Do I need a transmission or axle?

subaru
legacy

#1

Hi there Im new here and need some help, I got a 2000 Subaru Legacy GT sedan with a 5speed transmission. This car is got 137k on it, with factory trailer hitch.(from prev owner) I know the clutch is slipping pretty bad, and there’s a little clicking sound coming from the transmission I think even when I’m coasting in nutral, after the car gets hot, when I go in to a turn(left or right) the axle clinks when the car is in gear, but if I press the clutch in pre turn then go in to the turn then it makes no noise??? That’s why I think is my axle, but my mech told me I need a new tranny. I hope some one here can help me because this is my last hope. Ps by the way Tom & Ray if you see this please please help me I’ll bring a nice home bake cake to you guys if my car can make it.


#2

The only thing going on (besides a slipping clutch) is a clicking noise when turning? If thats correct this sympton points directly to a CV joint (or the complete assembley commonly called a “half shaft” and you are calling it a “axel”).

The other things that direct me away from a transmission failure is first the mileage,way low for manual trans failure (not good having a slipping clutch though) and the fact you don’t mention any grinding or popping out of gear.


#3

First of all thank you so much for the reply.
When I’m driving the tic sound is like how kids put a playing card on the fork of the bike it vaires with speed, after 10-20 miles


#4

Sorry forget the last post this is it.
When I’m driving, the tic sound is like how kids put a playing card on the fork of the bike it vaires with speed, but at times, even in nutral,


#5

Your info that the noise occurs even in neutral makes a lot of difference. It pulls it out of the axel/cv joint ,transmission area and puts it into the engine area. You are getting a little squirely in your sympton description.

I guess you could be moving even in neutral,I took the description to be, in neutral,foot off the clutch pedal, and stopped with engine running.


#6

Is the car moving at all times when you get the noise or does it continue when you’re stopped?


#7

1)It tics only when the car is in motion, fast or slow Like coming to a stop light, coasting to a stop in nutral.
2)only after the car is hot 20-30mins of driving(not when I 1st get in) that’s when the “cv joint/half shaft” klunks When turning left and right turn fast or slow, when slow not only sound painfull you can feel the klunk.

The click is always there, the klunk only comes after the car warms up.


#8

As it warms up, the grease inside the CV joint thins out and the noise gets worse. I think you need a(t least one) CV shaft.

Please get a second opiniion from a qualified Subaru mechanic.

Have you replaced the timing belt yet? It’s time.


#9

I think the prev owner did not sure, what are the signs?


#10

This may be one of those things that will require a partial teardown to be sure of anything; which means removal of the axles.

Halfshafts can certainly develop a clicking sound that can come and go depending on the situation.
Many times this is impossible to determine without taking the axles out of the car and inspecting them on the bench. If one goes to the trouble of removing them (and with 140k miles and potential boot cracking) it’s best to replace the halfshafts anyway.

Other things that can cause a clicking sound is a problematic rear mainshaft bearing, ring gear or carrier bearing fault, or a problem in the spider gears.

All of those are internal transmission problems so this is why it is important to remove the axles and make triple-sure the fault is in the CV joints rather than ripping the transmission apart ($$$$) first.
At this point, I will at least say your mechanic has a plausible diagnosis. Whether it’s correct or not is an unknown.


#11

Got an appointment at Aamco. (from cartalk site) can I trust them? Any thing else I need to bring up? While I’m there?


#12

I’m not a fan of the AAMCO operation at all based on their reputation, their business model, and the fact that over the years I’ve known 4 or 5 of their employees on a casual basis.

If you live in or near a large metro area you might check the Yellow Pages under “drivelines” and possibly find a facility near you that specializes in CV shafts. They often do their own shaft rebuilds/installs at very competitive prices.
This would be the option I would prefer over AAMCO and they would likely be far cheaper in price.


#13

Could this be it?(driveline INC)
http://www.google.com/xhtml/search?safe=images&gl=us&defaultloc=New+York%2C+NY&channel=iss&hl=en&site=local&q=drivelines+ny&latlng=12566363100965177671&mp=1&zp&source=m&nq=Driveline+Inc&ct=res&oi=local_result&sa=X&ei=K1OGSvCrAYmntgex3dBh&cd=1&resnum=1&uipref=6


#14

My reference to driveline in the Yellow Pages meant that the word “driveline” is used as a general term and not necessarily the name of a specific company.
The driveline heading may have 1 company, half a dozen, or even none listed. Usually they will have a small ad stating they do CV shaft rebuilds, U-joints, etc.

