Fix to the CAT to get SMOG passed?

Maintenance/Repairs
21

Scotty is like click/clack. They talk about repairs. And why you should buy a 1998 Toyota.

1 Like
22

I got some live stream data while the car was running:

At 2k rpm:

  • O2 sensor output voltage-B1S2 = 0.095 - Low?
  • O2 sensor output voltage-B1S1 = 0.210 (replaced in 2016)
  • Ignition timing advance for #1 cylinder= 33.5 BTDC - high?

At 800 rpm:

  • O2 sensor output voltage-B1S2 = 0.015 - Low?
  • O2 sensor output voltage-B1S1 = 0.115 (replaced in 2016)
  • Ignition timing advance for #1 cylinder= 15 BTDC

manifold absolute pressure sensor = 4.64

When I drive, the downstream O2 sensor fluctuate between 0.02 - 0.88 volts!

Anything obvious?

23

Just a possibility. You may be running a bit on the lean side (caused by an O2 or intake sensor or even a small vacuum leak) or higher than normal combustion chamber temperatures (caused by aggressive timing, cylinder head/piston buildup, incorrect AFR). Or you could just have a bad CAT like just about everyone has said.

1 Like
24

Spot on. So:

  1. O2 sensor
  2. vacuum leak or leak on exhaust
  3. higher than normal combustion chamber temperatures (caused by aggressive timing, cylinder head/piston buildup, incorrect AFR).

I just completed:

  1. above by following the process below - disconnected the PCV and O2 voltage stopped fluctuating and fell below 0.1 volt - I didn’t bother checking for Rich condition given its NTK part that was replaced in 2016
    https://dannysengineportal.com/o2-oxygen-sensor-function-failure-symptoms-testing
  2. I need to test - but the car idles fine. Also hole in the exhaust could also cause this
  3. Unlikely since no mods were done to the car.

Also cleaned the MAP sensor.
I found a bad PCV valve - its only 2 yrs old! Replaced it.

25

Me neither. He’s shadow banned myself (and I’m certain hundreds others) from commenting on his videos. If you’ve ever take a look a comment section on his videos it’s comprised of roughly 99% of people who don’t know any better, singing his praises. If you post something criticizing him, and I’m not saying you’re running him down like you’re channeling a mid-80’s Ric Flair promo, but more like “Scotty is incorrect here and here’s objective proof as to why I say that
” He’ll shadow-ban you at the drop of a hat. I think the guy knows he gets alot wrong and contradicts himself often., but doesn’t want to let his less-informed fan base in on it.

4 Likes
26

My Car passed SMOG well:

smog3
smog34032×3024 1.54 MB

Things that were done:

  • new reman injectors
  • new parts:
    Fuel Filter, Sparks (previous plat had 65k), Spark wires, rotor, & cap, also front O2 sensor (one shop said it looks lazy but I think it was mis-diagnosis)
  • I drove on freeway on D3 (4k rpm) for 1hr prior to the test

As you might notice, CAT was unchanged.

So what could we learn? What could we do to avoid smog failure?
Its hard for me to say what brought the NOx down. Injector was changed since it gave misfire. Plat Sparks had 65k and no issues on starting (thought they could do 90k). One spark wire had a minor issue.

Rotor/cap (44k - original was used for 100k) I do not think that there were any issues - a shop said what I see is the wear/tear - when I changed it 100k, I noticed a difference. Other than the injector, changing parts, did not give any noticeable difference. Were there any gap on my maintenance? I have taken SMOG light-heartedly and this was the first time I took it to freeway.

One meaningful repair was injector - because, there was gas smell from the exhaust - not anymore! So this could be it? Should we seriously consider replacing injectors at 130k?

Test 21-Final → 2021 (prior 2 tests)
15mph 81 → 357-> 578 (from highest 578 to 81)
25mph 44 → 1079-> 639 (from highest 1079 to 44)

The EVAP monitor is still not ready though! In California they will waive it for SMOG.

2 Likes
27

When you don’t mention pertinent information (gas smell from exhaust), you can’t expect to get helpful suggestions.

28

Yeah, I didn’t stop and think - my mistake. No one here asked me either. I will be sending engine oil sample to the lab! There might be gasoline in it.

Update:
Looking at the historical SMOG data, it looks to me injector slowly started leaking around 130k - assuming high NOx was caused by leaky injectors.

