I should have been a little clearer when I said that rebooting might cost about as much as replacement. That only applies to the reman or aftermarket (Chinese) axles. An OEM axle from the manufacturer will cost way more than rebooting.
I had good luck with my Chinese made axles, but mine were sold by EMPI. I never heard anyone who had a complaint about the EMPI axles, but unfortunately, they have gone out of business.
But my original advice was to get several quotes for each option so the OP will have hard numbers to base their decision on, and I will defend that advice.
If it is an outboard boot – you know, the one closest to the wheel – that might can be rebooted without removing the axel shaft. Just remove it from the hub, remove the CV joint, clean it up, and put on a new boot is all. I’ve done it that way on my Corolla before. Saves some time. The inner boots aren’t stressed as much as the outboard boots, so they don’t need to be replaced as often.
There’s one complication to consider with this on-car version of rebooting. On my Corolla it is easy to remove the CV joint from the axle, once the axle is freed from the hub, just a circ clip to undo and it pulls off. But on some axle designs the CV joint has to be cut off with an angle grinder/cut off wheel gadget. That might be difficult to do with the axle still attached to the transmission.
When CV axles for popular model cars became available for ~$60 from every parts house in town plus a local rebuilder and correct boots were rarely in stock and priced at $30+ each I quit replacing the boots. Why waste an hour dismantling an axle and cleaning the joints when more often than not a worn ball or raceway shows up making it necessary to replace the axle. No one wants to pay for wasted effort. Least of all me.
$60 for an axleshaft is almost certainly a cheap chinese axleshaft
$30 for ONE boot kit is a little steep. I don’t know if that’s a factory boot kit or what
As I said, I get rather cheap boot kits, and have had extremely good luck
I frequently check the boots on my axleshafts, and take immediate action when they’re torn. I clean very well, and I have yet to see a worn ball or raceway
Works for me . . . on several cars over the years
No wasted effort on my part, plus I’ve saved lots of money in parts
@db4690 I agree with you completely because like you, I do the work myself. But for someone that has to rely on a mechanic, I always recommend getting several quotes for each option. I also express my opinion on each option as well. Its the opinion part that gets me into trouble sometimes.
Rebooting is not longer cost effective…new half shafts with new boots costs LESS than a reboot. However the quality issue does arise…the new boots could be made of dog poop and fail in a year
I have faced this conundrum many times…Ive rebooted…Ive re axled… New shafts is the cost effective way to go.
This brings up something that has bothered me for YEARS…boot quality. I have had an idea to make boot replacements obsolete…and it would be a reality if I just got off my arse. I have so many inventions in my head its silly. I really should pay more attention to these ideas. There are people on their own island who have had fewer inventions float thru their heads.
The Chinese axles are a problem but the rebuilts are a high quality bargain and exact fit boots are $20 and up in my neighborhhod and often don’t include workable bands and I have a band tool.
Boots around here are 22 to 25 bucks. Now factor in clamps and grease. With the proliferation of Chinese rubber it’s not worth a gamble to me.
Even the name brand companies are resorting to inferior rubber. On several occasions I’ve seen tie rod end and ball joint rubber dry rotted all to hxxx and split open within a couple of years.
In the case of the OP, they have one facility telling them the car has a leaking boot and another facility that says things are fine.
Shoot for two out of three I suppose…
@db4690 … good to hear you are still rebooting. Just curious, on your vehicles that you reboot is it possible to reboot without destroying the existing CV joint? I’ve heard tales here in some cases the only way to remove the CV joint is to cut it off.
I hear you @db4690 but the last boots I bought cost me 35 EACH…inner and outer thats over 70 bucks… The rebuilt axles price was 59 … So there went that idea. Perhaps if I didn’t buy my boots on an emergency basis I could have reduced the cost via the internet… Of course that should be true.
I hear you…Ive rebooted more times than I would like to admit. My bone of contention is with the boot material itself.
For my money…I say Rubber or Silicone Impregnated CANVAS boots would last the life of the vehicle. Something to hold together and not split at the creases like rubber does…if it had a fabric inside of it…it would stop this from happening…or at least severely delay it. Just my idea Same principle applies in the world of Duct Tape… Methinks this is the solution…to a problem nobody cares about… haha
Regarding re-booting axle shafts where the outer CV joint cannot easily be removed.
The inner joint is almost always removable. You start disassembly with that, then you reassemble it after the outer boot is finished.
OK, that makes sense, thanks. Even if the outer boot can’t be removed sans destroying it, if you remove the entire axel shaft from the car, then remove the inner CV joint, then you can slide the outer boot over the axel shaft from that end.
