My oil pan is leaking. I’m going to replace it because the oil pan is starting to rot, and so are some of the bolts and nuts. I plan on replacing the fasteners to as a result of them rotting, very badly. Don’t think they can be reused. This is for the engine.
Is there any way to look up what the bolts, nuts, and threaded rods are without removing one? I’m scared to do so without being prepared to replace them. I have a 2005 Camry, 2AZ-FE engine.
Nut = 90179-06326
Bolt = 90119-06848
Threaded Rod = 90126-06015
I can’t find any information on these fasteners as far as their ratings, length or diameter. Is there anyway to look this information up?
I found a video of someone doing this online, with fasteners that could be reused. The heads of the bolts are 10 mm, and they have the following marking on the head
Thanks for any help on identifying the length, diameter, and class of these fasteners. I tried searching online for oil pan bolts for this car, to see if I could get this information, and couldn’t find anything.
I’d rather not buy the parts directly from Toyota.
Replacing them is the least of your problems. Breaking them off in the block is a far more difficult problem to solve.
Find a local Fastenal, Grainger or a well, stocked hardware store. You need a source that carries a wide range of metric fasteners. When you start working on the car, any fasteners you need to replace, you can then source from those stores. That is the best direct solution as these are NOT critical fasteners. Match length and thread pitch on a bolt 5.8 or higher. You might need to add a washer if you can’t buy a flange head bolt or nut.
First off, what you call a threaded rod is a stud. This will be harder to find locally and is best purchased from Toyota. In fact, given your OCD about fasteners, buying ALL from Toyota is best. The labor and anxiety savings is well worth any additional cost.
What does “rot” mean? Metal doesn’t rot. The picture looks dirty (what oil pan isn’t?) not rusted. It doesn’t look like there would be any need to remove the studs. Can the oil pan be dropped without removing the frame cross-member that supports the engine?
I too am curious what is meant by “rot”? I could see a metal car part being thoroughly “rusted”…but only if the car was like 50+ years old. This is a 2005…
And I also second getting the replacement parts from Toyota, or a Toyota distributor. That will ensure the parts work correctly, and eliminate a lot of the guesswork you’re going through now.
I’d recommending removing 1 of each of the 3 different fasteners, then taking those to fastenal to match them up. I would check the Toyota price too, though. Sometimes you can get oem parts online at some of the large volume dealers pretty reasonably. I’ve order from Olathe Toyota and gotten parts at about a 30-40% discount compared to the local dealer pricing. I’m not sure if the larger volume places stock those fasteners, but it’s worth a shot. May can search online with the part number.
I’d also recommend soaking the fasteners with pb blaster or the equivalent overnight and hitting them with a wire brush to get any built up rust/road goo off the heads of the fasteners.
I think he’s just referring to rust when he says rot. I’ve heard the term “body rot” quite a bit when referring to rust in the body. Even the term “cancer”.
Another thing - are you sure it’s the oil pan gasket leaking, and not oil running down from another source (like the rear main crankshaft bearing)? If so, removing the oil pan is just the beginning of your journey.
Yea I’m pretty sure it’s the oil pan gasket. I don’t understand how it works. Why 12 bolts and two studs with nuts? Why can’t it just have been 14 bolts?
For bolts, measure this distance between opposite flats, that gives you the wrench size. From that you can usually figure out the bolt size (which is the diameter of the threaded part of the bolt and smaller than the wrench size.) My guess, those are 6 mm bolts, requiring a 10 mm wrench/socket.
BTW, I’m thinking you could probably clean them back to good as new with a little wire brushing. Unless the repair manual says “no”, you’ll probably get better leak-free results if you use the spray-on Permatex product when you put on the new gasket. Also be sure to use Toyota’s torque specifications, don’t over-torque, and tighten them in the order the repair manual suggests. You can see some pretty cool stuff under that pan, use this opportunity to take some photos.
This person in another of his many threads says that in this automotive class he is taking they disasembled an engine. So he should have an idea of what is to be seen when the oil pan is off.
Something tells me even with this class, he will do quite poorly in automotive repair if he can’t figure out such a basic thing as sourcing a simple bolt.
I just changed my oil. Is it a bad idea to drain the oil into a brand new oil collection, and just pour the same oil back in? I have less than 500 miles on it. Also, from observing the leaks, the from the factory way of doing it was a white RTV gasket maker. I see it sticking out from the sides where the oil pan meets the block. I get a rubber gasket online for the oil pan. I don’t think it really matters, but I find it odd they just used RTV over a gasket. They used one from the factory for the valve cover.
I don’t see a problem with reusing the same oil since it’s being drained into a new drain pan.
About 6 months ago I reused the transmission fluid in my Lincoln after having to replace the pan because of hitting some road debris and cracking the original.
Too much low miles fluid to waste by dumping it and best of all the replacement came with a drain plug.
