01 accord. Front wheel bearing is very loose. It had so much wobble the steel dust cover for abs sensor was in pieces. Every thing I have read says there should be a large c-clip on the inner side of bearing and the outer side. So 2? There is no groove n this pic for a c-clip. I cannot even see a seam for where the bearing is pressed into the bore. The midsize bore to the left is for the balljoint. The smallest bore at the back is for abs sensor. Does anyone see a separation between the bearing and bore?
I turned pic so I can see more of the seam.
If you press down on splined hub won’t the bearing just tear apart? How do you press the outer race out if it is under this knuckle lip?
Isn’t that the groove for the c-clip where the arrow is drawn in Nevada’s post?
If it bottoms out on a lip in the casting, it may not be possible to press it out without ruining it in the pressing process. Maybe on this design once it is pressed it, there it remains until it gets replaced with a new one.
I had a press once. It is gone now. dad used it for taking apart alternators/starters. Never tore into a Honda style fwd bearing setup before. I suppose it does not matter much if I am paying a shop to do it. I was expecting to see an inner c-clip. There is none. You can press out the splined hub or use a puller to yank it out. If bearing is ruined, no issue. It is being replaced.
You could probably rig up something that would do the same job, using a hydraulic bottle jack. I made a home-brew press to remove pressed in pins used in electronic gadgets (like video tape recorders) that way, built an “H” structure out of 2 x 4 lumber and some c-clamps is all.
A guy on CL has 2 presses for sale. With no bottle jacks or lift springs. He says there are cheap due to missing parts. $55. No pics. I think they are “general” brand which is Chinese harbor freight stuff? Probably table top model? 36" tall? Saw a u-tube video of harbor freight unit which may be the unit.
I can’t say for certain, but I believe the groove and clip are on the other side
You won’t see them until you press out the hub. that is the first step
Once you press the hub out, yes, the bearing will be destroyed
The outer race will come out with the hub, and you’ll have to use a bearing splitter type of puller and press to separate it from the hub. Or you can carefully remove it with an air hammer and the appropriate bit
And after that, the next step is to press out the remainder of the actual bearing
That is assuming this setup is anything like the ones I remember. It’s actually been a few years since I’ve pressed out a bearing. One of our fleet’s equipment operators brought in a VW hub with a rough bearing. I replaced it using the shop press . . . during my lunch hour, naturally . . . and he brought me a nice hot quizno’s sandwich the next day
shop said hub is bad since it may have spun on bearing race and I tend to believe it seeing how bad the bearing was. shop has a used hub for 20 vs 60 for new. it is napa and I do buy parts there often but they are pretty tight as far as matching the chain outfits like autozone and orielly. I am pretty sure the pass side bearing is bad also. I knew replacing bearings was out of my work zone since I don’t have a press.
Is the brake rotor captive in this system? Were there 4 bolts that held the brake rotor to the hub? In the 97 Honda’s, the brake rotor held everything in place with those 4 bolts. There were no c-clips. You pressed the hub out with the bearing attached to it, then pulled the bearing off using a press.
hubs are as cheap as 15 online. bearings are as cheap as 10. shipping is 10 or so than you have to provide the labor.
Looks just like the Camry bearings I am doing right now.
You can easily drive the hub out by using an appropriate sized socket and 5lb sledge. Pops out rather easily and the “front” side of the bearing with it.
I salvaged the first hub by heating the inner race (still stuck on the hub) and driving a chisel between it and the hub until I could get a puller on it. Second one I decided just to spring for a new hub- $37 and no work on my part.
Then I took the parts to a machine shop so they could use their 40 ton press to push the remnants of the bearing out of the knuckle. Trick he used was to use one hammer strike on the bearing and the cap came off other side (along with the guts), then flipped it over and used that to press out the bearing.
The clips can be a real bear. I soak them in penetrating oil (B’laster or Deep Creep) and tap around them with a drift to loosen them up before using the snap ring pliers on them. A big needle nose might work.
The machine shop took all of 10 minutes to press out old bearing, clean up bore, grease bore and press in bearing, insert clip and then flip over and press in hub. $40. Just came back from lunch with them…
Went together fine. Other side seems ok except for upper ball joint. I suppose bearing and lower ball joint should be replaced.
car had misfire too.
I drove car to check wheel bearing issue and abs light came on.
I fixed misfire (bad coil)
cleared code. motor runs fine now.
code reader says no codes now.
but, abs light is on dash.
cheap code reader cannot read abs codes?
You’re going to have to invest about $200 or more to buy a code reader that does abs
But don’t expect much . . . it’ll read codes and show limited data, don’t expect any abs functional tests