This is likely a head gasket leak, and these Fords are well known for it. Please have this checked by a competent mechanic before you waste more money by “Parts Hangers”.
I’ve asked two shops now about the head gasket and they both say they don’t think that’s it. But my gut tells me that’s the problem. I guess the pressure caused by the head gasket leak could cause the reservoir to crack?
Sounds like these guys are just throwing parts at it until it’s fixed.
Yep. Take it to a different mechanic. See what they say.
Don’t go with a gut call, because if you’re wrong you’ll have spent $1500 or so and still have the problem (and can cause new problems to boot - not every shop is good at head gasket replacements).
They didn’t “think” it was a head gasket?
Fill the engine (through the radiator cap, not the reservoir) with coolant. Turn the engine on with the radiator cap off and watch for bubbles. I’ll bet you’ll see bubbling out the radiator cap. That’ll be the combustion gasses getting blown into the water jacket and migrating up to the highest point in the system, th eradiator opening.
A tech can do much more definitive tests, like checking the coolant for hydrocarbons (a “lab test”) or checking the cylinders to see if they’ll hold pressure (a “leakdown test”). To just say they don;t know what it is and not to worry about it…that ain’t right.
I agree with mountainbike (as usual) - there’s no “thinking” required.
I would note that the thermostat will probably have to open up before you see any bubbles. But a block tester is even better. If you’re not comfy with working on cars (like around hot radiators) ask a shop to do it. But I recently used a block tester from an auto parts “tool loaner” program. That plus a $6-7 bottle of test fluid will get it done without sinking more $$ into a shop.
The Freestar didn’t use the 3.8L, which was abysmal for head gasket issues… The Freestar used a 3.9L or 4.2L Essex - same family of engines, but mechanics reports don’t show widespread head gasket issues on those. Their problems were isolated towards intake manifold gaskets. The 4.2L was also used on the F-150 with similar intake manifold gasket leak issues.
An intake manifold gasket leak can lead to loss of coolant.
I would highly suspect THAT, not a headgasket issue, if this is going to be a gasket problem.
That’s a $366-459 job, according to repair pal, instead of $1368-1712 for a head gasket. BIG difference.
A good mechanic will be able to find the difference, but there’s no reason to scare the OP when the more likely problem is a fraction of the cost.
Thanks for the clarification. Let’s hope that it is just the manifold gasket.
Be sure to look under the car for dripping coolant when the engine is hot and especially when it is overheating. Sometime a car will not leak coolant when it is cold, but drips like crazy when hot. If you can find a leak, that’s good, as it means it may not be the pricey to replace head gasket.
My first guess was a clogged radiator, but it looks like the problem remains even after the radiator is replaced. Sounds like the shop is working it for you. I don’t understand how the heater is bringing the temp down but it blows cold air. That’s a puzzler. Anyway, b est of luck.
This was the first time I’d read though the thread and even before reading other comments head gasket was also my first instinct. Enough pressure to blow the reservoir cap off and crack the overflow bottle sounds like high pressure exhaust gasses getting into the cooling system. I’d go to a junk yard and buy another reservoir and put it on myself, but you need to find the root of the problem before replacing more parts.
With this issue has anyone looked at a water pump gasket / bearing problem? This can blow water at times when the engine is turning but not at static test. Also the little bit of leak gets spread around and you do not see a big leak.
Ok, here’s the update.
Took it to another shop which comes highly recommended. Talked to the owner beforehand. He looked at it with me and asked a lot of questions. He said that he would put a pressure gauge on it and run at a high rpm to see if there was an pressure buildup from the combustion gases.
He called today and says he and his tech think it’s a seeping head gasket. He said that he saw nothing else wrong that would be causing it to run hot and lose coolant. He was up front with me and said that the only way to know for sure is to break it down but it would be possible that they could get in there and not see a problem.
The labor to break it down and look is $775 and the total cost (if it’s the head gasket) will be $1200.
Well, the new mechanic called and has had the car over a week (he has a very busy shop). It was a blown head gasket and had a leak in the timing cover. He had to remove the engine completely from the car. So he replaced the head gasket, timing cover gasket, and put a new rear seal in. He’s driving it today to make sure it has no problems then I’m getting it from him this weekend (assuming all is well). He said he still had to work up the ticket but it should come around $1500.
The van isn’t even worth that…but it beats a new car payment every month. So this van now has a 2 yr old transmission, new plugs, new radiator, new reservoir, new head gasket, timing cover gasket, rear seal…So maybe we can get at least another 100,000 miles out of it.
If it ends up at ~ $1500 I’d call it a good decision. Not only will you not have a car payment, but your insurance payments also won’t ballon (nor property tax if you pay that on cars).
Thanks for the follow-up.
Agreed, if you can get 6 months out of it, your even (figure avg car payment is $300 a month)… Everything after that is just gravy…