Hi everyone,
So I’m currently serving my niece’s 2013 Rav4.
I’m trying to change the spark plugs but can’t figure out how to remove them. I’ve got a spark plug socket but when I put it down the channel it just spins and doesn’t catch the hex of the plug. Upon further inspection it looks like the plug has a hex cap over the plug?
Yes, it’s the right spark plug socket but it just spins and doesn’t grip.
Nevertheless have you seen this type of hex cap on top of a spark plug? I have never seen this before.
Gee, I don’t know. But I don’t think so. When I removed the coil it came out as one piece and didn’t look like it was missing anything. I looked down the coil barrel and saw a spring at the end.
Here you can see what was still left on the 2 spark plugs after I got them out… as well as all the little rubber that had to be picked away and pulled out…
The end of the coil boot is stuck on the spark plug. That’s what I see when looking at your picture. That’s keeping the socket from fully seating on the plug.
Everything looks complete as one piece.
I haven’t bought new plugs just yet as I want to see if the current plugs are iridium, in which case I’ll just clean them up.
It is possible someone has already replaced a coil and that is from the old coil still stuck on the plug… I would check other plugs to see if the socket fits them…
I’ll just come out and ask…is it a true spark plug socket - the kind with the rubber boot inside of it that grips the plug insulator? And have you used one to do plugs before? The rubber insert in the socket will normally hang and keep it from just dropping on, so you have to turn and push down on it. It will click onto the hex once aligned.
I have had the rubber insert on the socket come loose too and you have to push it back in. I dunno, you buy the plugs and use the socket that fits. Some of these plugs are brittle and you could damage them trying to clean them. Then you would owe her an engine. If you go to the trouble of pulling the plug, just replace it. You cannot re-gap some of these.
Why is it always someone doing a favor that escalates?
Sometimes a spark plug socket isn’t the best tool to use. In those cases, a high quality, thin wall deep socket is better because it doesn’t have any internal ribbing that most spark plug sockets have. The hex goes all the way to the top so it clears anything that may be stuck to the plug. A set of those is a worthy investment, the deeper the socket, the better.
Thin wall because sometimes the less expensive sockets have thicker walls because they use inferior steel and the thicker walls do not clear the bore of the hole the spark plug is in. Those spark plug socket sets you see on a card at your big box stores often have very thick walls.
I still think it is the rubber insert on the socket. Time to get out the long needle nose or forceps to find out. Just curious how you would pull the plug out of the hole or put the new one in without a plug socket though.
DMP’s advise above to make sure the socket fits the new spark plugs seems a good first step. I’ll add that when I change my Corolla’s spark plugs sometimes the rubber insert (part of the special spark plug socket) sticks to the spark plug when I remove the socket. This can cause much grief if not noticed. The other grief producing event when the plugs are in a deep well like that, the socket sometimes sticks to the spark plug and doesn’t come out with the extension. Both problems require very long & narrow-jaw forceps type pliers. I usually duct-tape the extension to the socket to help solve the socket sticking to the plug problem.
LOL - on the subject of the socket being left behind on the plug, I have a dedicated plug socket/extension - you know with duct tape to hold it together. Got tired of fishing in there with the needle nose.
This is what Napas Pro site shows when you are looking up parts… I am sure they have different options across the pond and south of the border then us…