Same here. I suppose I wouldn’t be able to tell if a canister style collapsed. But I’ve never seen one collapse on the wife’s Toyota with the cartridge style.
Thank you.
Before I wondered if the construction changed and it istill the correct filter.
The “wrong” filter appears as your filter on the right. The 9972 plasticovers both ends, like the left filter.
The wrong filter does not have any numbers which matchumbers on the box.
Naturally, as I was getting ready to go to Walmart and obtain the correct filter, an emergentransport to a hospital.
Then two moremergentrips to the same hospital.
An additional 221 miles on the used oil filter.
Oil stillooks good. Shall continue and just do an earlier oil and filter change.
Hopefullyvife’s filter, from 30k to 40k, did not have much to capture.
On the box: Protection up to 10,000 mi.
And about that collapsed filter insert; The same filter housing fits several engine options and 1 of 3 cores is used to suit the application. If a long insert is installed over a shorter core the insert will be collapsed to look like the one in the photo…
I have bought after market filter housings with the 3 cores and instructions for use
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Is there any concern about back-pressure or the pressurequired to force the oil through the filter media?
If not, I would use the largest filter possible.
(In our furnace I.nstalled two L-brackets to hold a much larger filter at an angle inside the cold aireturn plenum. Now twice the filter areallowing more airflow than the original.)
The filter must match the application. The housing fits various blocks with varying depths and the correct center must be installed along with the correct filter. When serviced properly there is only very minor pressure against the filter material and it is unlikely that the filter would ever accumulate enough trash to significantly increase the pressure.
oil filters have a by-pass valve if the filter gets so clogged that the oil wont pass through it
Well two fold comments. I was buying AC filters at Walmart and the guy told me to check inside the box because people liked to cheat and put the more expensive filters in the cheaper boxes. If you go through the self-checkout, the computer has no idea. So when I buy filters I always check inside the box for the proper filter and the condition of it such as bad gasket.
Secondly in this day and age of shortages, I have increased my supply on hand slightly, although I always carried some extra. I just changed oil on the Acura and I have six Honda filters on the shelf. Plus ten quarts of Mobil 1. That’s good for 30,000 miles. For the Pontiac, I have four AC filters on the shelf and 20 quarts of oil. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.
Yesterday, I changed oil. When I got to doing the filter, the new filter was different diameter than the old one. I double checked and i had the right filter according to the websites.
And then I remembered! The last time I was in a bit of a hurry, so I had one of those quick lube places do the oil and filter - and they apparently didn’t use the correct filter. I assume they used one that was compatible, except for the size - and cheaper!
Lesson learned!
Could have been a manufacturer change. My 84 GMC S-15 went through 3 different filter design changes for the 6 years I owned it. GM AC/Delco changed the design and the aftermarket companies followed to meet the new spec.
My personal opinion you would be fine with the oil you already put in just change the filter.
wix makes filters for Napa too!
Their Gold line is made by Wix. I think their Silver line is made by Purolator though.
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Once again, my vote is for OEM filters from the dealer. You will get the right filter for your car, only the parts guy has access to the filter boxes so no idiot customers can intentionally or accidentally switch filters, and you will always get the correct filtration and flow rate.
You CANNOT tell how good a filter does its job by simply looking at it. A cheaply made filter may perform its filtering job in a far superior manner and a well made filter may perform poorly or have other specs (flow rate, bypass valve pressure) that are not appropriate for your car. If you can’t get to the dealer in person there are MANY dealers online that will sell you the correct filter (and drain plug crush washers) at a good price, especially if you buy more than one or two at a time.
I buy plenty of high quality aftermarket parts that work great, but I stopped buying aftermarket filters years ago and I get the right filter every time for the same price as a cheap aftermarket filter (or less).
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You live in a special part of the country or you work for a dealer. Dealer oil prices (no matter the manufacturer) are easily 2-3 times the cost of good quality non dealer oil filter around here. Every once in a while I see Toyota dealers having sales on filters…still more expensive then I can buy locally. Even if you buy the OEM manufacturer filter. Most asian vehicle filters are made by Denso. And then there’s on-line. Some on-line prices are even cheaper.
And I too get the right filter every time. I open the box before I leave the store to check. Not a big deal.
Just to be argumentative, I went online and found a Toyota dealer who would ship 10 OEM filters over a thousand miles to me for less than $6 per filter, all in. Then I went online to the local auto parts store website and the cheapest Fram filter I could find for the same Toyota vehicle was $10.99 plus tax (a generous 7.5% where I live). This comes out to $11.18 per filter, or almost double the OEM.
If you are in NH (as your name would indicate), it would appear that the total cost would be the same. I ran the same comparison on my OEM Mazda filters (which my dealer gives me for free) and found the OEM filters for around $7 each, all in, shipped to my door. A cheap Carquest filter is supposedly compatible for $6.45 each locally and premium filters run $12 to $17 each.
Maybe you and I are looking at different things. Nothing I found online supports buying aftermarket over OEM filters except for stubbornness.
Filters are one thing I won’t buy on-line. Just as easy to buy locally.
I knew you would get negative replies on buying OEM.
Nothing negative about buying OEM. Just that you can get as good or better for less money.
I have bought Honda filters from the dealer and the cost was about $10 each. Then I have ordered Honda filters from a dealer on line for about $5 and buy six at a time with the 50 cent crush washers. I like having a supply on hand and works for me. I don’t begrudge the local dealer the extra carrying cost.
Now for my AC filters, I just get them at WalMart for about $5 each or so. I don’t know if that qualifies as local or not but I see no reason to buy them at the GM dealer and never have. I mentioned that I saw the same filter at AZ for over $10. Don’t know why but I’m not a big AZ fan. If I ordered them from Rock, they would be about $3 plus shipping.
I guess it just works for me. Way back KMart always had the AC products as well as the local Champion Auto. Now you sometimes need to hunt for them. There was some marketing issue I guess some years ago with AC and don’t remember. Not such a big deal anymore from when I used to change oil every month.