Heater core removal

I replaced the compressor on my Blazer 3+ years ago and the parts house insisted that I buy their drier and replace it at the same time in order to get the 1 year warranty. I’ve had to add gas twice this past summer due to a leak on that compressor that has continues to work fine with the old drier.

And what are the chances that when a compressor fails within the 12 month warranty the parts house will replace it and the drier and freon free of charge.

If the dessicant bag is in tact and significant moisture doesn’t enter and remain in the system the drier is almost certain to be usable. I base that on the advice of the local AC parts supplier from long ago.

Ok everyone, the heater core is replaced. No more coolant leaking in the floorboard, no more coolant smell, no more fogged up windshield, buttttttttttt not really blowing hot. Will get semi warm while driving and kinda goes back to blowing cool. And back and forth. Not overheating, full of coolant. Was told it could be my thermostat acting shady but didn’t think it would be that Bc I would assume it would overheat if it was getting stuck closed. I did toy with the bleeder valve screw above the thermostat housing releasing some air bubbles but actually wasn’t getting much air out in my opinion, I know my blend doors are working as far as switching over from cold to hot so anyone know what it could be? Much appreciated

Could be the thermostat stuck open.

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Don’t count on me but I’m going to say it still needs to be bled of air. Are the heater hoses both hot? Possibly you need to elevate the front end a little so it is higher than the core, or stick a screwdriver in the heater hose end to allow air to escape. I’ve never had a Ford, let alone a truck, so wait for a pro to comment.

If blend doors are working, it pretty much has to be the thermostat sticking open or an air pocket in the cooling system. Have you driven it around after the heater core replacement, or did you just test the heat with the car idling in the drive/shop?

It’s a Jeep Liberty lol

Never had a Jeep either but know someone who does. Same answer though.

I drove probably 50 miles this afternoon after changing it. And would come to a stop or red light and it kinda seemed like it was getting warmer idling and taking off it kinda seems like it gets cooler driving but then again it was so sporadic back and forth Idk all I know is it was cycling every few minutes getting cool and getting semi warm and cool again

Well I’m gonna go get a thermostat and we will see what happens

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I think cycling like that means air bubbles. Driving faster pumps more water and overcomes the air bubble. Kinda just like if there was a head gasket issue.

Heater cores are cake to replace.

Step 1… Remove car from Heater Core…

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Bahahaha right

This smacks of a coolant system that is not fully filled with coolant…still containing air pockets.

Fill the overflow up and go thru several hot and cold cycles so the rad can purge the air pockets and replace those pockets with liquid coolant.

OR… the system is full… and the bad heater core cause air pockets…which blew one or more head gaskets. Take your pick

When you say go thru hot and cold cycles u mean me turn the knob from hot to cold several times or let it do it’s thing from going hot and cold while knob is turned to heat only and honestly how would I know if my head gaskets were blown. The motor runs smooth. I have nothing leaking from the engine, no smoke from exhaust. I’m not overheating never. I don’t believe I have a bad head gasket

The thermostat is not closing, that is why the heater is warmer when the vehicle is not moving.

It only takes 2 to 3 miles of driving tfor the air in the cooling system to make its way to the reservior, then the coolant level will appear to be low.

Sorry to butt in again but Honda was referring to getting the coolant hot enough for the thermostat to open and circulate coolant, and then letting the coolant cool down again so as it cools, the system pulls coolant out of the reservoir to try and fill the radiator again. Don’t think I’m wrong speaking for Honda but shoot me if I am.

I’m with @Honda_Blackbird on this . . .

It has all the classic symptoms of air pockets

I apologize … by hot and cold cycles… I mean get the engine warm/hot then let it cool… it takes many hours for this to occur. Overnite is usually the preferred method.

However your Jeep doesnt have the old style overflow bottle etc… I believe all you can do is keep that plastic reservoir filled up on this vehicle… Nevermind…

The coolant circulates though the radiator and reservoir while the engine is running at operating temperature, this vehicle has a pressurized reservoir, it has an inlet and an outlet.

OK shoot me. Glad someone is trying to help the poor guy after all that work.

I had another thought though that I kinda don’t like mentioning. I wonder why the core went bad in the first place? I’m just wondering if it over-heated and blew the thing and he didn’t notice it? I guess another reason for just changing the thermostat but hope there isn’t a head gasket issue lurking in there too. Probably not but I’ll feel better when the core is supplying constant heat.