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Evaporation control canister & fuel vapor storage can leak

2002 Camry V6; 87,500 miles.

My “Check Engine” light came on and Firestone Complete Auto Care diagnosed it as an Evaporation control canister & fuel vapor storage can leak & offered to fix it for $955.00. When pressed for more information they said that it was a small leak and probably not a significant problem.

Does this make sense?

Yes, it is not a problem except for passing an emission test…Usually a new gas cap will cure this. They don’t cost $955…

If you MUST deal with this, A decent repair shop will first do a visual inspection looking for obvious problems. Then a “Smoke Test” might be in order where they pump smoke into your gas tank and watch for where it leaks out. Then they fix the leak. $955.00?? Sounds like the shop owner just bought a new boat…

A heck of a nice boat.

I agree with Caddyman. Except that unless your light has been reset and stayed off, I think you should get it looked at even if you don’t need to pass an emissions inspection. The light is your warning flag that can prevent other problems from becoming serious, and you don’t want to leave it lit.

The leak itself isn’t allowing any more hydrocarbon molecules to escape into the air than a lawnmower does in about every 4 nanoseconds.

What - exactly - was the error code? They look like “P1234”

Corporate auto “care” chains are not the best place to get good, reliable, and trustworthy service. They are great places to have stuff sold to you though - anything from blinker fluid and muffler bearings to new charcoal canisters for want of a new gas cap.

So report the code for some feedback about it and ask around among people you know for a good, local, independently owned shop.

Run far far away! My BS detector starts going off when I read these two separate parts you have listed. “Evaporation control canister & fuel vapor storage can” are both one and the same part I do believe.

In my experience, a small evap leak on a 10 year old car usually means I look for vacuum hoses that are aged and cracked. On a lot of newer cars, they use nylon vacuum lines with rubber connectors. These rubber connectors also age and split, causing minor leaks that the leak detector picks up. I’ve never seen the charcoal canister as the source of the leak except once, and that was due to accident damage to the canister. The canister is expensive. Vacuum lines and connectors are cheap.

I’d get it checked out, but unless the check engine light stays on, your engine performance or mileage are affected, or you have a smell of gasoline, I’d personally live with it if the repair bill was going to be high for a 10-year old car. Unless of course you live in a state that does emissions checks…

Thanks to everyone for their comments. I shall check out the lines and go back to the shop and have them show me the leak. I should obviously have done so in the first place.

I don’t know what the error code was.

Thanks again.


I have '00 Camry V6 at the shop now for the same problem. A year ago check engine light showed code for evap canister system. I put a new genuine Toyota gas cap on. It worked for about 1-2 months then the light came back on. Lived with it for winter while son had car away at college. Back home now and car is back at shop. They found a leaky valve in the system. Cost of part $90 plus 2 hours labor, 1 hr to diagnosis and one hour to remove and replace the part.

It is possible your cannister isn’t shot, that is the expensive part. But most folks when they see that code simply replace the canister.

Once fixed be sure to not overfill your gas tank when you gas up. Once the handle clicks off, stop adding fuel. If you’ve been the habit of topping off the tank then you might need to replace the canister.

"Once fixed be sure to not overfill your gas tank when you gas up. Once the handle clicks off, stop adding fuel. If you’ve been the habit of topping off the tank then you might need to replace the canister. "

Listen to UncleTurbo on this. IF and I mean IF you are in the habit of adding gas after the handle first clicks off, you must break this habit.

If the CEL has not been on very long, ignore it for now. Stop adding ANY gas after the handle clicks off the first time. The CEL may go off on its own as the canister dries out and this could cost you nothing, this time.

If the light doesn’t go out in a week or two, then get the actual code read and post the here. It will be something like P0406. Don’t bother with someone else’s interpretation, just give us the actual code. We can help you from there.

I will send the codes. The dealership wants $700 to replace this canister. PO446 is one code

you better start a separate thread and report vehicle make/model/year/etc…

I would start from testing it with smoke… or at the very least go with visual inspection and check evap purge valve:

I have 2000 Toyota Avalon. It is a six cylinder automatic. I just got back from the Toyota service center. These codes: P0440, P0441, P0446 = $700! I am told the evaporative canister is bad. Is there something I can do to avoid paying $700 I do not have? Thank you.


If I understand it correctly, Toyota made a decision to put a PCV purge valve directly into canister, so in some of vehicles it can not be changed separately.
Besides valve, it can be in hoses.
If you are technically inclined: research codes, get and idea on possible problem areas, go to YouTube for videos on how to identify components and test them…
if you do not have mechanical skill and/or place to work: find a good mechanic for a second opinion and possible repairs

wow! This looks way to involved for me. I appreciate the feedback. Why is this part so expensive?


Thank you very much!