The pressure for the oil filter bypass valve is an interesting concern. I am curious how you find out about the ratings on the filter. Here is why.
I have a couple Geo Metros. They call for 5W30. One day while changing oil in one of my older riding mowers I realized I didn’t have the oil filter on hand. I had just drained all the oil out and was planning to mow the yard that day. I live like 10 miles from town so didn’t want to go just for one filter. Anyway, I tried all my car oil filters and the oil filter from the Geo Metro was a perfect fit in terms of the threads and the gasket. I have used this filter as it is cheaper than buying one at a mower place and haven’t had any apparent issues.
Next, I upgrade to a new Mitsubishi Mirage that takes a different type of filter and calls for 0W20 synthetic. Then I upgrade to a Kawasaki based zero turn mower as well. The Kawasaki engine takes a different filter than the one used on the Briggs and Kohler engines so I began to look it up… I quickly realized it was the same filter as the one used on the Mirage so have been using that one. Is this a bad idea for the mowers or should I pay the premium for the filter designed for small engine use?
You have to love it when you have cars that take a lawnmower oil filter.
Someone mentioned that you want a different pressure rating for the bypass to open up depending on the oil viscosity and application. They make be the same filter in terms of the thread and gasket but are they the same in all ways or not? The charge a ton for the small engine oil filters so I just use the automotive equivalent.
I’d like to see the data on that. You can buy an oil filter that will fit on several cars with different engines and different oil viscosity. One example…my wifes 07 Lexus and my 14 Highlander. Same engine, different oil viscosity requirements (Lexus - 5w-30, Highlander - 0W-20) and both have the same filter.
And if you switch from Dino to synthetic you still need to keep the same viscosity. I’d be extremely surprised if the bypass valve would have different opening points for dino or synthetic that has the same viscosity. I also seriously doubt the different with different viscosity types is going to that wide of a range…I’d be surprised if it’s even measurable.
Think about it. How would the oil pressure change depending on whether dino or syn?? Besides, I don’t think you want the by-pass to open at all since that would mean unfiltered oil being circulated through the engine. If the by-pass is opening, maybe you should be changing oil and filter sooner.
This whole conversation is making no sense to me unless you are a salesman selling higher cost synthetic filters.
I worked for a major filter manufacturer. And the by-pass valve protects the engine from oil starvation.
During a cold start where the oil is too thick to pass thru the filter media, the by-pass valve allows oil into the engine to prevent oil starvation.
At high engine RPM’s, the filter media is incapable of passing enough oil into the engine. The by-pass valve insures the engine isn’t starved of oil at high RPM’s
When the filter media gets so restricted due to the lack of maintenance, the by-pass valve allows oil into the engine to prevent oil starvation.
I figured it wouldn’t matter much. Also, if the oil is thicker as is in the mowers, the bypass may be open a little longer as the oil warms up. I am probably overthinking this. Most of the used mowers I come across probably rarely had the oil changed until now.
Some of us have argued for years that the purpose of synthetic oil is not to extend oil changes. That was a marketing ploy because it was more expensive. If you want better lubrication or the manufacture calls for it, use synthetic but otherwise dino is fine. So here we go again with the 10K oil change issue, oil analysis, and Bob the oil guy. There is no economic benefit to synthetic except less engine wear because you are changing both at 5000, or at least I am. Oh and I use Mobil 1 in my lawn mower, snow blower, generator, etc. because its better but I change at the same frequency.
. Superior oil flow at cold temps.
. Much less prone to sludging.
. Better Viscosity.
I’ve been using full synthetic on my SUV’s for over 20 years. Mainly because of the extremely cold temps we see in White Mountains during ski season. Many times well below 0, and several times below -20. Dino oil doesn’t flow well at those temps. And during the summer we go camping 2-3 times a month. I tow a pop-up which does put a strain on the engine.
10k oil change interval may be fine for people who only keep their vehicles 150k miles. But we tend to keep our vehicles over 300k miles. There’s no hard data that says the 10k oil change interval will keep the vehicle past 300k miles - that recommended interval hasn’t been around long enough. There is plenty of hard evidence that shows changing the oil every 5k miles can easily keep an engine running well past 300k miles.
And there has been some evidence that long oil change intervals is not very good. BMW has recommended these long oil change intervals for years, and there have been cases of major sludge problems with these engines.
I’ll stick with my 5k oil change interval and keep my vehicles 300k+ miles.
I have nothing to back this up, but I won’t extend oil change intervals, because of concern about abrasive particles small enough to pass through the oil filter.
While those particles probably won’t harm sleeve bearings, which have a fixed clearance, that’s not true of cam lobe to lifter and piston ring to cylinder.
Even a high-end synthetic can’t address this issue.
I have not made the jump to synthetic, I guess it is because I have lost cars to rust rather than engine wear. Now I do not have a car that requests synthetic, But if I had one I would certainly follow manufacturer advice. So on my 03 trailblazer I typically go 5k with non synthetic, oil maintenance light never comes on and 188k miles so far, and absolutely no oil use.
