Dodge Van rear end overheating

You state the rear axle was rebuilt with all new parts but that doesn’t mean that it was done correctly. This is a pretty technical job and it would be easy to make a mistake.

Maybe this is due to the ring/pinion gear being set up too tightly, axles/bearings in a bind, etc.
That would be my first suspect. There are plenty of Dodges here in farm/oil field country pulling very heavy loads every day without melting anything and your van should not need a rear axle fluid cooler to operate properly.

I think OK has the answer…Putting together a differential gear-set in the field is seldom done and even less seldom is it done correctly…Many, many pitfalls. The clearances and settings must be perfect…

How to set up a rear end http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup

#4 in the fist section specifically states improper setup will cause overheating

There is also a break in procedure that requires replacing the gear oil after very short mileage. Was the break in procedure followed after the rebuild?

The shop that did the rebuild is one of the best in the Detroit area. They do excellent work so I doubt that was the problem. I too have seen lots of Dodges pulling great loads without this problem. Hard to understand. Chuck

An improper setup of something in the rear axle is the only thing in the world that I can think of that would cause this. Maybe I’m dead wrong; just pointing out the possibility.

This shop does great work as far as you know, but keep in mind that most shops don’t rebuild rear axles as it’s labor intensive, requires a few specialty tools/extreme care, and it’s generally much cheaper to just swap the axle out with one from the salvage yard.

It would be interesting to pop the rear cover and take a look though. Maybe clean the oil out and apply some Prussian Blue to the ring gear and see what happens after it’s rotated through.

I plan on checking it out. If it’s a ring/pinion whine I’ll live with it for a while. If it’s a bearing that got overheated and/or adjustment change I’ll want to have that fixed at least. Thanks, Chuck

Until this is resolved I don’t believe that you should take any trips away from home with hit. If something is wrong in the rear axle things could go downhill in a hurry; something seizing or shattering, maybe even the possibility of a fire hazard.

How do you know initially that the speed sensor is melted? Does your speedo stop working/ABS light on the dash?

I hope you don’t have a wiring issue melting this sensor.

Even though you take the work to a reputable shop, it might not be the best tech there doing your work. I’m sure it always goes back to this same mechanic when you return with the problem. He has already been paid for the job, so he has to get it right.

Talk to the shop owner, as this is an unusual problem.

The first sign of trouble while driving is the speedo and ABS lights. When I stop the rear end is usually smoking from the oil that has escaped through the hole. I’m sure it gets hot first, melts then stops. I’ve been through this several times with 3 different vans. One did have bad wiring but the others did not. I’m almost positive the problem is from towing too heavy a load for the Corporate rear end. I’m currently looking for a Dana 70 or 80 that will bolt in. But I really don’t want to just throw more money at it if this will not solve the issue. Tranny fluid smells fine, not burnt so it seems all the heat is building in the rear. I guess the 6000lb trailer plus cargo is just too much on the 9.25" rear. Chuck in NH

Three different vans, same trailer?

No the first one was a 24’ travel trailer. I started with an 87 B350 Ram van, then a 1994B350 Ram Wagon. The 94 burnt up a rear end in Florida while towing the camper. Nothing showed up until I lifted off for an exit ramp. By then the entire rear end was smoked. Dodge replaced the entire unit. That lasted less that 400 miles. On the way back north, near Jacksonville I noticed smoke around the rear end. Pulled over and found the rear end covered with oil. I waited until the next day and took it to a Dealership. The mechanic said the speed sensor was melted. Also mentioned a TSA about them leaking. There was also a wire problem so he thought it could have shorted, burned and let the oil escape. That rear end was noisy for several years but no more long towing trips and the problem did not reappear.
The latest is a 2000 B3500 Ram Wagon. We didn’t tow with it for several years. If I towed it was a open 16’ trailer with a 56 Ford on it.
Last year I bought the 24’, Vnose, Roadmaster enclosed trailer. First trip to Ohio seemed ok. On the return the gear was getting a little noisy. I had it checked this spring and the oil changed. Gear was showing a wear pattern that was causing the noise. Drove this van to Dearborn, MI last month. Around Erie, PA the speedo quit and the ABS lite went on. I pulled over and the gear was smoking. Found a garage and had the sensor replaced and oil changed. Gear was now badly worn.
In Dearborn I took the van to a highly recommended shop and had it completely rebuilt from axle bearing to axle bearing. New sensor, 85/140 synthetic gear oil and some Lucas hub oil additive.
I drove about 2 hours at 60-65MPH and the speedo quit and the ABS lights came on. Stopped and checked and the gear was hot and leaking. Found a parts store, bought and installed a new speed sensor. Drove through the night to New Hampshire with no further problems (ambient temperature?) but of course the gear is noisy again! Havn’t checked it yet but I’m hoping it just polished the gear and didn’t get any of the new bearings.
SO after reading the posts here and doing some online research it seems my best option is to look for a Dana 80 with floating axles to fit the van OR to find a van that is built to tow my kind of loads. Any recommendations? Anybody got a Dana 80 cheap? Chuck in NH

Switch horses. Get rid of the Mopar van.Buy another brand of van or truck.

One last question. Are you using the same brake actuator from vehicle to vehicle?

Actually that is probably the only constant other than the rears burning up. I have been using the same Tekonsha brake controler for all these years. Works very well with a lot of adjustment. On the last leg of the trip home I rolled the adjustment all the way off. It was also through the night so the ambient temp was better. I would like to try another trip with the adjustment off but my next trip is NH to Columbus, OH and it’s too far to get stuck again! Chuck

I hope to see a definitive answer to this problem. With the "field’ setup a tight pre-load on the pinion seems a likely cause but if oil is being tossed around by the carrier it would not seem possible for the housing to get that hot regardless of the source of the heat. I’m proud that I rarely setup a rear end. It is a tough job.

I was also hoping for a silver bullet! There are too many people towing with these vans that don’t seem to have this problem. Or do they? I was hoping a Chrysler Mechanic might weigh in with a fix, opinion or recommendation. I really want to fix this problem without buying a new vehicle. We use the old van about 5-6 thousand miles (only about 2000 miles of that is towing) a year now and plan to keep it until New England weather rots it away! Chuck

Chuck, your only constant is your brake controller, but you refuse to see the common denominator? You say after 'alot of adjustment it works well.'You play with this thing too much. Buy another brake controller and have someone adjust it for you. The silver bullet should be used on you!

Apparently my guessing at a tight pinion, wheel bearing, etc. was dead wrong. After the info about this involving several different vehicles and rear axles with a common denominator, the brake controller, I’m in agreement with oldwrench.

A lot of adjustment is for the sensitivity. Stopping the trailer without locking up the electric brakes. I will without question, replace the brake controller BUT I’m still concerned about taking to the road again for a trip to Ohio with the trailer attached. The last trip was terrible with too many repair stops along the way and way too much money spent.
With my experiences I was hoping to find a difinitive answer to the 9.25" heat problem. Guess thats not happening. So I’ll replace the brake controller, buy and extra speed sensor and some gear oil and see what happens! I’m also looking for a VAN Dana 60 or 70 rearend to do a swap. Thanks for all the comments and advice.
Plus, Oldwrench, I believe your silver bullet comment was both rude and really unnecessary. Chuck in NH and I aint no kid!

Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. If this problem gets resolved you might keep us informed as it would be educational for all of us too.