Spark plugs and brakes are to be expected
I wouldn’t get rid of a car because it needs that stuff
As for the exhaust, that can get expensive, depending on exactly what’s needed and why
Well, I did say almost certainly 
I’m just skeptical of the diagnosis, and it would be a shame to toss this car and spend a bunch of $$ on a different one if there was no real need.
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That’s totally dependent on the person. For me, it takes actual death or a repair that exceeds the value of the car. I have no fear regarding failure but some people are very risk averse. A new car is no guarantee against failure. While the risk is lower, there always the possibility that the new shoe gives you a blister whereas the old shoe fits quite well…
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I had the transmission overhauled on a car with over 300,000 miles. Big deal.
Now not to be unkind but someone said never marry someone who can’t change a tire. There is an exhaust noise but can’t simply crawl under with a flashlight to see what it is first?
Seems the techs here think $2k for a new cat is ok. El cheapo is $325. Better aftermarket is $800? With install it’s $2k?
When repair equals value of car you have to think hard.
Go to muff shop. Why is my exhaust loud?
You install parts at cost? What do you offer for parts and labor warranty?
When using inferior catalytic convertors, expect a check engine light afterwards.
I call cheap converters and AC compressors the 13 month parts, cause not long after the 12 month warranty is up, they stop working, and the cat triggers the MIL/CEL to come back on, and guess what?, you get to pay to have it all done again…
If the vehicle is in overall good shape mechanical and rust wise, then dropping $2000 is not a big concern (other that budget), you are probably not going to buy another vehicle for $2000 ($134 X 12 months) in as good of shape… Now if the vehicle is already falling apart, burning oil etc etc, then it would be wise to cut your losses and look for something else…
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I may have neglected to mention that this was coming from a state inspection. They failed it for a catalytic converter. I’m not just assuming it needs a cat just because of the sound.
No, I didn’t crawl underneath with flashlight. Not everyone has the wherewithal to do that, BTW. I guess I just trusted the shop, figuring they wouldn’t get five stars In Google reviews and rave reviews on our local Facebook forum if they had a history of being dishonest.
Holt’s Autosport Inc
Holt's Autosport Inc Merrimack - Google Search
But like I said, I will get a second opinion.
Do you mean an exhaust leak? That problem could possibly be “patched” by welding in a new length of pipe. A general repair shop would rather replace the complete pipe/catalyst assembly to avoid future problems.
A typical noisy catalytic converter rattles like rocks in a coffee can but if your car failed inspection, it seems your car has an exhaust leak.
The last time I needed to replace a catalytic converter, I bought a low-cost version, and used it long enough to pass emissions. Then I unbolted it, put it back into the box, reinstalled the old one, and stored it until the next emissions test. I repeated this every year, for several years, until the car ultimately was junked for other reasons. I understood the fact that leaving the new cat on would result in wearing it out quickly, and that I just needed to get the car through emissions as I was extremely poor.
I agree that a $2000 repair is not worth junking a car over, however I could not fathom paying that much for any repair which could be done with the tools and equipment at my disposal. In fact, the ONLY time I will pay for a professional shop to work on my vehicles is if the repair in question requires a lift, or other tools and equipment that I don’t have access to. If it can be done at home with a floor jack and jack stands, then I DIY and $ave.
Well, that is great if you are able to do it all yourself, but in fact life is not always kind to our bodies… I am only 54 and have been on FULL disability for over 2 years now, (was granted full disability in 5.5 months, 1st time out) and I have been doing this stuff for well over 30 years, I have well over $50K in tools, I can do just about anything mechanical at my house (depending on special tool(s), if I can’t work around or make it myself)…
BUT I CAN"T DO IT ANYMORE!!! lol
Luckily I have a friend with a Snap on pro level scanner and for help when needed as well as my son… If not I would have to pay a pro to do everything…
So, I am a PRO that can’t even DIY anymore for the most part… Now once the engine, rear end, transmission is on my table or engine stand, I can sit my happy but down and go to town on them… 
And then you have people that are not mechanically at all, and they should NEVER be allowed to hold a tape measure, much less use any tool in a tool box… 
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I once “joked” about doubling the value of my old Mazda6… by buying it a new set of tires. Car was 11 years old with 200k of it at the time.
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That is a federal crime and you should have been prosecuted for it. Actually, you should have been prosecuted for it each time you did the exchange. Here’s some information about catalytic converter laws and penalties for not obeying them.
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Swap out cheap cat for testing? I never would have put in that much effort. I wish you would have ran with the cheapo to see how long it lasts. Then we’d have at least 1 valid data set for discussion. Might have worked for several years. Maybe more?
I know I have gone over 100K on OEM cats.
Tires? How about a tank of gas?
I was in that position before…
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198K, 184K, 215K all on the OE cats and no CEL/MIL on when junked, totaled or sold… And I have seen company vehicles go 500K on the OE cats with no issues…
When I sold my riviera to a charity case for $50, she got a new battery, full tank, new wax, etc. all I asked was that she transfer the title, which she never did. So much for helping someone get to work. Then she let her cousin work on it and that was the end. I really liked that car.
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First thing to check is to see if the check engine light (CEL) even works. Turn the key to the on position but do not start the car. All the warning lights, including the check engine light should come on. If the CEL does not come on, then that needs to be fixed.
If the CEL does come on, but then goes out a few seconds after starting, then the cat is doing its job. The only way the inspection station can tell you that you need a new cat is if the case of the cat is rusted out or has a gaping hole in it. For this, you need a second opinion.
When you go for a second opinion, do not give out too much information. You want them to find any problems, not confirm what someone else has said. I would suggest that the first stop be at an auto parts store like AutoZone. They will do a free code scan. If any codes come up, they will generally tell you what you need, ignore that and ask them to give you the actual code I.e. P0420.
Post that code here and we can help you more. If there are no codes and you can hear exhaust noise, then an exhaust system inspection is in order. If they find something, ask to see it. If they can’t (insurance issues) let you into the work area, give them your phone and ask them to take pictures (preferably a video showing them going under your car) with your phone, you can pretty much trust that.
At that point it is a business transaction. Treat it like one. If you think the cost to repair is justified and their offer sounds reasonable, I think you should go ahead.
A lot of people think that the repair/junk decision should be made on the book value of the car. I prefer to use the cost per mile to make my decision. I have traditionally used $0.10/mile for this but I probably should adjust this for inflation as I have used this figure for about 40 years or so. Basically if a repair is going to cost $1000.00, will I get at least 10,000 miles out of the vehicle before another major repair is needed.
It would be hard to beat that with another vehicle. If you found another car for $6000.00, you would need it to go at least 60,000 miles to match that. A new car at $30,000.00 would need to last 300,000 miles to match that, which there are a lot of cars in that price range that will do that.
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Yeah that’s been my view. Used to calculate cost per mile for consumable and the fixed asset costs. Interesting how it didn’t make much difference of new or used over the long haul.
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