I find myself beginning to realize that my old faithful 320k mile 93 Accord wagon might not be invincible after all. Since I took it out on the mail route, it has been nickeling and diming me. I was told by one of the techs that an old model CR-V might be the trick. Does anyone know how much I should pay for a 4WD 1997-1999 CR-V? I am thinking under 5,000. Also, if you know of another car that would be easy to use on a mail route, preferably a bench seat and/or a column shift car like the CR-Vs, let me know.
I would use caution at this point. Doing the nickel and dime thing may seem expensive, but it’s something all vehicles are going to do to you. A car is just a land-locked boat. That is a bunch of miles, and it’s given a good run, though.
Depending on where you live, a 98 CR-V should run under $4K. $3800 for the LX. They say the motor is a bit weak for the size of the car, but I’ve not heard anyone complain. Seems like the used car market is much higher than everyone (read:those who think they’re authorities) seems to think it should be.
The most important thing you can do is have it thoroughly inspected, and make sure it’s in as good of a condition as possible. Then do fluid changes throughout, just to make sure it’s up to spec.
The problem with buying a 13 to 15 year old vehicle is that you are guaranteed that there will be items to replace on it, too. You know the car you have now, but how will another vehicle perform for you, and for how long? You definitely will need to replace your wagon eventually, and you should be very careful when looking for the replacement. Unless you can inspect the car yourself, expect to spend $200 or so to have a good mechanic inspect it for you.
What you have working in your favor are low speeds. These older cars are subject to rust. Try to buy from an area that ravages cars the least and typically, the fewest miles. A weak motor is not as big a concern if it’s geared down. The older CRVs were and should perform admirable. Remember the motors in the early jeep mail carriers. Weak is ok if speeds are low. Another consideration is a Suzuki Sidekick/geoTracker. They are cheap and reliable if you keep on top of the service and run them at low speeds…another weak motor low gearing design.
Parts for Suzuki products though, I have found a problem.
Didn’t the original CR-Vs have problems with burning valves?
Some of these Japanese vehicles that are sold in Australia can be converted to R/H drive with parts obtained from Australian dealerships…I have seen Subaru’s converted by Star carriers…I believe around $3000 got the job done…