in and go.
I just wanted to join the ranks of all the jealous drivers in the world who would kill for this car. This was my dream car when I was 15. They were around $1995.00 new, and I cried for one at birthday and Christmas. You are lucky, and smart for turning to this site for help. Hope all goes well, and keep us posted.
Not sure why you would disconnect the coil wire and crank the engine. Some think that is to build up oil pressure before starting. To me, doesn’t matter whether the engine is running without oil pressure or just cranking, its not good. but it happens everytime you start an engine.
Seems that I recall that you can pull the distributor, the gear on the camshaft that drives the distributor and below that is the shaft to the oil pump. You chuck something up in a drill, insert it into the slot in the shaft and use the drill to pump oil through out the engine.
After 15 years, if the oil pump is completely dry, you may have to take it out and fill it with vaseline to get it to prime again. Thats how you used to prime the oil pumps back then when you put in a new one. Racers used to do the drill thing right before starting their engines. Just make sure you get the gear back in the correct spot and then line up the distributor so that the timing isn’t off.
I would do all this with the engine at top dead center or the timing marks where you want the distributor to fire, usually 6? BTDC (before top dead center) on the No 1 cylinder. Then when you put it all back in, turn on the ignition to run, then turn the distributor back and forth until the points spark as they open. Stop right at this point and the timing should be very close to spec.
siphon out all the gas you can. Add 5 gallons of fresh gas. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and GENTLY pressurize the fuel tank by placing a blow-gun in the fuel filler sealed with a rag. Have a helper catch the fuel that comes out the open line. Run it until it comes out clean. The stock fuel filter is inside the carburetor fuel inlet. I would replace it.
Problems to expect. The fuel that dried up in the carburetor may have plugged it up, but try to start it and see what happens before you remove the carb and have it rebuilt (or rebuild it yourself). This car has points ignition and a stone-age ignition system in general. It will probably have to be freshened up before the car will run properly.
I would not pull the distributor and try to spin the oil pump as someone suggested. That’s more trouble than it’s worth. I WOULD drain the old oil and replace the filter, then pour in 3 or 4 gallons of fresh oil and turn the engine over by hand a few turns, drain the oil, fill to proper level, and attempt to start the engine. I would do this outdoors and have a fire extinguisher handy (or garden hose) “just in case.” Have the air cleaner off so you can observe the carb. If gas overflows, (out the vent tubes) it will have to be rebuilt before you can proceed. You probably should change ALL the fluids, including the brake fluid. At some point, all the rubber belts, hoses, brake lines will have to be changed.
All of the '68 Camaros that were hidden away in garages for 15 years were found and put into service 14 years ago. But we all have our sweet dreams…
Turning the oil pump shaft with a drill is a good idea. I’ve done it with every engine I’ve ever built.
It pumps oil through all of those oil galleys and nooks and crannies (crank journal, cam journal, lifters, valve train, etc) that oil is not going to reach by allowing it to set.
It’s less than a 10 minute deal to do this.
Not sure why you would disconnect the coil wire and crank the engine. Some think that is to build up oil pressure before starting. To me, doesn’t matter whether the engine is running without oil pressure or just cranking, its not good. but it happens everytime you start an engine
That’s true but this engine has sat idle for quite a few years. There’s no oil up top anymore and you want to make sure that the oil is flowing good before the engine runs. The best method is by removing the dist, the next best to to use cranking power and the last option is to start it. I wouldn’t risk the damage for a very little inconvenience to do it right.
There may be a fuel sock in the tank. They tend to degrade over time. If you don’t have the patience to drop the tank, install a back up fuel filter as mentioned already. Cheap insurance IMO.
Personally I think this car is too troublesome and you should sell it ASAP. I’d be willing to take it off your hands as a FAVOR for a few thousand…
Needless to say…this really is a GREAT car and MANY of use would LOVE to own one. I wish I never sold mine.
There are potentially a lot of problems for a car sitting this long…However NONE are that difficult to fix.
Caddyman has a good idea about getting the bad fuel out. As for the filter…I’d REMOVE that JUNK in-carb filter and cut the gas line someplace and insert a much larger filter like a Fram F-1. It’ll filter the gas a LOT better then the stock in-carb filter.
At 15yo…Even if it starts I’d look at getting rebuilding the carb.
You can either go completly stock…OR you can modernize the vehicle. There are MANY MANY aftermarket parts/kits for this car. You can put a completely NEW suspensions system…4-disc brakes…Electronic Ignition…Computer controled fuel-injection system. This is one car that I’d start parking my truck outside for and have a great time rebuilding it during the winter.
As for value…I was watching this show on the discovery channel where they take a old car and completely restore it (usually with modern parts). One time they rebuilt a 68 Camaro. They bought one from a junk yard with NO engine/tranny or interior…And had a lot of rust…FOR $5000. Completely rebuilt it with modern engine…tranny…interior…new metal where the rust was…new suspension…new electronics. Sold at auction for OVER $75k.
I also have another problem i cant seem to figure out how to remove the window cranks. any solutions?
A new fuel pump is cheap. Replace it.
Itf it’s like other GM cars that I have known, there is a wire clip on the backside of the crank. Push the door liner back while pulling out on the handle to see the clip. There is a special tool to grab the clip but I just used a piece of coathanger wire with a short hook bent on the end. A small flat bladed screwdriver might work too. Watch the clip carefully as it might go flying and use safety glasses too.
The window cranks had a little clip that needs to be removed. Push in on the door panel around the crank and you should see the clip that attaches to the crank. Get in there with a screwdriver and push it out. When the clip is off then just pull the crank straight off.
A easy way to get the crank back on…Put the clip on the window crank FIRST…Then just push the crank on…The clip just snaps into place.
Another cool way to remove them is with a shop rag. Push the door panel in just a bit and then slide the middle of the rag in between the panel and the handle. Then just twist the rag around the handle and hold on to the ends while you turn the crank. The clip gets caught on the rag and pops right off. Pull the handle off and the clip is sitting in the rag. Works like a charm and no risk of scratching the panel.
I’m pretty sure that if old fuel didn’t clog it up, all the rubber in the carburetor and fuel pump will be rotted. Rebuild/replacement will be necessary. Same for all rubber parts, brake lines, coolant/heater hoses and fuel lines.