If you are going to have a machine shop do all of the work, take the engine in and get an estimate for the repair/rebuild.
The engine can be installed as a complete assembly, there is no need to remove the cylinder head to replace or install a starter or wiring. The starter and wiring harness can be installed after the engine is in the car, install them before installing the center engine mount bracket.
At the beginning of the summer, I bought another engine, out of a 1991 Acclaim, which was sold as a “rebuildable core”. It was overheated enough to crack the head, and scratch up the cylinder bores, but I took off the oil pan and could not feel “play” in the bearings, so I figured at least the crankshaft was good. I only wanted the crankshaft and balance shaft assembly, anyways.
Now that my work has slowed down for the season, I have had time to separate my engine from the transmission and pull the crankshaft, and to take apart the junk engine and pull the crankshaft and balance shaft assembly. I don’t see any visible wear to any of the journals, but I also don’t plan on doing any measuring–just installing the used crankshaft with all new standard-size bearings. Hopefully, when everything is torqued down to spec, there won’t be any excess “play”, and the clearances will be “good enough” to run for many years.
Also, in terms of cleaning, I have cleaned the engine block using carburetor cleaner and paper towels, followed by compressed air to blow out particulate matter. I got rid of all the oil sludge and visible gunk, but I’m sure there is at least some debris still in there. Hopefully not too much that would be a problem.
So now, I am online looking to order the parts I need, and have some questions. First of all, bearings: would you get bi-metal (aluminum alloy) or tri-metal (copper/lead/tin)? The original bearings were either tri-metal or plated with some type of brass alloy. Second, would you replace the oil pickup tube, or is cleaning the screen with carburetor cleaner followed by compressed air sufficient? Third, would you replace the oil pump? There is a version which offers higher flow, at the standard pressure, which could be beneficial if clearances are excessive. Fourth, is it worth the effort to replace the intermediate shaft bearings, or is changing the shaft seal likely to be sufficient?
I dunno but it takes a big man to look at a project half finished, re-evaluate, and just say to heck with it. People will understand. We have all been there. Refreshing when the weight is finally lifted. Of course just my unsolicited opinion and the refund is in the mail.
I will repeat my suggestion to create an account at Allpar.com . There are folks there who those engines inside and out, and can give you great advice.
I would not separate an engine and transmission and put them back together without replacing the rear main seal on the engine and the front seal on the transmission.
It goes without saying that I’m going to replace all the seals and gaskets on the engine and transmission, and replace the old brittle motor mounts, hoses, etc.