Would this be the correct part? It looks to be the same. The dealership is saying they have to reach out to other dealers to try and find it. Also, does this site look legitimate or do you know of any other sites that would be good to work with?
You can contact them, but they will likely tell you the part is discontinued. Online parts catalogs don’t show warehouse inventory, that must be verified with the manufacture (KIA).
Your dealer can contact other dealers that show this part in inventory, the other dealer may be willing to sell the part, or the part might be on hold for a customer.
Thank you, I called them and they are able to see that it is on backorder but not necessarily discontinued. So I could possibly get it in 6-8 weeks if I ordered through them. He said usually it would not let them order it if it is discontinued (although it’s possible) and he also gave me a few numbers other dealers that have it but that they may already belong to other customers orders. Wish me luck, I’m going to call around 
When the canister gets filled w/gasoline, other unwanted problems can tag along Bits of charcoal can escape the canister and clog the downstream evap system. .Suggest to be prepared, there may be more stuff needing replacement or cleaning. Ask your shop if there’s a way for them to order the parts replacement sequence to minimize the chance something that isn’t currently damaged from later being damaged. Do you know if the shop plans to replace the canister? IMO that part should probably be replaced, otherwise the bits of charcoal inside may re-clog the system.
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After a lot of back and forth with them, they say they will honor the warranty for the charcoal canister and canister close valve and they are also wanting to replace the purge valve and plate and sender assembly. Would you suggest not replacing all of these at once? I’m now wondering if the issues with the plate and sender assembly is what caused the canister to blow I’m the first place back in September. The repair cost this time was almost $3000 and they have not clarified why. There is basically a large gap. The original repair was about $1300 (which they are covering) for charcoal canister and canister close valve and now they are charging over $600 for the purge valve and plate and sender assembly. So where the other $1100 was coming from, I don’t know and they won’t tell me. I’m not sure if I should be worried about that or maybe they are thinking that we should hold off on other repairs and see how it goes . What other issues should I look out for? Thank you for your help.
All suspected contaminated parts should be replaced and lines flushed. You don’t want to replace one piece at a time, the labor for each visit would add up to much more.
I should ask if they are going to flush the lines. Are there any other parts that may be affected? I definitely don’t want this to keep happening and definitely am worried they didn’t clear enough the first time.
I expect that’s probably the cause of the whole incident. From what I can tell from @Nevada_545 's posts above, the sender ass’y contains the gadget that is designed to prevent the canister from ever getting flooded with gasoline in the first place. In earlier model years of engine designs, owners would overfill their gas tanks & experience this expensive to repair flooded-canister problem, then complain about the repair expense; so the manufactures added the flooded-canister-prevention part to their newer designs. Unfortunately, that part sometimes fails.
As far as how to proceed, the shop will likely have faced this problem before, so should have the expertise to solve it for you. Suggest to ask them provide a parts-replacement plan which mitigates future clogging problems.
Yeah, maybe we will never know for sure but it seems like it’s possible and maybe overlooked. I was able to find a dealer that has the plate and sender assembly in stock and passed along the information but I don’t know if they ordered it. Hopefully if they didn’t get it from the one I found they found it somewhere. The various people I spoke with looking into this part said it is on severe backorder. There are 90 orders waiting throughout the country. What is your opinion on how long to keep a vehicle age wise? The ordering associate I was speaking with from Kiaparts.com was saying he has definitely noticed oem parts become increasingly difficult to find once a vehicle becomes 10-15 years old.
I’m probably not the best person to ask. My two vehicles are 30 and 50 years old. More modern vehicles are considerably more complicated, so parts availability may be what limits how long the owner can keep them on the road. The other limit is the labor cost to effect repairs. DIY’ers can more easily justify keeping older cars on the road b/c the only labor expense is their time. It quickly gets too expensive if for each repair you have to pay a shop’s labor rate. For a non-diy’er, after around 10-15 years, time to let it go.
+1
I get rid of my vehicles after 11-12 years, while they are still in good condition. The next owner gets the benefit of a reliable, well-maintained vehicle, and I get to enjoy the added technology and the updated safety features.
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That’s another thing he mentioned, that much older cars can swap parts and what not. Newer cars you can’t do that so much because they are so complex and different and really should use oem for most things. I don’t mind learning about cars but no where near diyer.
I’m thinking it’s time to trade this one if I can. I don’t need a new car every other year but this one might need to move on considering it’s 12 years old and things are starting to go haywire.