I think you are trying to make a science project out of this.
As the water heats up and gets hotter and hotter it expands and starts bubbling out the fill spout. Keep the radiator cap on while the engine is running. The thermostat will not open until the water is sufficiently hot. Once the thermostat opens the hot water flows through the system it will produce hot cabin air. Let the thing run for 15-20 minutes, which should be sufficient. Turn off the engine and let it cool down BEFORE you open the radiator cap to check the coolant level.
Make sure you have sufficient coolant in the overflow reservoir (if you have one). If needed, that coolant will be sucked into the radiator as the engine and coolant cools. As a matter of fact, when you open the radiator cap the level of coolant should almost be to the top of the radiator. If not add more coolant and repeat the cycle until the coolant level remains constant and the radiator completely filled.
There should be no need to put the car on ramps. As a matter of fact you want it on a somewhat level surface.
Iâve got some bad news for you. If you hadnât started the engine with the radiator drained, you wouldnât have this problem. But you did.
There is no bleed valve on this engine. BTW, if this is the 1.8L engine, the cooling capacity is 6 qts with a manual transmission or 5.9 with an automatic.
In the factory service manual for the 2006 Sentra (my son has a 2006 Sentra Spec V and a full set of manuals), the procedure is to use an adapter on the radiator where the cap goes, draw 28" of vacuum and then fill the cooling system. Guess who has the adapter? BTW, Subaru also does it this way.
Now, on the Subaru forum that I go to, they have come up with a DIY solution that seems to work. Jack up the front of the car as high as you can and put jack stands under it. The remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator only. Fill the system through the radiator hose until the level reaches the upper radiator tank. The reconnect the hose and finish filling through the radiator cap opening.
This gets almost all the air out. It will burp the last bit of air over several days into the overflow so for a week or so, check the overflow tank daily and add coolant as needed. I do not know if this will work for your Nissan but the Subaru guys swear by it on Subarus. Subarus have a flat engine so the air bubbles would be much lower.
Finally, I managed to find the Air Relief Valve and then it was very easy. I managed to pour a gallon of distilled water and the hot air is back now. So I think, I managed to get rid of all air from the system.
For future, if anyone comes looking for the same info, have attached the picture below. The valve is right in front of your eyes. Due to the various engines, the confusion began.
This is an example of why I own a Factory Service Manual for every one of my cars.
With or without a manual, as you have discovered, an amateur needs to spend some quality research time in advance of an anticipated DIY project. At least with the advent of internet it is possible to do quite a bit with no manual.
Welcome to the DIYer club. Live, learn, and move on ahead. CSA
The factory service manual doesnât show this. This is from the dealers parts manual which is not a part of the service manual. Good to know though.
BTW do you have the 1.8 or 2.5 engine. The SER models have the 2.5 and you first mentioned that the cooling system capacity is 7 qts which is what the SER Spec V has.
Good for you OP for being persistent and getting your car back on the road and purring like a kitten. Good idea to keep an eye on the dash coolant temp gauge for while. Best of luck.
Thank you everyone for all help. Finally, I followed Waterbuffâs method. Took about 12 water runs of half gallon each to remove all the old coolant (till the drain was clear). Added Peak Global Concentrate, 1 gallon over the period of 2 days (thats a little over 50%). After a month, I will again check the coolant and that should be it.
The temp gauge never went above the operating temperature. So I guess, all went well.
