As the old song goes, “You’ve got your troubles, I’ve got mine.”
Tester
As the old song goes, “You’ve got your troubles, I’ve got mine.”
Tester
If you only drive 170k miles then you should be fine. Timing chains last a lot longer today then they use to. I’ve had to replace a noisy chain in years past at under 200k miles.
That’s NOT true.
Dave’s garage did a teardown of the 6.2 L87 engine. Seems only the L87 is affected.
Here’s the link. It seems the major problem is the crank NOT being polished correctly. The video I posted is a good watch - about 40 minutes long.
Give me the year(s) and I will be glad to look up the labor times for doing a timing belt kit for you, but I’m not looking it up 18-20 times cause it’s been out since what 2006 except for 2 years?..
I’m not a Ridgeline guru, so not gonna guess at anything… lol
That is not true, and the Ridgeline is a unibody construction, so removing the cab would not be possible anyways. You are thinking about certain Ford Super Duty models, which actually do require removing the cab to perform certain engine repairs, such as replacing the timing chains (plural) or removing the cylinder heads. I was amazed when I saw that, because how could anyone be foolish enough to buy a vehicle designed like this?
It’s certainly easy to work on. How long does it take to lift the body off the F250?
Photo was an example found online but on the diesel trucks it’s quicker than trying to get to the timing chain with the body on. About 6hts labor added but my understanding it’s quicker and easier with open access. Repair bills on a friend’s powerstroke F250 kept us from getting our own.
Exactly, plenty of vehicles with transverse engines and even some modern RWD (DOHC) V6/V8 engine cars are much easier to just drop the subframe or for some trucks to just raise the cab to access the engine for repairs… Not much more different to raise the cab off the chassis vs drop a subframe after all said and done…
But most could (probably) still be done with the engine still in the vehicle but could be a nightmare vs just dropping the subframe or raising the cab to make access to the (rear) engine and bellhousing bolts much easier and well worth it to a lot of/most mechanics…
I think the key distinction is “does the factory procedure require cab/subframe removal??” versus “is cab/subframe removal the sane way to do it??”
I learned many decades ago, sometimes it is much easier to remove something than to work around it a lot of times…
But then again I could be way off on this subject… ![]()