It’s kind of like looking in the Yellow Pages under Home Improvement and finding Home Depot, Lowes, etc. listed under that heading.

A quick look in the NY area showed about 11 possibilities and it won’t hurt to give them a call for a quote before wading into an AAMCO deal.

A couple of comments about AAMCO. A long time good friend of mine lost his job some years ago and went to work for AAMCO temporarily. (about a year) He absolutely hated it because so much pressure was applied to sell the car owner everything up to and including the kitchen sink.

I also knew a couple of guys who ran a small AAMCO operation some decades back and it’s kind of comical to think of this one. Both good guys, but…
They both liked to smoke an illegal plant for starters.
One was the main transmission R and R guy. (meaning he removed and installed the transmissions in and out of the car.) This guy liked illegal substances that perked the metabolism up a lot to put it mildly.
The other was the main transmission rebuilder and he preferred illegal substances that slowed the metabolism down a lot.

You can see where this went. The R and R guy was a VHS tape on fast forward and the other was a tape running in slow motion. The transmissions did pile up on the bench. :slight_smile:


#15

“I think the prev owner did not sure, what are the signs?”

What are the signs of needing a timing belt?

The first indication is that you will hear the sound of metal colliding with metal, followed immediately by the sound of silence after your engine self-destructs. The metal on metal sound is the unwanted contact made by valves and pistons, and several valves will be bent in the process and a piston or two may be damaged also. The damage will cost ~$2,000, over and above the cost of the timing belt replacement.

So, the most important things to know are:

There is no visual or auditory indication that a timing belt will snap before it does snap.
The timing belt on this car needs to be replaced every 105k miles/7 years, whichever comes first.
If you do not know factually that the belt was replaced, it should be done, unless you relish the type of damage described above.
You need to begin reading and following the maintenance information in the booklet entitled Subaru Warranty and Maintenance Supplement.


#16

Unless you have located an AAMCO franchise that is different from all of the others, you should avoid it, along with Lee Myles, Cottman, Mr. Transmission, and all other chains of that ilk.

The reputation of AAMCO–earned over many years–is:

Customers are told that they need a transmission overhaul, even if the needed repair is minor.
Workmanship is poor.
Prices are very high.

You would be well-advised to look for an independent transmission shop that has been in business for at least 3 years. Ask around for recommendations.


#17

Yep timing belt and the water pump was done 6k ago think god.
Here’s a link to the half shaft and misc other parts I need like brke rotors, pad, cv boot etc? please let me know if this something you guys would order from? Are these parts any good?

Also about brake rotors I used to have the drilled ones on my BMW with ceramic pads it Worked well, thinking the same for this car, what do you guys think? Also the price on that?

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/?PN=5637&N=0&VN=4294967189+4294964890+4294964576&Nr=AND(universal:0)&sv=0

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-LEGACY-Sedan-00-Brake-Rotors-Ceramic-Pads-F-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5634256bd9QQitemZ370242055129QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3521wt_948


#18

Do you think drug and alcohol abuse is any more prevelant amoung auto mechanics than other professions,I really don’t think so. On the other hand we were going for beers at lunch with the Service manager and Shop foreman up until 1983, then that stuff slowly became taboo.


#19

Actually, my opinion is that I don’t think drug/alcohol abuse is more prevalent among mechanics and as a matter of fact, mechanics may be less prone to this than other professions.
I’m not referring to stopping off after work for a few cold ones, etc. as I wouldn’t consider that substance abuse. Stopping off for a few cold ones on the way to work in the morning might be!
I can only remember a couple of guys I worked with who had problems. One a work release program guy who had spent time for drugs and got caught doing it again and another who was sipping Vodka all of the time. We found out the entire bottom drawer of his tool box was full of licquor and that explained why he was sipping on soda pop or carrying a coffee cup around all of the time.

That AAMCO example was to provide a bit of a chuckle if one thinks about 2 guys working like this. They are in the minority though.


#20

I thought is was a cute story. I chuckled.

Actually, it’s the cars themselves that are using more alcohol…