Of subject a little bit but did you ever notice the ones that dump the cans in the back load different than all other trucks out there all others load from bottom to top or front to back the garbage trucks load bottom to top and back to front.
An Ohio trooper said 9 you are fine,10 you are mine. Of course in Minnesota I got stopped going 59 in a 55. Figure.
Around here if you have a couple pounds extra, it’ll turn cold and drop it a few pounds. I think it is a universal rule of nature to correct tire pressure.
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Where I live in FL 10 over the limit is the norm. Cross into Georgia, a LEO at every ramp just waiting for a FL car going 1 MPH over…
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Got a good laugh out of that one!
I remember many of those old brands but to be honest, I really didn’t pay much attention to the brand when I was younger. I bought most of my tires from the junkyard (that’s what they were called back then) and just bought the tires with the most life left in them.
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Here is another tire brand from many years ago. It should be noted that, while the Armstrong brand name still exists, the US company that made them is long gone, and nowadays Armstrong tires come from Thailand.
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I’m glad you acknowledge that you were the one spouting misinformation.
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IMO everyone notices the difference in handling for new tires compared to the worn tires they just disposed of. You don’t have to peel out on purpose to have wheel spin with well worn tires even on dry roads.
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Many years ago, I bought two snow tire retreads for $13 each.
Ironically, one of them needed 13 oz of weights to get them balanced.
They were great, especially through a Colorado mountain winter.
In college Firestone had their recap sale of four tires for $100. They were fine and almost fit my budget. Then during Christmas vacation it was two recap snow tires for $50. Maybe it was just my crowd but i think most people bought recaps for snow tires.
I always had to pay my own car expense so never really abused my equipment.
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Yes to Bing, had recap, bias ply, snow tires on my Cutlass, drove from Utah to Minnesota pulling trailer, no problems.
Remember Roy and Al advertisements, usually in comic books?
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Did that recap have an indicator of the “heaviest” side of the tire?
Usually now a colored dot. Tire would be positioned on the rim so that dot is opposite the location of the inflator valve in the rim flange.
That reduces the amount of weight needed to balance.
Buying retreads a pretty common thing in the mid-60’s, at least for folks in my neighborhood at the time. Most of the time those retread tires worked out ok, but sometimes they’d delaminate and the outer tread would fall off
Even more common was to have your cars brakes “re-lined”. Done at the local garage, same place you filled your gas tank. I presume that means the mechanic removes the shoes, and somehow installs replacement friction material on the curved shoe backing plate. No idea how they did it, presumably rivets, and maybe added glue. Not sure why that was economically feasible then, but not now.
Hate to conflict all the personal judgements but my FIL was an Engineer responsible for deconstructing competitor’s tires and his judgement was Michelin, solely because their QC was superior.
OTH, if the manufacturer’s QC is the most imprtantant deteriormator, look for “2nd Brand” tires like General, made by Continental.
Certainly not the same “cutting edge” as Conti’s but for those of us who rearly go over 100 MPH or run a Quarter Mile, quite acceptable.
I had a new set of recaps on my RR when I 1st got it and had a cap start coming apart on the front, while I was doing north of 3 digits… Had good used ones put on the next day… Never had them again, 1st and last set ever!! lol
Now that you mention it, I think that was the more common term, rather than “retread”.
Did you ever have your brakes “re-lined”?
Higher pressures than manufacturer will reduce rolling resistance. This is a fact. Higher pressures than the manufacturer will improve limit handling. This is also a fact. Lower pressures will ride better (but ride is subjective and preferential) and are adequate to carry more than GVW to keep the car safe.
The factory pressures are not just about load carrying capacity
I worked for GM as a chassis development engineer for 25 years and was an amateur race car driver for 17 years. While I did not make tires, I relied on the data shared from tire suppliers and taken data as part of my job and my hobby.
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Or aged tires that are now harder than the asphalt they roll on!
If I need to select AWD on my truck when it gets damp… it is time for new tires!
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That’s fine. I’m just not a Mibbie!
If this was 1963 instead of 2023, what pressures would you set the tires to in your Corvair sedan or coupe?