Dealer fees

When you “work” things out with the sales department of a dealership it usually means they played fast and loose with the financing. They “lowered” payments usually mean they have extended the payments out so many years that your car will still be “underwater” long after it qualifies for antique plates…

And to qualify for these “special financing” deals the dealership has probably shopped the “bottom” finance options (equals a higher interest rate…).

But more to the point, EVERY thing is negotiable (except taxes and licensing). That means if the dealership was so inclined, they could charge you $1.00 for the car $22,000 for everything else. Your state will still access your taxes based on the assessed value of the car, not the sale price…

The dealership could absorb the ridiculous price of the Protection Price, since they sent the car out to have this done and they probably paid on a couple of hundred to have it done. You can call around to have your “car” treated and get t quote for the same service.

The Doc Fee is what they charge you to do the paperwork that they are required to do to transfer the ownership to you. Their office staff will probably take a couple of weeks to get around to this (2 hours at $15 an hour…).

As for me, I’ve bought 2 new cars in the last couple of years. I know that car prices have jumped lately, but the theory still remains the same. You need to decide how much you are willing to spend on a car, NOT how much you are willing to pay a month. Once again, the dealer can lowerer the payments out so many years that you may never pay off the car before it wears out…

I simply told the dealership that I wanted a certain car and I was willing to pay a certain amount. I do not care what the fees are, just the bottom line. The dealership will want to know if you are financing because they can juggle the price around if they are arranging financing as they get a “service fee” (kick back) from the finance company. Tell them that it all depends on whether you can come to an agreed price and then you will listen to their finance options. No matter what they offer, you will probably be better off with a car loan from your bank or credit union.

Now, if your FICO score sucks, then much of this is off the table, and you will pretty much be at the mercy of who will finance you. Stay away from any dealership that advertises, “We Finance Everyone!”

Just to prove how negotiable dealerships are, when we bought out 2020 Honda Fit, the dealership wanted $1,200 plus for the 5-year extended warranty. I let my wife negotiate this as she feels this is about as necessary as “tits on a Bull.” It was wonderful listening to the sales rep explain each and every thing it covered and how it was necessary to have this coverage. I thought it was great because I could be like a fly on the wall as he struggled to sell my wife this coverage. He kept lowering the price and how the three levels of coverage (Silver, Gold, and Platinum) provided better coverage. When all was said and done, the Platinum Coverage was $325 if we also bought the side molding, mud flaps, and floor mats (things we already wanted…

Now, the car was not on the lot, supposedly on a truck and due in 3 days. After 7-days, We were threatening to cancel the sale; as we always do, we put a “Time is of the Essence” clause of 5-days and now they were at seven days and the car was still not on the lot. We “Negotiated” a 5-day extension with the provision that the side molding, mud flaps, and floor mats would now be Free with Free installation by the dealer. The car arrived on the 10th day and my wife loves her car, its name is “Eugene…”

Remember, no matter what car they are selling, there is another one just like it around the corner…

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