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Ford fusion bad new motor

So I have a 2013 Ford Fusion (13-16 version) and I blew up the motor due to a faulty oil filter. Anyways I bought a new motor and the crank will not turn a full 360 degrees. It turns about 270 and stops. I was wondering what might be wrong with the engine. I can’t turn it enough to get the last torque converter bolt in.(got 3 out of 4). Any ideas would be appreciated!

Pistons are coming in contact with valves.


Is this an actual new motor, a used motor, or a remanufactured motor?

Have you contacted the place where you got this ( new ) motor ?

Not sure if this is applicable here, but it looks like your car might have a timing belt. Ford uses a crank locking pin to keep the engine at TDC. Its possible that the pin was installed at some point and not removed. Not likely but possible depending on where you obtained the engine from.

It’s a used motor pulled from a fusion that was rear ended. It’s got 60k on it but they uploaded a video of it running good before it was pulled. I contacted the seller and am waiting on a reply but I figured I’d ask around for more advice. If a piston is hitting a valve then how hard would that be to fix?

You have no evidence that the running engine in that video is the one you got. The fact that the engine is bad may be the reason it was in a junkyard.


It’s been my experience that about 30-35% of salvage yard units have issues ranging from minor to major. To hear yards tell it everything they sell is in “excellent condition”.

I would like to hear the story behind this alleged faulty oil filter. The only faulty filters I’ve ever seen or heard of was generic white box filters.

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It was actually a WIX filter. It was on good and tight, made a trip from Ohio to Washington DC and back plus a bunch of driving over there and everything was great. Then about 2 weeks after I came back from my vacation out there the threads blew off the filter. When I picked it up from the liner under the engine the part that was supposed to be threaded was almost smooth. No idea what happened but it eventually caused a piston to be thrown through the block. I got a pic of the damage from the piston lol.

It actually snapped the bolts off the bracket that holds the piston to the bearing and threw it through first followed by the bottom half of the rod.

There are 3 engine options for this car, only one of them uses a timing belt (1.6L turbocharged). The other engines use an internal timing chain.

If this is an engine which uses a timing chain, then it is reasonable to assume that a used engine which is sold as “running well” has a good, functional timing chain. In fact, the mere act of removing the timing cover and touching the timing chain could void the seller’s warranty.

I would remove all of the bolts connecting the crankshaft to the flex-plate, and see if the motor can be rotated by hand. If not, it is defective, and should be returned. Unless you got some screaming deal on this motor, i.e. you didn’t pay more than scrap value for it, you should return it and keep looking.

I’ll check it out tomorrow, I ordered it in from Wisconsin so I’m not sure I could send it back without paying more than I’d get back BUT it came with a 1 year warranty through square trade and they said they’d pay shipping both ways and fix it free if something was wrong with it so I may go that route if it won’t spin after I disconnect it.

To be honest this is my first experience doing a job like this and I just started learning more about cars a few weeks ago to try and save some cash. I forgot to mention earlier that it has the 2.5 in it which does indeed have the timing chain.

I had a faulty Fram
3614 that blew oil all over my driveway twice. When it did it the first time I removed it, checked for anything left on the gasket surface of the engine or filter and put it back on and it did it again. I called Fram and they saidt hey had a bad run of that number and sent me $80 for my trouble. That was about 30 years ago.

I always try turning an engine by hand before I go to any trouble installing it. Do you have all the plugs out? You’re not fighting engine compression are you? What are you using to turn it, the proper flexplate/flywheel tool?

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I thought I was fighting compression so I pulled the plugs, still won’t turn. I don’t have the proper flywheel took so I was using a breaker bar to turn it via the crankshaft.

After you’ve removed the flywheel bolts that have already been installed try to turn the crankshaft before you remove the engine. You might find that it will then turn 360*.

I can rotate my 4.0 Liter Nissan Pathfinder’s V6 with a regular 24-inch breaker bar and a socket attached on the harmonic balancer bolt, yes it would show extra force on compression cycles, but could be rotated 360 degrees with no problems. The engine has good compression.

If you can not make your engine rotate 360 degrees even with spark plugs out, it has some mechanical issue and I would not force it to avoid internal damage.

i have used a screwdriver on the flexplate teeth to rotate the it around by levering it thru the access hole. you would think it might take a long time to rotate 360 but it is not bad. yes, i would gulp if i hit a dead stop.
the mistimed vue i got did that. i took off timing belt and retimed motor and it turned 360. but it had bent valves.

Welp I pulled it again, still locking, and pulled the oil pan. When turning the crank the timing chain I can see from the bottom isn’t turning. Also it’s no longer turning 270 after sitting over night. It now only turns 90 to 120 degrees.

The engine is junk. It has major internal damage, and will need a full rebuild to ever run again. Get rid of it.

I figured it out, I pulled the crank pulley for extra clearance when putting the engine in and knocked it out of time because it’s a friction based timing system. Retimed it and worked perfectly.