Help diaganose VW passat problem

Have more info now based on responses to a previous question. Hope someone can advise.

2001 VW passat with 245,000 miles. Engine light kept coming on mechanic replaced a couple of things having to do with coolant system and said nothing more wrong, just broken light that would cost a bundle to repair, light has been on most of the time for almost a year. Car was running fine. About 20,000 miles ago (6ish months ago) mechanic replaced timing belt. Car was still running fine. Until two weeks ago car suddenly began running so rough it was shaking when you accelerate and entire time you are applying gas. No shaking when ideling. Mechanic says needs new chain tensioner and coil.

Compression test results are: 110 dry, 170 wet, #2 cylinder weak.

Husband thinks mechanic is right, but husband knows nothing about car repair. I wonder if the engine light problem was not diagnosed properly and caused present problem. I know that with this mileage can expect many repairs and that they can be costly. Just hoping for some reader assurance that the mechanic is on the right track. I do not know if he has test driven the car, but sure he has started it and that would duplicate the problem if he stepped on the accelerator.

I suspect the mechanics suggestions to fix the problem are correct. You can replace the timing parts but you are living on borrowed time I think. The engine is in need of a major overhaul and who knows what else is at the end of life on the car. You may find that fixing things as they go wrong is going to cost you more over time.

The difference between wet and dry compression is a strong indication that the rings are shot. The week cylinder only adds to this, and may be an indication of a head gasket failure. I am questioning the chain tensioner, if it has a timing belt, the timing belt tensioner should have been replaced along with the belt when that was done. You to take out the spark plugs and check for fouling, the rough running sounds like missfire. do you get a raw fuel smell from the exhaust pipe? that would tend to confirm missfire. Also, an oil pressure test is in order, bad rings and bad bearings go together. Bad rings by the way are a cause of excessive oil consumption, and that can cause plug fouling.

It’s time to throw in the towel. The piston rings are gone with compression readings like that and based on the wet test. Condolences.

I would have to agree with Caddyman that, at this mileage, with this type of engine problems, it’s the end of the road. With unlimited funds you could keep this baby going, but it makes no sense to any good mechanic, engineer or accountant.

A good, low mileage engine out of a wreck would be the only thing that makes sense here it you want to keep it going. Someone with mechanical skills can do this in his spare time, thus minimizing the $100 per hour shop charges a good mechanic might bill.

German cars are very expensive to repair, and I normally do not recommend them to anyone who is not car savvy and who would not know about the special maintenance needs and expensive upkeep. Cheap US and Japanese cars routinely go to 300,000 trouble free miles with a minimum of engine care. Something you might cosnsider in your next purchase.

I trust the car has served you well and I’d sell it for parts or donate it to get a tax receipt.

You seem to be driving about 40,000 miles a year, that is way too many miles to be driving with a car like this. You need to buy a new (not used) car and maintain it well. Is this car being used for work? You need a per mile budget for repairs, maintenance,and replacement.