I would demand that the dealer install a new engine on their dime.
If what you type is true, that means the 10 year/1000,000 mile drive train warranty is null and void. And the dealer has this on record.
So, if at sometime down the road you have an engine problem that would be normally covered under the warranty, the warranty can be denied because it’s on record that the engine was operated without oil.
The engine is damaged goods no matter what they told you. The reason for saying this is that it is a dealer screwup and warranty from Hyundai will not replace the engine for that reason. This means any and all costs associated with a new engine is going to come out of the dealer’s pocket. Thin k the dealer wants to foot this bill? Not for a second.
Odds are the guy who botched this was fired immediately and it was likely a relatively inexperienced lube tech; not a mechanic.
There is no “testing it out” short of an oil pressure test, compression test, etc; and even that is not definitive. That’s a syrupy feel good phrase meant to mollify you. Nothing more.
If it were me in your situation I would not want this vehicle as it’s going to be a major problem. Bare minimum another 2022 Kona with identical mileage and option package. Even this overheating episode could be related to the lack of motor oil incident.
It would make more sense in the grand scheme of things if the dealer sold [edit: I mean gave or sold real cheap] you an additional engine warranty. It’s already been drive for nearly a year like this with no issue. Your damaged engine may wear out at 200k miles instead of lasting to 300k. But the car may be junked at 200k for other reasons, so it would be pointless to put in a brand new engine it it’s going to the junk yeard at 200k anyway.
But you chose to drive it with no oil pressure until you could get to an exit so it’s not entirely the dealer’s fault. What would you do if your car stalled at that exact location? You would be forced to stop. Cars do stall and all drivers need to be able to handle such a situation.
If there is “some big accident”, not only are you financially responsible, but you will probably end up dead or permanently injured. I’d say that’s a pretty big problem, right?
Make notes of everything you were told with names, dates, etc., send the dealership a copy by certified mail. Same for future interactions. Also get them to document everything you do with them in writing and keep a copy. Dated notes taken at or near the time are admissible in court, and it will put the dealership on notice that you’re serious.
Your goal is to either get an equivalent replacement car or a factory have new engine installed (expect a struggle) - you have a strong argument for this as the car is so new. Second best is to have the engine torn down to parts (you should examine everything when it’s apart) and anything showing scuffing or abnormal wear, heat discoloration, etc. should be replaced - lack of lube and overheating problems could be anywhere, in block or head. If the crank or cam shaft was damaged don’t let them refinish it (case hardening can be quite shallow), replace them. Block and head should be checked for flatness and replaced if beyond some spec., otherwise milling might be okay, within limits.
A problem with either of these is your engine/drive train warranty might be affected as it’s no longer the original engine, been repaired, etc. If this is the case, insist on a comparable warranty from the dealership.
Never lose your cool with them, always be courteous, but you might need to get a lawyer involved and even take it to court. Small claims court judges often are sympathetic to such situations, but you’ll need to check their maximum damage limitations.
This once happened to a friend following an oil change (the lube jockey had left the old filter seal in place). After the car stalled the first time and he saw there was no oil, he restarted it repeatedly and drove until the engine seized completely - the car was old but they installed a used engine that worked fine.
you should be dealing with Hyundai–at the corporate level.
I would spend the money and have a law firm contact Hyundai corporate.
Speak with a lawyer about what happened, if they believe you have a legal standing, have them notify Hyundai corporate. You will get a much faster, much more serious, response.
Hyundai’s lawyers may just decide it’s simpler, cheaper, faster to just buy the car back rather than eventually losing in court.
Meeting with a lawyer could be worthwhile. The lawyer will decide whom, if anyone, to go after. In this case, it’s more likely the dealership, not so likely Hyundai corporate. The error was made by the dealer’s employee, not by Hyundai corporation.
If that’s the case, then you must never drive on any freeway like this. Because any car can break down and then you have no choice. You will likely have a car stop running at some point in your life while you’re driving it.
A lawyer is the way to go; hopefully one with experience in this type of action.
He could probably get a phone consultation at no cost…if he doesn’t have a case, then I’d trade the car in, to the same dealer, asap. Let that dealer deal with the car.
Actually, trying to trade it in might be interesting…will the dealer ignore the “ran with no oil” issue or would they try to lowball because of it. I’d ask for a verbal trade in quote, if they lowball because of the oil, then I’d ask for it in writing.
I think this came up in Car Talk years ago when the older brother had an engine overheating in his warranty covered car so he just kept driving it until the engine seized up. The company had to replace his engine then. I’d recommend you do the same.
My vote is with Tester on this in regard to a new long block being the answer since this is a 2022 model with what I assume is low miles.
The last thing you want is a used engine that may have suffered the same fate at some point.
I’ve been caught in the middle of a few car owner/salvage yard says the engine is excellent debates and the reality is that those engines should have been cubed with the rest of the car. One in particular (said to be like new) was nothing but 100% scrap metal.
The dealer will likely balk and if so it’s time to visit an attorney. There is no way a dealer will win this battle if it comes to that.
The dealer has a vested interest in telling the OP things are fine after testing. The only way of really knowing is tearing into the engine to see how much overlay is scrubbed off of the crank bearings as a first step and I kind of doubt this or any other testing was done. Maybe they dumped a bottle or 3 of Motor Honey in it. Who knows, but it happens and more so in my experience it is customers who do this to cover up a problem before trading the car in.
In this case the dealer may be comparing 10 dollars worth of oil stiffeners vs 10 grand or whatever on a new long block so guess which one they would choose? It’s self preservation…
In order to sue, there has to be damage. The overheating problem MIGHT not be related to the lack of oil. And fixing it required a new radiator - so it seems like these 2 things are not related. (side note: Was the radiator covered by warranty?)
As far as the damage due to lack of oil - we don’t have any evidence of that. The car appears to be working fine - and while I am sympathetic to the problem, proving it in court is another matter entirely.
At this point, there doesn’t appear to be anything that could be sued over - and I hope a lawyer would say that.
Discussing this with the dealership is probably not going to be fruitful. Discussing this with Corporate probably won’t be either.
So my recommendation is to live with the car until other problems show up. Document EVERYTHING!
They don’t call them “stealers” for no reason.
In any case, that thing is under warranty so you may need to contact huyndai and - if that doesn’t help - your state attorney general’s office if the stealer gives you hard time.
A couple of hours of heavy online “advertising” of both the stealer AND huyndai will help.
What I would do next is get rid of huyndai and get a Toyota because you will be facing issues regularly and when warranty runs out, you’ll be at the stealer’s mercy, a VERY expensive proposition.
Feel free to ignore.
One other thing: don’t even discuss any options (short block, used, refurbished, etc.) other than BRAND NEW ENTIRE ENGINE.
There is no way in this universe that there would not be internal damage after driving even a couple of miles with no oil. A GOOD inspector would check oil pressure, listen to the engine with a stethoscope and most definitely will confirm it. Providing it indeed was driven dry.