We’ve had similar conversations before but regardless of the reasonable recommendations made there is usually a retort of why that option is not selected. I have come to conclude it is mainly to stimulate discussion during a boring lock down Sunday rather than to seek solutions. But I play anyway.
A dipstick heater is not a good idea imhop. Fries the oil and not that worthy of consideration.
How about putting a block heater on a light timer? Have it kick on about two hours before the car is planned to be started and used. It won’t just be on and heating in the night when it really isn’t needed.
That should be plenty of time for the engine to be a a decent temp and the oil thin enough to flow and lubricate on startup.
Block heater seems to be a worse alternative than a heat lamp 2x4 and a sheet.
If I was a mechanic I would refuse to work on a car like this. It would end up costing more and being more of a pain for the mechanic and the owner of the car. Why use heat sink paste when you can have the heater right inside the guts of the engine where it needs to be?
People are people. The same applies to cars as it does to computers. I get people who have come up with a solution on their own that they think is such a great idea. They claim it will be “Easier and cheaper” than the traditional way of doing it. I then tell them that I can do it better for less money than the idea they came up with by doing it the traditional way. You can’t argue with a rock so it is best not to deal with this type of customer. The same person who has the time to spend several hours gluing and duct taping a $5 part back together and then expecting you to reinstall it with a guarantee is the person who will end up having the time on their hands to make your life a nightmare.
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Hospitals call any hour of the day and night.
The key fob and garage door opener could be taken upstairs to the bedroom.
Dislike how the engine revs when remote started without any load imposed.
Doubthathe dipstick heater has enough wattage. If it does, does it fry the oil?
The block heater is designed to be secured into thengine block hole.
Not pleased when the manufacturer says theater element will easily be burned out
if theat is not uniformly conducted away. Andoes not supply any heat-conductive compound witheater.
What type of block heater did you purchase, coolant or magnetic? And what is this about a theater hole? Are you at the movies?
The block heater should be fine as long as there is coolant in the engine. The same is true for electric water heaters. They will burn out mighty fast if the heat isn’t able to be uniformly conducted away. Both of these things will happen if they are run dry. Don’t leave the block heater plugged in when you have drained the coolant for a change. It will be fine. Make sure the breaker is off if you ever drain your water heater to service a valve or descale it, etc. It will be fine.
Besides the light timer, one could install a thermostat so it would only come on at a certain temp. Some of the ones for wells and heat tape or just meant to keep the well from freezing up. 40 degrees or so should be fine for an engine. Is there is possibility this car will be hot rodded from a cold start?
I am not sure what oil this car calls for. If it calls for 5W20 or 5W30, you could run 0W20 or whatever for better flow at cold temps.
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“theater” = the heater
Th.is the unit. It inserts into the hole in the aluminum block and a clip secures it in place.
KATS warns that if there is any space between the metal heater and engine block metal, a hotspot can develop and burn outhelement. So they want a conductive material filling in any air gaps.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/KAT11813?partTypeName=Engine+Heater&keywordInput=kats+cylinder+engine+block+heater
“Cartridge heater is Interchangeable with the manufacturers original equipment - the only cost effective solution available. Made of cast aluminum. Easy to install.”
“Installs in engine block core hole . No longer necessary to remove a frost plug or drain coolant. Just coat with silicone grease (not included), insert and clip into place.”
People who have not worked "On call " cannot fathom what is means, It means anytime day or night any day of the week. In my case, I had 2 hours to report to work, I only lived 15 minutes away and that included walking about a quarter mile to the dispatch office from the parking lot. I am sure Robert Gift has no amount of time to get going. I am very familiar with immersion block heaters that replace a freeze plug. Never had the slightest problem with them and they are located very low in the coolant system so if they are not immersed in coolant you have much bigger problems, They are no more likely to leak than any other freeze plug and I have no idea why you would need caulk.
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This fits into the RX350’s engine block core hole. No contact with coolant. Only metal.
Now I see they call it “silicone grease” - whatever that is.
Robert I think you are seriously confused, the part you listed is described as " Freeze Plug Type (Block Heater)" and is a replacement part for an existing block heater. " Cartridge heater is Interchangeable with the manufacturers original equipment -
So you do not have an existing block heater, or you would be using it. If I had a failed one I would do a whole new unit, not a band aid piece of stuff to save 10 bucks.
Serms a complicated way to do things. Unless you have already purchased it, I would simply buy a heater that replaces a core plug. You must have at least one core plug that is accessible.
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Not to mention the standard freeze plug block heaters I have had bring the engine up to 32 degrees then shut off. We drape the cord over the side mirror as a precaution, as many drive offs without unplugging have happened. Also to make life easier there are cold weather extension cords usually blue that remain flexible. Bought a cheapo one at a big box store, did not remain flexible, and had some dinky led bulb supposed to keep the connector flexible, my guess. USELESS! The good ones do work well.
The block heater I am used to must either not have a thermostat or are set much higher because you get instant heat from the heater. This was very important in school bus service because you needed to be on your way in 15 min and had a pre trip inspection to do and they did not adjust your punch in time for bad weather.
Thank you.
This has no threaded shaft. Only a metal clip holds it in place. No seal to stop coolant from leaking out or coolant pressure from forcing it out.
This RX350 never had a heater.
The only reason for getting one is that in emergencies the cold SUV attains 60 mph soon after start up.
The 400-watt magnetic heater worked well except when attaching it with wet slush falling on my head and clothing. The oil pan is the only place it can be attached.
There is no threaded shaft or seal on the freeze plugs in your engine either. They just tap into placfe. Because of inaccessibility in the engine compartment some replacement freeze plugs use a rubber seal with a bolt to expand it.
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Thank you. Manyears ago I.nstalled a freeze plug heater where the rubber sealed by tightened bolt.
This cartridge heater is only about 5/8-inch. Unknown if the block has a hollow cylinder protruding into the coolant or is a hole in thend of the block.
Can I even access a freeze plug in this crowded RX350 transversengine?
Just as I was abouto remove the splash cover to see what is above, a hospital called for an emergentransport of blood platelets for a hemorrhaging trauma patient.
Going 41 in a 30 mph zone, the camera of the Photo Enforcement Unit’speed van parked athe curb, flashed.
A call to a NAPA store might answer your question.