I may not have read that. Thanks! I’m still in the dark about the sequence. But I’m happy enough to forget all if she doesn’t have more followup. The mystery is now better than the real thing 
Wow! I was just looking them up now and read about the resurrection. When I encountered them on old cars, over forty years ago I think, I thought they were dinosaurs and so obsolete then that few even knew about them. What a mess too!
I think you can make a claim to knowing your oil filters!
Seems the cartridge filter is the way they’re going again. First time I changed the oil on the Highlander, I was scratching my head looking for the filter for a few minutes. Less landfill, cheaper to produce the cartridge filters, I guess. I prefer the spin on for DIY purposes, but the cartridge on the Toyota isn’t really a big hassle.
I just wish they’d install external transmission filters and drain plugs on them all.
Naw had one of those on our 58 Chevy. Used a turkey baster to suck the oil out.
I think you said it, it had a weak weak spot. Or, it was put on loosely, and loosened more over time.
Let us also note that the old 1950’s cartridge filters only filtered a small portion of the circulating oil. I’m assuming that, since “regular” oil filters are full flow, today’s cartridge filters are also?
I thought they all filtered a portion of the oil, to some extent, but I may be wrong. I assume some amount of oil bypasses the filter. I can’t see it all going through a canister (or cartridge) filter when you’re cruising at 70 down the interstate with the oil pressure at 60 psi.
My understanding is that the bypass relief valve in the filter (either type) opens when the filter becomes clogged, allowing continued oil circulation, and that a clean filter handles 100% of the oil pump output. But I could be wrong.
Not that it matters but back then, the cartridge (as well as the spin on) filters were changed every other oil change. I can’t remember exactly when but sometime in the 80’s I think when we started changing the filter every oil change. Now it’s just SOP.
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I always thought that it was best to install and tighten a spin-on oil filter only with my hands, no tools at all. It’s possible to over tighten one with someone’s hands, maybe, but not mine. With a tool it’s too easy. Some new filters are so hard to get to it feels impossible to get it tight with fingers alone, but I really try.
Installing an oil filter would be simpler for the diy’er if the manufacturer would specify it something like this: “tighten by hand until the gasket is just touching, then another 3/4 turn.” Or whatever was tested as best by the engineers back at the factory. “Hand tight” is ambiguous, depends on access and how strong your hands are.
At the Sohio station in the '70s we always changed the filter, never just the oil.
Like step # 3? I believe they all instruct 3/4 or one turn after contact. It can be done by hand, you don’t need a special service tool or a degree wheel.
This is really good information.
As I recall, the gasket was taken off to check it out.
Thanks for the TSB
Many vehicles back in the 70’s and even 80’s the manufacturer’s oil change recommendation was to change filter every other oil change. I ALWAYS changed filter every time. Seems stupid to leave a pint (or less) of dirty in the engine by not changing the filter.
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When I was changing oil professionally in the 70s, we also never changed just the oil. Perhaps the every-other business was part of the 3,000 mile oil change recomendation.