29

Stupid fuel additive like CataClean might be damaging the injectors!

30

As usual, your problem was solved by finding and fixing your actual problem (leaking fuel injectors) rather than throwing crutches and band aids at it ( cleaners and Scotty Kilmer videos.)

6 Likes
31

If one of the fuel injectors were dumping enough fuel to cause a misfire it would be obvious to any technician that there is a fuel system problem. High NOx is caused by high combustion chamber temperatures/lean mixtures.

I suspect that when the fuel filter was replaced some contaminants passed though the fuel line and clogged one of the fuel injectors, fuel injectors rarely fail and this does not seem like a coincidence.

Driving on the highway for 20 minutes in high gear would have likely cleared the catalyst enough to pass the emission test.

32
  • Last time FFilter was changed 65k miles/10yrs ago (again changed right before the last SMOG) - car ran fine all these yrs. Are u sure?
  • My gen1 injectors also failed at the same mileage - but it was external leak and so obvisous!

My SMOG #s are so low as if I put a new CAT! Emission levels are better than 10yrs ago, then it had 80k.
The 2nd failed test - I am sure I would have driven the car on freeway too but still failed.

33

Should I keep the car or sell it?
This has been the go to car (among the 3) other than the Electric car! The latter may not live long like this ICE car! We have 4 drivers and with pandemic, there seems just 1 to 2 drivers.

Or when should I consider selling it - eg 2 yrs time? Other than the Suspension, the car drives like a new car - knock the wood!

PS: A 1996 model car with 5sp/2dr and 170k was auctioned for $5k just a few days ago. Mine is 1999 and auto/4dr.

34

I think you should just keep driving the car

If you sell it, you’re probably not going to get what YOU think it’s worth, because it’s just a regular Integra, no offense intended

considering the car only has 144K, you could easily drive it several more years without breaking the bank on repairs

Please refresh my memory . . . what’s up with the suspension?

and don’t concern yourself with that 1996 Integra that was auctioned for $5k

Although it’s an Integra of the same vintage, it’s a 5spd and 2 door . . . major differences

35

Well it had aged so not what it used to be.
I can drive at 80mph and feel comfortable but I am no longer anticipating the joy of making a turn (as it has aged).
Besides, some pot holes can trigger jerks 
 vibration.

I looked it up and struts are only $60 for all 4. But there are so many other parts that would needs to be replaced when the suspension is done. I spent $400 on the gen 1 as it was very bad to the extent unsafe. This car is still safe with the existing suspension.

Type R is noisy and not for me.

36

You probably need way more than struts

I’m guessing struts all around, sway bar bushings and links front and rear, maybe even control arms

and that’s just a guess, based on my experience and the age and mileage of your car

If you were to do all that, it probably would ride like a new car

1 Like
37

I watched too many videos of Scotty. One time I found him to be wrong - people answered in the comment section as to why he got it wrong:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GHPTTrDjOc

Here is a better explanation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-542IYGBbpg

Update: Laquer Thinner
He does say its a hack - he recommends removing and cleaning the CAT.
In the comments section, hardly anyone says it didn’t work for them. There are many mechanics won’t put that stuff in their gas tank. Scotty has many years of experience.

I did get a quote for $300 to replace the CAT but I my tests clearly revealed that I never needed it! So I took a gamble and paid the SMOG guy his due. But of luck I passed, but with such a low #s.

Question on Valve adjustment:
Given my go to m/c is closed, other reputed ones are asking $350 for a valve adjustment. I paid $100, 22k miles ago. Some charge $80 to change parts (feel not needed), other wants to Carbon clean and says without Carbon clean, I will not see a difference! Comments are appreciated. I guess I have not found a mechanic for Valve adjustment!

Also, I see the engine takes lesser and lesser (engine) oil for each oil change (used to take 4qts as per spec). Perhaps there is some build up. How to get rid of them? DIY or a specific service?

38

suspension seem to be on the menu, as you mentioned it is aged
 although if I went into this trouble, I would make sure to replace every questionable component and used the good quality parts

carbon clean? why?? better spend this money on suspension :slight_smile:

1 Like
39

Thanks @thegreendrag0n

41

Integra GS-R with 160k is asking $30k!
Not Type-R!
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/desert-hot-springs-rare-acura-integra/7315393381.html