We are trying to decide what a 1996 had.
It seems that NOBODY knows!!
Right! Adhdork lost interest when WE had a question of him. Nice!
Where on the engine would I look? All I can pseudo read are the tags on individual components, but those are too faded.
def. fuel injection, and it’s the 4.3L
I don’t know if this has anything to do with identifying codes, but the truck’s VIN has an X in it…?
nono!! I didn’t see the question until just now - I’ve been trying to get enough tips at work to get a pressure gauge. I did, and it’s only reading 50-55 psi when it should be at least 60 - and only when the tank is banged on.
And no worries about me losing interest - outside of my go-sticks, I’ve got no other means of reliable transportation. I do have a rather extreme case of ADHD, but I’ve got plenty of coffee and lots of time it seems…
So I was finally able to get my hands on a pressure gauge. The pressure didn’t register when I was trying to start until I banged on the tank. Even then, it got up to 50…55 psi.
It might be a good idea… I hear it’s great for skin exfoliation 
Fuse checked - all’s good there
Yeah, they let me reference what I need when I’m there…when I’m talking limited funds, it took me awhile to gather enough to get the pressure gauge. I’m waiting for Monday’s paycheck to see about possibly getting a pump or tackling the injectors.
The most recent development (as of Friday, 7/31), the shrader valve read 50-55 psi when cranking the engine and banging on the tank. I think it should be 60-65 psi…?
If the X was the 8th digit in the VIN that means Sequencial Fire Multi Port,we have a winner,hellokit wins! and Wikipedia su*** or I don’t Know how to read it.
haha
"The [fuel] pressure didn’t register when I was trying to start until I banged on the tank. Even then, it got up to [only] 50…55 psi. "
This need to bang on the tank, may be from bad contacts inside the fuel pump. It may be poor wiring connections in a wiring connector, or where a grounding wire bolts to the body, frame, or tank.
For now, don’t worry if the fuel pressure may be 5 psi low. Don’t concern yourself with that until you get the engine running, consistently.
Very firmly, and safely, support the truck while you are under it.
Disconnecting, and reconnecting, a wiring connector has a wiping action. It can help get better electrical connection, by doing the disconnect, reconnect.
Disconnect, and reconnect, the wiring that goes to the gas tank. Look for any wire(s) bolted, or screwed to body, frame, or tank. Loosen, and tighten the bolt (or, screw) several times. This can restore a good ground connection.
Put the fuel pressure gauge on, and bleed the fuel pressure to zero. While watching the gauge, turn the ignition key ON for four seconds; then, OFF. The fuel pressure will go to 20 - 40 psi. Do the ON, OFF, again. The fuel pressure goes higher. Again. And, the fuel pressure goes to full value (55 psi, or so). This is normal. It might go all the way up on the first ON. That’s OK.
Results?
Here are some very good mini-videos on troubleshooting electric fuel pumps: http://www.carterfueldelivery.com/fuelpumps/fuel_sys_diagnostics.php# The videos are presented by Carter; but, they apply to any electric fuel pump. Just click on the blue menu items for each short video. [Your fuel system is a “return” type.]
So I disconnected, then reconnected the wiring that goes to the gas tank. I connected the pressure gauge and bled it until zero to prime it. I turned the key ON for four seconds and watched the pressure go to 20. I turned it OFF for a bit, then ON for another four seconds. The pressure went to 35…40 psi. I turned the key OFF for a bit, then ON for another four seconds - no change to the pressure.
I bled the gauge to zero again and attempted the same process. The pressure gauge read 15 psi after the first time I turned the key ON and didn’t change after subsequent turns. I disconnected and reconnected the wiring again and started the process over.
During the third attempt, I first bled the gauge to zero and turned the key ON for four seconds. The guage went to 15 psi and stayed there after I turned the key OFF for a bit and then ON for four seconds.
I think that I’m going to have to check the voltage drop next, but there are four wires going into the connection. Attached are some pictures I took this afternoon of the connections and of the fuel tank/filter for location perspective.
Btw, all four of the connections are clear - no ash or burns from arcing and no melted insulation or deformed wiring from overheating.
Also, if you look close, the yellow clip on the connection broke off during removal. The connection itself is connected rather firm, and it takes some effort to disconnect.
I know I have harped on it quite a bit but what the whooo I will do it again.GM fuel pumps are very bad and are a weak spot,change them as a maintiance item.
I don’t like anecdocal eviedience but it seems to always turn out to be the pump on a GM. Not the filter, not the ignition switch,not the relay,not the wiring,not the PCM just those darn pumps.
Yeah - that link you gave with the Carter Fuel Delivery videos is epically useful (and they seem to have a lot of GM replacement pumps/advice on burnt out connections/etc…), but I have a Chevrolet - do they have similar pumps?
I’ve no idea what to do at this point - although I am leaning towards the pump (I don’t know if it’s because of evidence that I’m obtaining as objectively as possible or that I’m thinking that the pump would be an easier fix). At least from the information I’ve received from this forum, I’m certainly not back at square one.
Would I be right when I say that the last thing that I’ve got to check before I determine the state of the fuel pump is the voltage drop at the connection? I’ll either head out to the parts store to pick up a multimeter in a bit or wait until Monday’s check to get the pump and do some replacement.
Do you have 4 friends and the correct socket for the bolts holding the bed on? If you do thats the way to do it,just walk the bed back so it rests on the rear tires and you have acces to the pump wiring and hoses. its the hose that are such a pain to deal with.
Then you can back-probe the electrical connectors (if you feel its necessary) or just put a pump in.
Yes Chevrolet has the same pump problems. Make sure you get a pump for SMPI and not a CPI or TBI pump,they all look a like.
Whew…! Paycheck was just enough to cover the fuel pump and my final rent check. I didn’t want to muddy up the story with why I needed it done so fast/bad (beyond the need for a vehicle), but here’s a synopsis:
I’m getting ready to move out of my apartment with my band to get ready to move into a house (we’re in limbo until then to save up for a down payment and to finish paying off our new album ::crosses fingers::). We finished recording last Thursday, and I was set to help a fellow bandmate move out that Friday. My truck barely started when I got off of work, and I was unable to drive to work, much less help someone move. I’ve been using O’Reilly’s as my second home when I get off - and about $400 went into the whole project…everything that I had saved up to the point for the album/down payment.
Needless to say, I was scared shitless about my truck. I would have to sell everything that I couldn’t move, and being the only one in the band with what used to be a reliable means of transportation, I would have to live with whatever I could walk out with.
Oldschool, Hellokit, Kmccune (Kevin), EllyEllis, Ok4450, Bing, Edb1961, Thank you all for helping me keep everything that I have. I am sincerely appreciative.
As far as the music that I play, it’s more along the lines of progressive metal - it’s kind’ve ridiculous if you’re into the screamo/melodic metal genre 
http://www.forthemostpartband.com
Our website/myspace are getting a serious overhaul in the next couple of months before we release our album, but there was a chance that would’ve been seriously delayed without your help.
Thanks again!
Major
You changed the fuel pump, qui? So, now, she (the truck) work good, jah?!
I checked out your “joyful noise” you linked. Pretty good stuff over pc speakers; but, the distortion on the strings is rather high. Is that intentional, and part of being “metal”?
Oh, yeah, break a leg!