Pretty sure we are. Do you currently have an old MoPar? One last thing to include: I wouldn’t want to forget to put some lotion in the basket!
Well, actually you don’t need the ballast (series) resistor. It’s just there to cut down on point burning. In a bind just jumper it.
How about a segment on the show: “Breakdown Stories” about all of the “on the road” repairs we’ve had to make under less than ideal conditions, with less than OEM parts?
After you have some experience driving old cars it IS possible to have have some idea of which parts are more prone to failure. Better to have it with you and not need it than need it and not have it. We’re not talking complete engines and transmissions here, just a few easily replaced parts that will stop you dead if they fail, but get you on the road again after they’re swapped out.
The magic electronic toy that fixes all things (your phone) might not do you much good trying to locate a part for a 47 YEAR OLD CAR when you’re stranded out in the middle of nowhere. And there’s no guarantee that the wrecker driver you summon to your aid will fare any better either out in East Podunk.
Besides, some of us can and would rather do it ourselves rather than cry out for help as a first course of action.
Just curious: How far have you driven with a jumper wire on the ballast resistor and how long did it take before you fried your points?
Sounds like a good idea. Subtitle “Doing More with Less” or “Tales of the Cob Job”, LOL! Duct tape and mechanics wire: don’t leave home without them!
“Joseph’s point is that it’s impossible to predict what, if anything, will break down on any car that we can’t see and inspect.”
Hmm. I don’t get that from “cell phone.” A large part of this site seems to be involved precisely in predicting “what, if anything, will break down on any car that we can’t see and inspect.” I still think it was an unhelpful answer.
Spare key(s).
Just jump the resistor, better than walking.The only reason it is there is that the coil does not need a full 12V but it will tolerate it in a pinch.
Other than the parts mentioned in the show, points, hoses, belts. I would suggest putting together a part number list of everything that can be replaced on the road from u-joints to wheel bearings etc. A lot of the parts you would need are still stocked in parts stores, but they may not have a listing for a 1964 dart anymore. Oh, and a tire plug kit, and a small 12v compressor. Maybe search online for Dart or classic Dodge car clubs in the areas you will be travelling and get a contact list together.
good luck.
1990CamryWagon wrote:
Well, actually you don’t need the ballast (series) resistor. It’s just
there to cut down on point burning. In a bind just jumper it.
Not true at all. The ignition systems on those cars were designed to operate at 9 volts, not 12 volts. If they were designed to run on 12 volts, your car would not start.
Battery voltage ranges, when a car is off, are in the 12.something to 13.2 range.
When you’re operating the starter, battery voltage drops. Depending on the condition of your battery, it may drop into the 10 volt range.
In order for your car to start under the above condition (potentially only 10+ volts available during starting), the ignition system is designed to operate on 9 volts.
The ballast resistor is used to reduced the ignition system operating voltage to 9 volts when the starter isn’t operating. It is bypassed while the starter is engaged (in an attempt to deliver all available voltage to the ignition).
If you jump your ballast resistor with a jumper wire, your car will start, but you can expect your points to cook quickly.
Not to mention that replacing the ballast resistors on these old MoPars is SO easy, that jumping it is just a waste of time if you have one with you. It’s easy to get to up on the firewall, is held on with one bolt and and has two wires with simple bayonet connectors. If you know what it is and where it is, it’s LITERALLY a five minute job!